Anchoring a top plate of partition to a plaster/lath ceiling
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Anchoring a top plate of partition to a plaster/lath ceiling
My office is in an old building with plaster/lath walls and ceilings. I want to place a partition in one of the rooms. The ceiling joists run parallel to the direction where I want to put up my new partition. The location where I want to put the partition does not line up along one of the joists. What is the proper way to anchor the top plate of the partition to the ceiling?
In the past, I've done framing with metal studs, so I thought I would do the same here. I will probably be using 5/8" sheetrock because I want to minimize sound transfer between the main room and the one that is getting partitioned.
Thanks in advance.
In the past, I've done framing with metal studs, so I thought I would do the same here. I will probably be using 5/8" sheetrock because I want to minimize sound transfer between the main room and the one that is getting partitioned.
Thanks in advance.
#2
If it is wooden lath slats, then your chance of hitting wood is pretty good. Since such fastening only concerns itself with lateral sway of the wall, You would probably be fine screwing your top plate into the plaster and on into the wooden lath in a number of locations. Your studs can be fitted snugly into the channel and fastened. Now, ideally if you had access to the area above this, you could install perlins across your ceiling joists, flat in the joist bay and attach your top plate into it (after the plaster and lath).
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You could use some toggle anchors it you want. Try some construction adhesive when you screw the plate to the ceiling. It will not only hold the wall, but will also help some with sound transfer. Every little bit helps... If you really want to cut noise. Insulate the wall and apply a double layer of wall board.
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In answer to your question, if you have access to the loft area above fix timbers at right angles to your joists above where you want your new stud partition,this will give you points to securely fix your new wall.... failing that you could always just screw your top track ("C" channel) for your stud wall direct into the plaster/lathe but angle the screws in at 45 degrees use 2 screws going in opposite directions ..the easiest way to do this is to screw into the fold of the "C" channel . Do this at roughly ever 600mm , you'll be surprised how well it holds... As far as sound transfer goes i would recommend using a mineral/glass fibre Bate (UK product is Rockwool RW45) you fit it between your uprights ,use a wood saw to cut it. Fit it as snuggly as posibble and this will give you an excellent acoustic values with little expensive.. I hope this helps ....should you need any further help send a private message ...as i would be more than willing to explain it further via email if necessary.. P.S. this is my area of expertise ,i have worked for 12 years on new builds and refurbs...
#5
Gaetanol's project is probably done. But now I'm simply curious as to what you mean. B.O.M.T.I.C.C., about a top track C-channel. ??? Some kind of English method? Ah, wait? You thinking metal studwork?
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Thanks for all replies. Actually, I haven't yet started on the project.
The room I'm partitioning is for a treatment room (I am a physical therapist), so minimizing sound transfer is critical.
I thought I would use different sets of framing for the inside part versus the outside part of the wall. Each set of framing would be 2X3 or 2x2, with a small gap in between each side of the wall. Then, I'd fill between the studs with some type of sound dampener (I'll look into the one recommended by B.O.M.T.I.C.C. to see if it's available in the States), and also fill the gap between each side of the wall.
I'm happy to receive feedback on my plan.
The room I'm partitioning is for a treatment room (I am a physical therapist), so minimizing sound transfer is critical.
I thought I would use different sets of framing for the inside part versus the outside part of the wall. Each set of framing would be 2X3 or 2x2, with a small gap in between each side of the wall. Then, I'd fill between the studs with some type of sound dampener (I'll look into the one recommended by B.O.M.T.I.C.C. to see if it's available in the States), and also fill the gap between each side of the wall.
I'm happy to receive feedback on my plan.