filling in drywall cracks
#1
filling in drywall cracks
Ok, I had a professional come in to raise my bathroom ceiling 6". I can tape & bed so I told him to just put up the drywall. The edges are uneven and there are large cracks (1/4 - 1/2") between joints and edges. Is it better to sand down the uneven edges? And what is better to fill in the gaps - caulk or pieces of drywall glued in? Or should I just tape it and try to compensate with layers of mud.
#2
Forum Topic Moderator
You should be able to prefill those areas - apply mud, let it dry before the tape and bed coat. If you feel that a gap is too big, insert a thin piece of drywall. 1/4" gaps are fine - I'd rather have a little gap than 2 pieces forced tightly together.
It's rarely a good idea to sand or shave down drywall. There are problems associated with applying j/c over exposed gypsum. Can you elaborate on these areas? Is it where a factory beveled edge and a cut edge are mated together? Where are these areas?
It's rarely a good idea to sand or shave down drywall. There are problems associated with applying j/c over exposed gypsum. Can you elaborate on these areas? Is it where a factory beveled edge and a cut edge are mated together? Where are these areas?
#3
It is a coffered type and I would like the corners and edges to be sharp and square. So you think i can just build it out where I need to to make it square, fill in any gaps and then put on my tape and mud over that?
Well I decided to just go ahead and try so I went and thinned out the JC and filled in gaps and smoothing it with a knife. It is looking good although I'll prob need to add another coat and do a good amount of sanding before I can tape. thanks!

Well I decided to just go ahead and try so I went and thinned out the JC and filled in gaps and smoothing it with a knife. It is looking good although I'll prob need to add another coat and do a good amount of sanding before I can tape. thanks!
Last edited by RoxieCs; 08-31-09 at 04:25 PM. Reason: added comment after post
#4
Yes it is where the two pieces come together a cut edge placed over a finished piece. From the ceiling the side drops down then goes back towards the lower (old) ceiling. Kind of like a Z with the center straight if that makes any sense at all.
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
I'm not sure about the Z
It sounds like a factory beveled edge and cut edge were hung together. Not the best senario but it happens. he might have been trying to minimize waste. Anyway, if you prefill the low side it should tape fine.You might have to feather out the final coat a little farther - depending on how the joint can be viewed.
It sounds like a factory beveled edge and cut edge were hung together. Not the best senario but it happens. he might have been trying to minimize waste. Anyway, if you prefill the low side it should tape fine.You might have to feather out the final coat a little farther - depending on how the joint can be viewed.
#7
Forum Topic Moderator
Regular ready mix joint compound will crack if it's applied too thick in one application. You can either apply multiple coats or use a settting compound like durabond to prevent cracking. From what little I can tell from the pic - there shouldn't be any problems.
There are a lot of failures associated with the 'sticky' tape you are using. Paper tape has a better track record. If you use 'sticky' tape it's best to use a setting compound over top of it. The setting compound dries harder and helps to keep the 'sticky' tape stuck to the drywall.
The outside corner where your tray ceiling starts should have corner bead installed.
There are a lot of failures associated with the 'sticky' tape you are using. Paper tape has a better track record. If you use 'sticky' tape it's best to use a setting compound over top of it. The setting compound dries harder and helps to keep the 'sticky' tape stuck to the drywall.
The outside corner where your tray ceiling starts should have corner bead installed.