5/8" drywall in bathroom?
#1
11-30-10, 03:56 PM
5/8" drywall in bathroom?
I currently have my entire bathroom down to the studs and am ready to begin hanging drywall.
Thinking thicker would be better purchased some 5/8" from HD after already setting my new switches and outlets at 1/2"
Should I use 5/8" on the ceiling and 1/2" on the walls or just stick with the 1/2" all together?
Many thanks,
Mark
Thinking thicker would be better purchased some 5/8" from HD after already setting my new switches and outlets at 1/2"
Should I use 5/8" on the ceiling and 1/2" on the walls or just stick with the 1/2" all together?
Many thanks,
Mark
#3
11-30-10, 09:40 PM
Regardless of what you do with the drywall, be sure to paint the walls and ceilings in your bathroom with a paint intended for bathrooms, like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom Paint available at Home Depot and most home centers.
You see, latex paints in North America are made primarily from two kinds of plastic; polyvinyl acetate (which you probably know better as white wood glue) and polymethyl methacrylate (which you probably know better as Plexiglas). The problem with polyvinyl acetate (which is what most "budget priced" interior latex paints are made of is that it loses it's adhesion and softens up under wet conditions, or even high humidity. The result is that you often see paint peeling on the ceilings and high up on the walls of bathrooms, and this is often misdiagnosed as insufficient prep work prior to painting. The real problem is the kind of paint that was used. The "Plexiglas" type paints are more resistant to moisture and high humidity.
So, by buying a paint made specifically for bathrooms, not only will you get a polymethyl methacrylate resins that's chosen because of it's high resistance to moisture an humidity, but the paint will contain a mildewcide that kills mildew spores that land on the paint before they have a chance to grow. Otherwise, you can have mildew growing on and in your paint, and eventually grow on and in the face paper of your drywall.
Paint problems in bathrooms are common, and essentially all of them can be avoided by using a paint specifically made for bathrooms. Sherwin Williams also makes a paint meant for bathrooms called simply "Bath Paint".
You see, latex paints in North America are made primarily from two kinds of plastic; polyvinyl acetate (which you probably know better as white wood glue) and polymethyl methacrylate (which you probably know better as Plexiglas). The problem with polyvinyl acetate (which is what most "budget priced" interior latex paints are made of is that it loses it's adhesion and softens up under wet conditions, or even high humidity. The result is that you often see paint peeling on the ceilings and high up on the walls of bathrooms, and this is often misdiagnosed as insufficient prep work prior to painting. The real problem is the kind of paint that was used. The "Plexiglas" type paints are more resistant to moisture and high humidity.
So, by buying a paint made specifically for bathrooms, not only will you get a polymethyl methacrylate resins that's chosen because of it's high resistance to moisture an humidity, but the paint will contain a mildewcide that kills mildew spores that land on the paint before they have a chance to grow. Otherwise, you can have mildew growing on and in your paint, and eventually grow on and in the face paper of your drywall.
Paint problems in bathrooms are common, and essentially all of them can be avoided by using a paint specifically made for bathrooms. Sherwin Williams also makes a paint meant for bathrooms called simply "Bath Paint".
#4
12-01-10, 04:50 AM
Ya, 5/8" is best for the ceiling, imperative if the ceiling joists are on 24" centers. As far as paint goes, a good primer and 1-2 coats of latex enamel is bare minimum. Using a kitchen and bath enamel is better. Also if you don't currently have an exhaust fan in the bath rm - there will never be a better time to install one 
#6
12-09-10, 11:05 AM
Got most of the drywall in and while there are certainly a few imperfections, I think it came out pretty good.
When cutting around windows and doors, how close do you typically bring it in and what options do I have for trimming-out the unfinished drywall edge around those windows and doors?
Many thanks,
Mark
When cutting around windows and doors, how close do you typically bring it in and what options do I have for trimming-out the unfinished drywall edge around those windows and doors?
Many thanks,
Mark
#7
12-09-10, 11:26 AM
Group Moderator
Drywall normally gets cut as close to the edge of the window or door as you can and then the junction gets covered with trim molding
