Drywall a banister and staircase (pics)
#1
08-11-09, 10:44 AM
Drywall a banister and staircase (pics)
This is my current banister and staircase...
the wood is pretty chipped and scratched bad in some areas and im actually just not a big fan of it. Im planning on reduing this entire room plus the loft area next month and wanting to change this banister over.
I'm looking to change it over into something like this:
My plan is to even out the railing with wood and then screw dry wall into it. But im not sure on how to go about doing the rounding from the sides onto the top.
Also the ceiling in that room is a popcorn ceiling that i plan to remove. The house was built in 1978, how much concern do you think there is for asbestos?
the wood is pretty chipped and scratched bad in some areas and im actually just not a big fan of it. Im planning on reduing this entire room plus the loft area next month and wanting to change this banister over.
I'm looking to change it over into something like this:
My plan is to even out the railing with wood and then screw dry wall into it. But im not sure on how to go about doing the rounding from the sides onto the top.
Also the ceiling in that room is a popcorn ceiling that i plan to remove. The house was built in 1978, how much concern do you think there is for asbestos?
#2
08-12-09, 03:19 PM
The rounded corners you see are called bull nose corner bead. You put it on like regular corner bead being sure to line the edges up then coat it with spackle. Do not know about the asbestos.
Bill
Bill
#4
08-14-09, 01:27 PM
Have the texture tested. Asbestos was banned in the late 70's but existing stock was allowed to be used up.
I don't know how well the drywall will work over the existing railing. You may need to tear it down and install a short stud wall to drywall over........ but I'm a painter, not a carpenter so......
btw - welcome to the forums!
I don't know how well the drywall will work over the existing railing. You may need to tear it down and install a short stud wall to drywall over........ but I'm a painter, not a carpenter so......
btw - welcome to the forums!
#5
08-17-09, 07:32 AM
Alright will definitely get the ceiling tested then.
Hmm i might be able to use some kind of combonation with a stud, but that definitely gave me an 'idea' on how im going to do another part of the job
thanks for the help and the welcome!
Hmm i might be able to use some kind of combonation with a stud, but that definitely gave me an 'idea' on how im going to do another part of the job
thanks for the help and the welcome!
#8
10-28-09, 03:28 PM
The only problem I see that may be: Handrails may project into the stairway 4-1/2" if 36" wide. Min. stair and landing width 36"[clear 31-1/2" if 1 rail, 27" if 2 rails]. IRC. 311.5.1
So if the builder built to 36" minus your wall- 4" = 32" minus the new handrail you need, inside the wall not on top, 32- 4= 28" net to drywall but code requires 31-1/2", you may have to redo when time to sell.
Be safe, Gary
So if the builder built to 36" minus your wall- 4" = 32" minus the new handrail you need, inside the wall not on top, 32- 4= 28" net to drywall but code requires 31-1/2", you may have to redo when time to sell.
Be safe, Gary
#9
11-01-09, 02:54 PM
Originally Posted by marksr
Looks good 
so did you tear out and reframe? or were you able to drywall over the existing railing?
so did you tear out and reframe? or were you able to drywall over the existing railing?
Originally Posted by GBR in WA
The only problem I see that may be: Handrails may project into the stairway 4-1/2" if 36" wide. Min. stair and landing width 36"[clear 31-1/2" if 1 rail, 27" if 2 rails]. IRC. 311.5.1
So if the builder built to 36" minus your wall- 4" = 32" minus the new handrail you need, inside the wall not on top, 32- 4= 28" net to drywall but code requires 31-1/2", you may have to redo when time to sell.
Be safe, Gary
So if the builder built to 36" minus your wall- 4" = 32" minus the new handrail you need, inside the wall not on top, 32- 4= 28" net to drywall but code requires 31-1/2", you may have to redo when time to sell.
Be safe, Gary
