Mold - Window & Drywall Issues


  #1  
Old 02-16-10, 08:57 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 65
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Mold - Window & Drywall Issues

Not sure what the cause is, but I have an enormous amount of mold growth around the front bathroom window. Now especially when its cold there is a lot of water on the window panes. These are cheap 15-yr old windows and single pane. The water literally sits on the inner sill sometimes from just the water accumulating on the window panes.

The drywall has gone soft in spots where water built up along the sill and inner window corner and the mold is even up on the inner top of the window drywall where the blinds are mounted. The metal corner guards are rusting and even the clips holding the verticals are rusting.

1. I see no signs of leaks as this is the outer front wall of my home and all is dry down low. However, very light specs of mold are in upper corner on same wall of bathroom, im assuming just the moisture from the window/bathroom.
Should I replace the window?

2. What is the best way to inspect this as my fear is more mold under the drywall and possible rot. Should I pry up the sill and surrounding drywall to inspect and replace?

All windows in this house are cheap and most of them have a ver slight bit of water buildup/moisture at times and even the rusted drywall corner guards. However the one bathroom is the only one with this kind of mold. And on that same wall, on the outside (front of house) there seems to be a moldy patch above the roofline on the outside of the paint on the stucco. Coincidence???? I went in the attic and checked above the bathroom and the wood looks fine on the inside of the attic.

Suggestions... best approach?.... replace windows?












Thanks,
KDC23
 
  #2  
Old 02-17-10, 04:38 PM
airman.1994's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 5,491
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 8 Posts
First you need to get the RH lower. Make sure you run the bath fans for at least 20 minutes after bathing. Hard to tell but most of it looks like just surface mold that can be wiped down. Any soft dry wall will have to be replaced.
 
  #3  
Old 02-17-10, 04:44 PM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Basically, you're saying that the window is garbage, so you can't go wrong by replacing it. The thing is that you have to be ready to replace everything around it. I believe, rock board is used now, if I have the correct name & you'll have to replace any rotted studs & maybe the header.

The only problem is matching the outside shingles or siding but that depends if you use new construction windows or not.
 
  #4  
Old 02-17-10, 04:56 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,415
Received 1,747 Upvotes on 1,571 Posts
Inspecting is kind of pointless, IMO. The drywall jamb lining should be removed and replaced regardless. The window looks like a glorified storm window- (common in the south where heating is rarely an issue) and it is obviously not sealed well around the perimeter of the rough opening, likely allowing cool air around the outside of the frame, increasing the condensation and mold problem in those areas. It's also allowing cold air behind the drywall where it can reach the cornerbead. If you end up replacing the window, be sure that the perimeter of the new window gets air sealed and insulated. If there is a gap in the header above the window, seal that too before the window is installed.

Even then, it looks like the window is mounted to the very outside edge of the exterior wall, and you could be having condensation due to the outside few inches of the wall being colder than the inside surface of the wall. Just guessing.

Sometimes it a problem when ppl install a window up against an existing drywall jamb, it's not possible to insulate the perimeter of the window very well. So you would 1) remove the drywall 2) replace the window and insulate around it 3) fix the drywall. Personally I would suggest using a tearaway bead against the window rather than having drywall butt up to the window. You could also leave a 1/8" - 1/4" gap between the window and the bead, and then either caulk that gap or caulk it and cover it with trim. The gap will provide a thermal break so that if the window sweats, it won't soak the drywall.
 
  #5  
Old 02-17-10, 08:04 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 65
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks all. Truly appreciate your input/help. My fear is that additional rot of wood underneath, so im kind of expecting it a bit. The first picture, although you cant see it well, has a 1/2" gap or so from where the drywall meets the window in bottom left corner against the marble windowsill. So I know water or moisture is getting in there and in this area the drywall is easily pressed inward, so I think removal is a must to be sure.

That makes me feel a little better knowing what to look at and expect... will keep you updated as it goes forward.

And yes, im in florida, and no... we dont do heat... normally! This year we actually had freeze and slight snow in central florida... believe it or not!

Thanks,
KDC23
 
  #6  
Old 12-12-11, 05:03 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks! This post helps me out alot! I dont think i'll replace the windows just yet.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: