Pass-through window in a wall
#1
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Pass-through window in a wall
Want to build a pass through window in a wall between 2 rooms. Let's assume the wall is not load bearing.
I haven't been able to find a definitive how-to for this on the web. How is the frame best constructed exactly? After I cut out the studs, a plate could be simply nailed to the stud tops, and toe nailed into the side studs. I don't see a need to take out all the drywall to install jack studs. Then the top plate could of course be installed in the same way. Or is a header required even for a non-load bearing installation?
I haven't been able to find a definitive how-to for this on the web. How is the frame best constructed exactly? After I cut out the studs, a plate could be simply nailed to the stud tops, and toe nailed into the side studs. I don't see a need to take out all the drywall to install jack studs. Then the top plate could of course be installed in the same way. Or is a header required even for a non-load bearing installation?
#2
Unless you find a window that will span exactly between your existing studs, you will need to install another king stud (from top to bottom). Once it is in at the proper distance, plus 3", then you can install a jack stud against each extreme stud on the inside to hold up a bottom plate that will span across it all. Install jacks inside the window opening (taking up the 3" you allowed) to the height of your window. Then install a top plate on top of that and cripples at 16" oc to match the ones below on top of the plate to the top plate of the room.
Word of experience, don't try to save the sheetrock in that area. You will booger it up anyway. Just go ahead and take down an area that will cover your window opening from floor to ceiling and reinstall a fresh piece after you are through with your framing.
Word of experience, don't try to save the sheetrock in that area. You will booger it up anyway. Just go ahead and take down an area that will cover your window opening from floor to ceiling and reinstall a fresh piece after you are through with your framing.
#4
I knew that
!! Spanning between multiple studs and placing a plate on top will require cutting the interior studs 1 1/2" shorter than the sheetrock so it will sit flat at the level you want. The methodology is still there whether you use a window or not. I would still remove sheetrock in that area to make framing much easier. Make sure it isn't load bearing or you will need to install a header.

#5
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The other poster is right one. Much simpler to go from floor to ceiling, and impossible to do right with sheetrock in the way. The framing is done exactly as if you were installing a window. Also next to imposible to get a straight cut on the studs. Better to just remove the studs, cut them on a compound miter saw and reinstall them. Depending on what size opening you want, if it's just 4' then one 4' wide section will do any more then that open it up 8' that way your working with whole sheets not both cut edges. On the sides where you had to cut the sheetrock on the wall you have now I cut the old paper back 2" and peel it off, That way there will be no hump where the join is. I try to cut out on the insides of the studs on the sides, instead of down the middle of them where the nails will be. That way I can just use my jack studs to screw the sheetrock to.
Becarefull when cutting there may be wires behind the wall.
I also like to use round edge outside corners not square metal ones. (you will also have to buy 8, plastic 90 deg. corner pieces )You will be amazed how much softer a look it has.
Becarefull when cutting there may be wires behind the wall.
I also like to use round edge outside corners not square metal ones. (you will also have to buy 8, plastic 90 deg. corner pieces )You will be amazed how much softer a look it has.
#6
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I disagree with Joe on cutting the paper off of the drywall. Whenever the gypsum is exposed, there is the possibility of moisture [from the j/c or latex paint] causing the surrounding paper to lift
I suppose there would be less danger of this happening if you use a setting compound like durabond. I'd treat it like any butt joint and just float the j/c out further.
I also like bullnose corner bead but IMO you'd have to use it throughout the house for it to look right.

I also like bullnose corner bead but IMO you'd have to use it throughout the house for it to look right.
#7
I think Joe may have been contemplating a "layover" repair on the sheetrock, but it would be a big job IMO, not like a light switch hole, etc, where it is easy to do. I think, likewise a butt joint and float out would work better on a large line.
#8
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I was confused about your comment about corner drywall molding, until I realized I was thinking of a different type of frame than you. I was thinking it was be trimmed out like a window as well - like a pass-through kitchen window. But maybe plain drywall would be good.
#10
If it will have any pass thru traffic, like dishes, drinks, etc, go with Mark's idea of casing it, or at least install a sill of wood. The rest can be of sheetrock.