MobileHome Ceiling Replacement
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Repairing smoke and fire damage in a 1970 mobilehome and have removed all of the original panel and tile ceiling. The lightweight trusses will not be able to hold drywall but I want the look of conventional construction and texture. I thought about using 1" polystyrene board w/ tape, compound surface treatment, and then texture...it will be light and will insullate to a degree but I'm concerned about flamablility.
Any other suggestions or concerns?

#2
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Welcome to the forums!
What I do, is reinforce the MH "truss" and then hang 1/2" drywall. About the best way I've found to do this is to use a 1x4 [nip the ends] and nail it to the MH truss. This will stiffen the truss enough for it to support the drywall. I've tried using 2xs but they are both difficult to get in place and hard to secure to the walls.
What I do, is reinforce the MH "truss" and then hang 1/2" drywall. About the best way I've found to do this is to use a 1x4 [nip the ends] and nail it to the MH truss. This will stiffen the truss enough for it to support the drywall. I've tried using 2xs but they are both difficult to get in place and hard to secure to the walls.
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Are you talking about running the 1x4 on its' edge and nailing it along side the MH truss or on its' edge under the truss...you mentioned nailing it to the wall so I imagine you mean the latter. Besides, the other way would run into the stays that tie all of the MH trusses together.
#5
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I install the 1x on edge and nail it to the side of the MH truss. The ends need to be cut down so they will fit in the space between the top plate and the metal roof. By securing the 1x to the truss, there is no need to secure it to the wall. The 1x attached to the truss, stiffens it enough so it can support the added weight and not sag.
As long as the exterior wall and the flooring directly under it is in good shape, there should be no issues with the extra weight.
As long as the exterior wall and the flooring directly under it is in good shape, there should be no issues with the extra weight.
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That makes more sense. Laying flat is not going to stiffen them up much...HOWEVER, if that is the case then the old 1x supports running lengthwise and perpendicular to the trusses would have to be taken out. You got me thinking about stiffening up the MH trusses and this is what I came up with last night: it is a very simple and low-cost solution. It utilizes the inexpensive metal strapping used on water heaters that will run alternately 3' o.c. (approx.) thru the rows of trusses creating a suspension bridge taking advantage of the inherent strength of the convex roof. We can take it up a notch with a 1x4 attached to the underside of the MH truss and screwed in place to add some stiffening to it. What do you think of that idea???... The longitudinal supports can remain in place that way.
#7
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"if that is the case then the old 1x supports running lengthwise and perpendicular to the trusses would have to be taken out"
I'm not sure I follow
Could you supply a pic using a free site like Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
The older MHs that I've removed ceilings in all had a truss system consisting of 1x2s laid flat - 1 for the ceiling to attach to and the other would be bowwed and support the roof. Scrap pieces of paneling was used as gussets to tie the truss together. Nothing conne cted the truss to the next one except the cellutex ceiling on the bottom and the metal roof on the top. Of course each truss was stapled or screwed to the top plate on each end.
The ceiling and the roof are ultimately supported by the walls. I don't know if you have been up on your roof but MH metal roofs are always kind of filmsy. I'm not sure your proposed method would give enough strenght but I may not fully grasp your plan.
I'm not sure I follow

Could you supply a pic using a free site like Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
The older MHs that I've removed ceilings in all had a truss system consisting of 1x2s laid flat - 1 for the ceiling to attach to and the other would be bowwed and support the roof. Scrap pieces of paneling was used as gussets to tie the truss together. Nothing conne cted the truss to the next one except the cellutex ceiling on the bottom and the metal roof on the top. Of course each truss was stapled or screwed to the top plate on each end.
The ceiling and the roof are ultimately supported by the walls. I don't know if you have been up on your roof but MH metal roofs are always kind of filmsy. I'm not sure your proposed method would give enough strenght but I may not fully grasp your plan.