Ceiling drywall damage and mold help needed
#1
09-22-09, 01:36 PM
Ceiling drywall damage and mold help needed
Due to job loss and catching up with debt, we lived with a bad roof and buckets for about 3 years. We have finally repaired our roof and stopped the leaks but the ceiling is a mess. We don't really have the money to have it professionally done. Please take a look at the pics and let me know if its something I can tackle on my own. I'm concerned about mold and what is hiding under all the damaged drywall. What would you do if you were in my shoes? Save up for a pro. Have a mold inspection first or just tackle the job?
We have damage of some sort in just about every room. From slight seam separation to sagging and mildew/mold. The above picture is one of the worst cases but in the garage we have even worse damage. We live in New Mexico where flat roofs are common. Pools of water would sit on the roof for days.
We have damage of some sort in just about every room. From slight seam separation to sagging and mildew/mold. The above picture is one of the worst cases but in the garage we have even worse damage. We live in New Mexico where flat roofs are common. Pools of water would sit on the roof for days.
#2
09-22-09, 02:07 PM
I guess flat roof means no attic to look at the other side of the drywall.
If the drywall is spongy it should be cut out and replaced. It's hard to know if or how much mold is on the reverse side without looking at it. If the drywall is solid, you can use a stain hiding solvent base primer and then repaint with latex.
Where the drywall tape is loose, it would be best to bite the bullet and pull off all/any loose tape and then retape and finish those areas. I couldn't tell from the pic - are the ceilings textured? light popcorn?
If the drywall is spongy it should be cut out and replaced. It's hard to know if or how much mold is on the reverse side without looking at it. If the drywall is solid, you can use a stain hiding solvent base primer and then repaint with latex.
Where the drywall tape is loose, it would be best to bite the bullet and pull off all/any loose tape and then retape and finish those areas. I couldn't tell from the pic - are the ceilings textured? light popcorn?
#3
09-22-09, 02:23 PM
No attic. The ceiling has a light popcorn texture that is peeling off. I hate the popcorn texture and wanted to scrape it anyways.
In the picture above, the ceiling is bulged/sagging down in that area. The drywall has dried hard and is not spongy so I guess I could try cutting it out?
I have a small child with allergies -is there any precaution I should take before cutting out the sagging drywall? I was thinking of hanging plastic sheeting on the walls and flooring, sealing off the room, opening the windows and wearing breathing mask and eye wear? I'm a bit of a germaphobe so I could be overreacting?
In the picture above, the ceiling is bulged/sagging down in that area. The drywall has dried hard and is not spongy so I guess I could try cutting it out?
I have a small child with allergies -is there any precaution I should take before cutting out the sagging drywall? I was thinking of hanging plastic sheeting on the walls and flooring, sealing off the room, opening the windows and wearing breathing mask and eye wear? I'm a bit of a germaphobe so I could be overreacting?
#4
09-22-09, 02:34 PM
You are taking prudent precautions.
Just a thought. Are any of the other damaged areas around an airconditioning or heating vent. Do you get cool air from these vents? Could your problem be condensation from the A/c?
At any rate if you cut this out check and make sure there are no leaks from the ducts.
Just a thought. Are any of the other damaged areas around an airconditioning or heating vent. Do you get cool air from these vents? Could your problem be condensation from the A/c?
At any rate if you cut this out check and make sure there are no leaks from the ducts.
#5
09-22-09, 04:33 PM
We've had the air conditioner going all summer and no leaks. However, I'll take a look at that when I cut open the ceiling. SO is it safe for me to take the precautions I mentioned (plastic sheeting, sealing off, open windows etc) and tackle this project myself with no testing or inspection done?
#6
09-22-09, 05:21 PM
How old is the house?
There could be asbestos in the texture and joint compound. I forget the cut off date. If the house was built in the 80's you should be safe though any material that had asbestos could still be used up after the cut off date.
Are you concerned more about mold or asbestos?
Yes there is mold. You can count on it.
If you have it tested and it has mold what will you do?
If you have it tested and it has asbestos what will you do?
There could be asbestos in the texture and joint compound. I forget the cut off date. If the house was built in the 80's you should be safe though any material that had asbestos could still be used up after the cut off date.
Are you concerned more about mold or asbestos?
Yes there is mold. You can count on it.
If you have it tested and it has mold what will you do?
If you have it tested and it has asbestos what will you do?
#7
09-22-09, 05:33 PM
Well, the house is at least 30 years old. We have had floor tile test done in the past that came back positive for asbestos so the popcorn could contain asbestos. I guess I could test for asbestos and toxic mold. If the test come back positive then I have absolutely no clue what I would do at that point. Asbestos and toxic mold is not something I'd want to tackle.
Just looking for some guidance.
Thanks!
Just looking for some guidance.
Thanks!
#8
09-23-09, 03:37 AM
Asbestos texture was banned in the late 70's although existing stock was allowed to be used up. Asbestos is mainly dangerous in it's dry form where it can be inhaled 
As long as it's keep wet while removing and contained so none is left out to dry - there isn't a big danger.
As long as it's keep wet while removing and contained so none is left out to dry - there isn't a big danger.
