Double Drywall Ceiling. Yes Or No?

Hi all,

this is my first post. Searched the subject but I didn't really find my answer.

Here is my situation:

Living room = 14 feet x 22.5 feet. There were decorative timber beams fitted originally and I have removed them. So there are now 4 strips about 6 inches wide of unpainted drywall with paint build up where the edges of the beams were.

There are also ceiling cans fitted which I want to replace - the current ones are way too big for my taste.

A leaking shower has caused damage in one corner, and I have to remove a section of around 4 feet x 4 feet.

With the work required to fix the paint lines and the water damage, as well as figuring out how to reduce the ceiling light holes, my question is this:

Will it work if I patch the water damage hole, then fit new drywall straight onto the existing ceiling? This would save me removing the existing drywall and give me the added advantage of better soundproofing. Good when the tv is on and the kids are asleep!

Is there any reason why I shouldn't go this route?

Thanks in advance!!!

Hugh

 

Can you patch in the drywall and make repairs? Sure, but the end result will depend how good of a taper you are.

Another layer of 5/8 drywall will not do much for sound. If you are looking to do that, adding insulation would give you better results. If you do add insulation be sure to use IC rated cans.

 

If it were me and I was working by myself I would do the repairs. It will be less work and less money. But if you want to cover it up with another layer of rock, go for it. Shouldn't be anything in your way. Another thought, the walls. If you put a new ceiling up then you will have to repaint the walls too because you will have to tape the angles.

 

Ah, I should have said, I intend to put up crown molding, so I am not worried about the wall/ceiling joints. The walls will then be painted in any case, this is a new house for me and everything is being changed.

I have to fix either joints in the new drywall OR the marks, nail holes etc left by the removed timber beams. The existing marks require a lot of sanding and filling. I think I see the new tapered drywall joints as being the easier fix.

Does that make sense?

Thanks for the replies.

Hugh

 

I have two concerns. Be sure to fill in the hole where the leak was. This does not have to be pretty but you want to keep a nice flat ceiling to screw new drywall to.

But do you want to add the extra load to your joists? Someone who knows more about it than I can tell you if the 14' span will support the additional weight of drywall.

 

Hi,

yes, I was intending repairing the existing ceiling, just not mudding the joints. But the weight issue is a good point. I suppose I would be concerned if my joists would not support 2 layers of drywall, but it's still a thought. The house was built in the early seventies.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks.

Hugh

 

When I scraped the popcorn off of my living room ceiling, The end result was, well flatter, but lotsa powdery residue that prohibited a good paint job. So I decided to put up 1/4 inch dry wall.
The only problem I encountered was that I basically had very little framing to fasten the perimeter edges to. A ceiling is always drywalled first so that fasteners can be finger spaced away from the drywalls edges and the drywall on the wall can add perimeter support to the edges on the ceiling. So with a full panel fully secured up, I noticed that securing the perimeter edges of the added drywall were going to be a problem, because the walls were already sheeted, and if not right away, then soon. Attic access along an outside wall prevented me from adding blocking between the joists.

To solve the issue I screwed narrow 1"x ~whatever solid board along the perimeter of the room to act as supporting cleats, nailed lengths of inverted base board underneath along the wall, and filled in the center with cheaper corner molding. The cornices are under the cleats and are there because I didn't want to be making miter cuts x3. Only the cleats are supportive.

The edge support thing is only a consideration. I don't know if you'll have the same issue. Hope not.

Pardon my cobwebs.

 

The added weight is about 3# per square foot, if you were to plaster and lath the ceiling, about 8# more. Not to worry, but if you are, here is a site for span: http://www.colonie.org/forms/building/bdspanab.pdf

To add 1 layer of drywall add a STC rating of 1. To add batt insulation adds a STC of 4-5. To add drywall on metal channel adds a STC of 11-13. (without insulation) I would cut 18" rips out of the existing ceiling, add wool batts, reinstall the strips, add channel and new drywall. STC Ratings

Be safe, Gary

 

If it was me I'd fix what I have. Putting up a ceiling and taping all the joints is hard, messy and something to be avoided. The size of the room means butt edges and long sheets to handle.The whole house will be filled with joint compound dust. Where will you put all the furniture. I'd sand the paint lines as best I could then run some joint compound to smooth things out. You must be good enough at taping to fix the bad spot if not the you wouldn't be considering redoing the whole ceiling. Just MHO

 

You are probably right, and the 1/4 inch drywall being in smaller sizes means more joints.

The only fly in the ointment is the existing (large) light holes. I want smaller fittings.

Hugh

 

To install smaller cans in the same area, you'll need to cut out a section of drywall [2'x2' or 16"x16"] and tape and finish it to blend in with the rest.

IMO I'd think long and hard before I went thru the expense and work of either replacing or laminating over the existing ceiling. Sometimes that is the best way to go..... but usually only when the majority of the ceiling is defective or otherwise needing repairs.

btw - welcome to the forums Hugh!

 

what about running furring stips perpendicular to the existing joists? Patch the water damaged area as planned, attach the furring strips and then re-rock over that? This may also give you additional flexibilty in adding to or relocating your new ceiling cans.

 

Hi guys,

ok, sorry to drone on about this, but I am REALLY on the fence with this.

A couple of points - if I went the way of a second layer of drywall, I wanted to go straight onto the existing, with screws and glue.

An earlier post mentions supports at the edges (wall/ceiling). I thought that a solution to that if it is a problem, would be timber strips screwed into the wall frame where it meets the ceiling. It would serve two purposes: 1. Extra drywall support, and 2. something to nail the 7 inch proposed crown molding into. Sound ok???

An issue is that if I use 1/4 inch drywall, I can only get 8 foot sheets. But if I use 1/2 inch I can get 12 foot sheets, so less joints. Any advice on this? By the way, the (hideous) red brick wall will also be covered up, either shelving or drywall.

Anyway, here are a couple of images to better describe my headache. So there are three issues: water damage, timber beam removal, and the desire for smaller lights.

Thanks for the welcome to the forum, it seems really active and I am enjoying it already.

Hugh

 

Not sure I understand where the 4' sq water damage is

The 3 holes cut in the ceiling should be replaced with 1 piece of drywall [not 3 smaller pieces] The repairs from the false beams should be an easy fix. The fix for smaller cans is still the same.

What size are you ceiling joists? spacing? is there an attic above? or more living space? If attic, what type of insulation.

If I remember correctly, 1/4" drywall doesn't have a beveled edge so finishing will take a little more work.

 

Your ceiling is in really good shape.
I only rocked mine because the whole thing wasn't able to take paint after being inundated with that chaulky acoustic texture. Which was only put there to cover lots of hairline cracks.

Patching will be easier in this case. Meaning you'll able to limit the project to smaller steps.

 

Hi,

I estimate around 4' sq, but I still have to cut back the damaged drywall.

It seems that repair is the best way to go - ok, into the breach!

Thanks very much for ALL of the replies. I'll keep you posted.

Hugh