Drywall directly on Cinderblock?
#1
03-01-10, 07:57 PM
Drywall directly on Cinderblock?
I have interior cinderblock walls where moisture is not an issue. Currently they are painted over, but I would like to attach drywall to them. Furring strips seem like the safest way to go, but if moisture isnt an issue, can I not just mud the drywall directly to the painted cinderblock?
Also how do I handle the edges of the drywall, i.e. where it meets the ceiling(im not drywalling the ceiling) or another non drywalled wall? Do I just mud up the cracks, tape and paint? Thanks!
Also how do I handle the edges of the drywall, i.e. where it meets the ceiling(im not drywalling the ceiling) or another non drywalled wall? Do I just mud up the cracks, tape and paint? Thanks!
#2
03-02-10, 04:07 AM
Welcome to the forums!
It's rarely a good idea to attach drywall directly to masonry. Even though it appears to be dry there is always the potential for moisture. When covered up with drywall there would be no chance for it to dry out. Furring strips would be a safer bet. Are these walls above or below grade?
There are several ways to handle the top of the drywall. Is the ceiling covered? or is it open rafters/joists? There is a corner bead similar to a J channel that the top of the drywall could be inserted into or you could use moulding to cover the joint at the ceiling.
It's rarely a good idea to attach drywall directly to masonry. Even though it appears to be dry there is always the potential for moisture. When covered up with drywall there would be no chance for it to dry out. Furring strips would be a safer bet. Are these walls above or below grade?
There are several ways to handle the top of the drywall. Is the ceiling covered? or is it open rafters/joists? There is a corner bead similar to a J channel that the top of the drywall could be inserted into or you could use moulding to cover the joint at the ceiling.
#3
03-02-10, 05:39 AM
Yes you should use furring strips. See the other post about the same question. As far as how to deal with the ceiling if the drywall reaches the ceiling then just tape as usual. For the part that touches a non drywall wall you could use a drywall channel that covers the bear edge and stops it from breaking away.
#4
03-02-10, 12:17 PM
Originally Posted by marksr
Welcome to the forums!
It's rarely a good idea to attach drywall directly to masonry. Even though it appears to be dry there is always the potential for moisture. When covered up with drywall there would be no chance for it to dry out. Furring strips would be a safer bet. Are these walls above or below grade?
There are several ways to handle the top of the drywall. Is the ceiling covered? or is it open rafters/joists? There is a corner bead similar to a J channel that the top of the drywall could be inserted into or you could use moulding to cover the joint at the ceiling.
It's rarely a good idea to attach drywall directly to masonry. Even though it appears to be dry there is always the potential for moisture. When covered up with drywall there would be no chance for it to dry out. Furring strips would be a safer bet. Are these walls above or below grade?
There are several ways to handle the top of the drywall. Is the ceiling covered? or is it open rafters/joists? There is a corner bead similar to a J channel that the top of the drywall could be inserted into or you could use moulding to cover the joint at the ceiling.
EDIT: If I do use furring strips, do you think I can skip the vapor barrier and/or insulation?
#6
03-02-10, 02:38 PM
Originally Posted by marksr
Why would you want to skip a chance to add insulation and a vapor barrier?
#7
03-02-10, 02:54 PM
Super Moderator
Might use a block fill paint..then a topcoat....if its just aesthetics thats, a pretty simple way.
Adding firring strips is really pretty quick and easy with a powder actuated nailer and some liquid nail.
I mean..if you really want to do it..then go ahead and use adhesive and be done....but a little more time and expense will save tons down the line.
Just wondering...do you own the building?
Adding firring strips is really pretty quick and easy with a powder actuated nailer and some liquid nail.
I mean..if you really want to do it..then go ahead and use adhesive and be done....but a little more time and expense will save tons down the line.
Just wondering...do you own the building?
#8
03-02-10, 03:12 PM
Originally Posted by Gunguy45
Might use a block fill paint..then a topcoat....if its just aesthetics thats, a pretty simple way.
Adding firring strips is really pretty quick and easy with a powder actuated nailer and some liquid nail.
I mean..if you really want to do it..then go ahead and use adhesive and be done....but a little more time and expense will save tons down the line.
Just wondering...do you own the building?
Adding firring strips is really pretty quick and easy with a powder actuated nailer and some liquid nail.
I mean..if you really want to do it..then go ahead and use adhesive and be done....but a little more time and expense will save tons down the line.
Just wondering...do you own the building?
#9
03-02-10, 03:55 PM
Super Moderator
Must be a terminology thing..thats why I asked. To me..apartment means rental. I understands in Europe its different..like "flat" in the UK. Maybe in places like NY as well.
Are you in the US? I know our location info here on the site has been funky the last few months...
Was thinking....what about a textured surface directly on the block? Sorta like a stucco or knockdown? Seems like that might be a cheap (and cool looking) solution.....
Are you in the US? I know our location info here on the site has been funky the last few months...
Was thinking....what about a textured surface directly on the block? Sorta like a stucco or knockdown? Seems like that might be a cheap (and cool looking) solution.....
#10
03-02-10, 04:09 PM
Yeah I guess I should have said condo. Im in the US, Hawaii actually. Im open to any ideas as long as the surface Im left with is paintable and would look good being so. Im handy, but Ive never done work like this before so the easier the better.
#11
03-03-10, 04:05 AM
The interior walls wouldn't need insulation and a vapor barrier, just the one [s] that face the exterior. Because of your climate, it might not be necessary - might be a good idea to check with some locals.
To plaster over the block you would need to apply a bonding agent first so the plaster would adhere well.
To plaster over the block you would need to apply a bonding agent first so the plaster would adhere well.
#12
03-03-10, 05:06 AM
Okay if you only want a nice surface to paint then that makes it easier. Look into non woven wall liner. It's a thick paper that can go over just about anything and be painted.
#13
03-04-10, 09:03 PM
Thanks Mg will look into it
edit: How do you handle the seams? Also, Im just skeptical that the block outlines wont show through the liner after its adhered. Guess I wont know until i try
edit: How do you handle the seams? Also, Im just skeptical that the block outlines wont show through the liner after its adhered. Guess I wont know until i try
#15
03-06-10, 06:33 AM
The stuff is very thick and will cover the joints however follow the directions. As far as the seams it's the same as if you were painting over wall paper. You do see them but they are better then cinder block.
