Hanging Drywall with Glue?
#1
08-16-10, 04:36 PM
Hanging Drywall with Glue?
I've been tearing out some old drywall in order to add a shower to my master bathroom, and noticed quite a bit of glue on some of the studs. Is this glue used to fill in gaps made by twisting/warping studs, or simply to help the drywall stick to the studs after nailing?
#3
08-16-10, 07:49 PM
Maybe that was it. Now that I think of it, there were probably only nails on every other stud and glue on the others to save time when mudding. I hate homebuilders. I have a couple bowed studs (1/8" max). Maybe glue would work to my benefit to fill in any voids. What do you think?
#5
08-17-10, 05:51 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 426
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
the main problem with using glue is it expands and contracts. When the installer uses less nails they are expecting the glues adhesion to actually "work". If it dosent have proper adhesion you will get popping seams later on down the road.
#6
08-17-10, 06:16 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,665
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
When I first saw hangers using glue I resisted it with a passion. I would say ," why not just screw it on? It doesn't take any longer to do" But my position has changed these past few years. The technology has come so far. Drywall glue is made specifically for drywall. It takes a long time to dry so it doesnt shrink as much as other glues. And yes it does level your wall out a bit as you go. So I'm all for glue on walls but I still put a few extra screws in to be sure.
If your not for glue then you can shim the walls straighter with cardboard drywall shims.
On a side note, the glue they used in the 80's was horrible. You can go into any house built in that era, push on the wall, and it wont be attatched any more.
If your not for glue then you can shim the walls straighter with cardboard drywall shims.
On a side note, the glue they used in the 80's was horrible. You can go into any house built in that era, push on the wall, and it wont be attatched any more.
#10
08-18-10, 12:35 PM
You are welcome! That is why we are here. These may not help now, but maybe later:
http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021174058.pdf
Show us some pictures after the work is done.....
Be safe, Gary
http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021174058.pdf
Show us some pictures after the work is done.....
Be safe, Gary
#11
08-18-10, 02:30 PM
Thanks Gary. Question: when I'm installing the first/bottom row of drywall (closest to floor), do I cut off the tapered edge? Otherwise, the baseboard molding won't sit properly. Not sure how to do this considering I have 8-foot ceilings and will be using 4x8 sheets of drywall.
#12
08-18-10, 02:50 PM
Group Moderator
Start at the ceiling and hang the piece horizontally so the tapered edge is on the bottom
Then reverese the bottom piece so the tapered edge is at the top
Thus, your tapered edges meet in the middle of the wall
Then reverese the bottom piece so the tapered edge is at the top
Thus, your tapered edges meet in the middle of the wall
#13
08-18-10, 03:50 PM
Makes sense. For some reason I thought both edges were tapered. Are there different kinds available? For instance, if I were doing a ceiling, I would want both edges tapered to avoid butt joints.
#14
08-19-10, 03:58 AM
The tapers are along the sides of the drywall, there is no taper on the ends. If the ceiling/wall is more than 12' long there is no getting away from butt joints. The butts should be staggered - that way it's easier to make them disappear.
I've seen some carpenters shim the backside of the baseboard to compensate for the tapered edge. I suppose you could also fill it with j/c but that's a lot of bending over
I've seen some carpenters shim the backside of the baseboard to compensate for the tapered edge. I suppose you could also fill it with j/c but that's a lot of bending over
