ceiling water damage
#1
12-13-10, 04:16 PM
ceiling water damage
We had a toilet overflow (considerably) on the 2nd floor, and the result was damage to the ceiling on the 1st floor: it's been dry 6 months now but you can see water marks outlining the drywall sheeting, and the mud is gone over the joints. The area affected covers the joints between 4 sheets, going north/south AND east/west.
I have reduced the stain as much as possible, and it's time to fill in the damaged areas again on the textured ceiling. It's a stippled effect, not smooth or popcorn. So what instrument is best to reapply mud? I have been told to just use a scrunched up plastic bag (like a grocery store bag) to apply it; and I'm not real impressed with the (circular shaped) 'brush' applicators I find at the local box stores that are designed for this type of ceiling. Any suggestions on what to use, so that my work will blend with the existing ceiling?
Thanks
I have reduced the stain as much as possible, and it's time to fill in the damaged areas again on the textured ceiling. It's a stippled effect, not smooth or popcorn. So what instrument is best to reapply mud? I have been told to just use a scrunched up plastic bag (like a grocery store bag) to apply it; and I'm not real impressed with the (circular shaped) 'brush' applicators I find at the local box stores that are designed for this type of ceiling. Any suggestions on what to use, so that my work will blend with the existing ceiling?
Thanks
#2
12-14-10, 02:57 AM
There are so many variations of texture it would be difficult to tell you exactly how to do it, especially without seeing the texture you have. Could you supply a pic or two?
If you used the correct brush it's possible you didn't have the correct consistency with the mud. it needs to be thinned before you use it for texture. A light texture may have the j/c thinned to a paint like consistency. A heavier texture would be thicker. It might be best to test your texturing on some cardboard before you start on the ceiling.
btw - any water stains will need a solvent based primer to seal them in so they won't bleed thru the paint.
If you used the correct brush it's possible you didn't have the correct consistency with the mud. it needs to be thinned before you use it for texture. A light texture may have the j/c thinned to a paint like consistency. A heavier texture would be thicker. It might be best to test your texturing on some cardboard before you start on the ceiling.
btw - any water stains will need a solvent based primer to seal them in so they won't bleed thru the paint.
#3
12-14-10, 07:02 AM
Thanks Marksr,
I have photos of the ceiling but don't know how to attach them to this; when I do it asks for the url, and I simply have them stored in a folder on my desktop.
And I was planning on using Kilz to coat over the affected area to coat over what's left of the stain.
I have photos of the ceiling but don't know how to attach them to this; when I do it asks for the url, and I simply have them stored in a folder on my desktop.
And I was planning on using Kilz to coat over the affected area to coat over what's left of the stain.
#4
12-14-10, 08:49 AM
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There is a catalog of drywall texture examples at: Identifying Drywall Textures - GSP Restoration Inc.
#5
12-14-10, 09:35 AM
Have you read this? http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
I'm not much good at adding pics either
Be sure to use the oil base kilz, the latex version does a poor job of hiding water stains.
I'm not much good at adding pics either
Be sure to use the oil base kilz, the latex version does a poor job of hiding water stains.
#6
12-14-10, 05:57 PM
To Michael Thomas: thanks for the link; I checked that website and didn't find our texture there, although it is a very common one in this region. (it's just a common builder-grade stippled finish where they stick the brush up onto the ceiling and then drop it back down)
To marksr: Yes, I had already read that (link) but wasn't looking to download software onto my pc just to attach a pic to my question. And yes- oil based Kilz- thanks.
To marksr: Yes, I had already read that (link) but wasn't looking to download software onto my pc just to attach a pic to my question. And yes- oil based Kilz- thanks.
#7
12-15-10, 04:55 AM
"(it's just a common builder-grade stippled finish where they stick the brush up onto the ceiling and then drop it back down)"
Around here that's called a 'stomp' finish. Basically you thin down the j/c and either roll it on the ceiling [preferred] and then stomp the design into the wet j/c or you dip the brush into the j/c and apply it that way. There are 2 types of brushes that are commonly used, the round brush and the crow foot brush. Figuring out which brush to use is fairly simple, the rest is determined by the j/c consistency and how it's applied.
If you texture the repairs and don't like how the texture looks - it's a simple matter to wipe/scrape of the j/c while it's still wet and try again. If you don't realize it won't work until after the texture dries - just scrape and sand and try again
Around here that's called a 'stomp' finish. Basically you thin down the j/c and either roll it on the ceiling [preferred] and then stomp the design into the wet j/c or you dip the brush into the j/c and apply it that way. There are 2 types of brushes that are commonly used, the round brush and the crow foot brush. Figuring out which brush to use is fairly simple, the rest is determined by the j/c consistency and how it's applied.
If you texture the repairs and don't like how the texture looks - it's a simple matter to wipe/scrape of the j/c while it's still wet and try again. If you don't realize it won't work until after the texture dries - just scrape and sand and try again
#8
12-15-10, 10:56 AM
Thank you for your help marksr. This last entry confirmed that I was on the right track with the direction that I was going with repairs. I'll be using the round brush, and experimenting with consistency until I get it right. Thanks again- this site and you guys are invaluable!
