I would like to place a vent through a wall from a closet into an entry way. Trying to help the air circulate through the closet to keep it 'fresh'.

The wall is just empty between two layers of sheetrock. Can I just cut an appropriate hole and screw a vent grill onto the sheetrock? Does it matter if the entire width and height of the cavity in the wall remains open to the vent, or should I try to restrict the opening to the size of the grill?

To make that second question clearer, if I have a 4 x 8 inch grill, should I block off a box in the interior of the wall to match that size, or is it ok if the space in the wall goes all 16 inches from stud to stud and from floor to ceiling?

Thanks.

 

if you leave the cavity 'open' at the top,you can loose 'conditioned' air to the attic.

 

In modern construction the stud plates seal the cavity unless there is wiring or plumbing.

 

One suggestion...mount one vent high up on the wall (near the top), then you can seal any penetrations (if present) though the top plate into the void or attic above. Expanding foam or caulk for sealing.

Mounting one high and one low will also help draw air from one area to the other by natural convection.

 

The wall is on my first level with the second level being cooled. It is an interior wall with no plumbing. There is a wire mucking about.

So, no need to worry about sealing anything, right?

Just for my information, what would I use to seal the top of the wall?

Thanks for the tip about placing the grills at different heights in the wall. The one on the inside of the closet can be put higher since it won't be seen by the casual visitor. (Never mind who might have to go hiding in the closet!)

I actually realize that I could put another vent at the back of the closet into a "built in cabinet" I am framing as part of my renovations to act as my entertainment center. (Cable box, surround sound receiver, etc.) I am planning on installing shutter doors on the cabinet to allow for air flow to keep the various electronics from getting too hot. I could also offset the heights of these vents since both vents would be 'concealed'.

No obvious problem with following that plan, is there? (I am imaging creating a wind tunnel strong enough to test my cars aerodynamic design.)

Thanks for all your help.

 

If there is a penetration in the top plate..you should seal it. Use something like "great stuff" foam for any holes for wires. Caulk would also work, but would be kind of a pain to get the gun in the wall.

Oh..heres a trick for working with the foam..instead of trying to get the can with its short little nozzle into a confined area...extend the nozzle with straws taped together and onto the nozzle. Then you can easily guide the length of straw into a small area and keep the can right in your hand.

 

The only other concern I can see is when you connect two rooms other than a closet. You will create a sound path that might be a problem.

Bud

 

Some local codes require that any holes in framing that pass between floors must be sealed with a firestop rated caulking.

 

Wayne...he's not making a new hole...so if it was required when it was built..then it would have been done. And since there is the void between the floors..not much he could do about the upper floor..right? This was more for heating and cooling purposes.

Believe me..I know all about the sealing between floors. The Navy was doing it 40 yrs ago...I packed in more Monkey Doo than I care to remember in the stuffing tubes between decks...lol

 

Gunguy - I've packed my share of monkey stuff too. We didn't call it "doo" though. My local inspector requires any holes uncovered during renovation be sealed with firestop. I found that out when I redid a bath.