We gutted our upstairs...down to studs in some areas, lathe in others.

We're putting up the old window and door trim, but some jambs are an inch from the studs, others are about a half inch.

I'm wondering if we should just rip everything down to the studs, and hang the sheetrock, and deal with the trim later.

If that's the route to go, what to put in the gap left behind the trim around the windows and doors? Some type of plaster, wood, caulk, or mud? Everything is so uneven.

We may end up with all new trim...not that it would make any difference.

I guess they didn't have to be fussy when installing doors back then...the plasterers would account for differences.

Ideas and suggestions? Thank you!
Bill

 

The advantage of getting rid of all the lath is it allows you to update the wiring and insulation. Drywall hung over lath would need to be secured to the studs - not the lath.

I'm not sure I understand about the gap. Do you mean where the jamb is shimmed to the stud? If so, you would insulate and then run your drywall up to the jamb. Or does the window jamb stick out in various measurements from the wall?

 

The window jamb sticks out in various measurements from the wall surface.

All exterior walls are open, and most interior walls are open for insulation and new wiring.

 

Are the wall studs not straight? or is the jamb not straight?

 

Ya know, after today...all of the above. Some of the "rough sawn" studs 2" X 4"...full 4 inches...are closer to the inside of the room than others. I found out today...one side of the door jamb in one of the rooms is perfect for sheetrock without the lath, but the other side of the door needs the thickness of the lathe.

I wouldn't say it's poor craftsmanship in building, but the craftsmanship laid in the hands of the plasterers to make it all work.

 

You have to remember that lumber back then wasn't the same as today. The wood was better - old growth timber, but they didn't have kilns to dry the wood nor saws and planes capable of producing board after board to the same dimensions.

You might want to either shim the drywall where needed or add a straight stud to attach the drywall.

 

I guess it makes a good excuse to buy a power planer today, eh?

 

Do we need an excuse to buy a new toy....ah..er... tool

 

Well, it wasn't received all that well to begin with...until I used it... all overthe walls. Then it was worth the $108. Pretty slick hand tool.

Ya know, the whole thing is crazy...the studs have to be flat before the electrical boxes go in. If the sheetrock crew tries to change anything, the outlets will be goofy.

How flat do the studs have to be so's not to notice any "bulges" or depressions in the wall? I've got everything close to a quarter inch...from what I can tell...

 

I wouldn't want more than a 1/4" but it will likely be ok. If you hang the rock horizontally the length of the drywall will help to minimize any discrepancies.

 

I agree with mark hang your drywall on the long and try to use longer sheets and stagger vertical joints. I know 10 or 12's are hard to manuver but it is well worth it.

 

I have been using these on several projects where the walls present problems for rockers. They cost a little more, but make receptacle and switch installation and adjustment foolproof. Adjustable Zip Boxes
I remodeled an 1850 log home and know the problems you are running into.

 

Sure...NOW you tell me! All the boxes are in...some are shimmed with lath, others aren't...I think it'll work out. I'm not sure if 12's will get up the stairs or not...do they make 1/2" polystyrene 4 X 12 that we could use for practice???

 

Any windows large enough for a full sheet.
I dont know where you are located but most any supply house has a boom truck for rock delivery.
Here in eastern PA Trevdan building supply will drop and scatter rock (unload and place in individual rooms) for orders over 50 sheets its free if not its 50 bucks additional. Well worth it.
Since your down to stud pop a window out and replace after delivery.
I usually have all the supplies for a second or third floor delivery ready so when the boom truck does come throw the driver some cash and he'll be happy to boom a tub, toilet, insulation, buckets of mud etc.. Saves the back and time.

 

Congratulations on restoration of an old home. Make sure you get all the proper permits from the local building inspector. Wiring and plumbing will most definitely have to be inspected.