Salvaging adhesive-damaged drywall

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Old 04-05-11, 02:11 PM
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Salvaging adhesive-damaged drywall

I just took down some butt-ugly painted paneling in my family room and was left with bare drywall with a whole lot of liquid nails stuck to it. I got the adhesive off, but the drywall paper came with it. So what I have are these 'S' shapes all over the drywall that are missing paper.

My original idea was to mud over the damaged drywall, sand, repeat, sand, repeat if needed, prime and paint. Father in law thinks I should just rip it all out and start over. I can't imagine that's gonna be any less work. Of course, if I can't make the walls look perfect, I'm gonna have to go down to the studs. But I think I can salvage this mess. What do you guys think?
 
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Old 04-05-11, 06:45 PM
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prime the bare gypsum and torn paper with oil based kilz, and when thats dry, float out your walls. u should be able to save the drywall.
 
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Old 04-06-11, 05:29 AM
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I would add that you shouldn't use a latex primer. The moisture in latex paint/primer [or j/c] can loosen the surrounding drywall paper. Using an oil base primer [or Zinnser's Gardz] will prevent that. I'd only consider replacing the drywall if I also needed to insulate or update the wiring.
 
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Old 04-06-11, 05:46 AM
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We have tyed doing both ways and found a way what was faster and came out better then any of the one's mentioned. We removed all the base board, window and door casing and the window aprin (the piece under the window stool) and went over the whole wall with 1/4 drywall (Home Depot has it) we kept the sheetrock back away from the edges of the door and window casing by about 1-1/2" so the old trim can go right back up. We placed tabs of blue tape on the floor where the studs were, attached the sheetrock using Loctite Quick Grab and sheetrock screws, by using the adhesive you need 1/2 as many screws. keep in mind sheetrock is installed horizontal and tight to the ceiling first. All the ends must fall in the middle of a stud so you may have to cut the first piece.
The wall ended up perfectly flat and smooth.
Try it you way and stand back and look at the lenght of the wall onece you prime it and try me you can not see flaws.
 
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Old 04-06-11, 08:48 AM
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I'd prime with Gardz, skim coat with joint compound, prime and paint
 
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Old 04-06-11, 10:05 AM
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In the end it all depends on how good you are with mud and sanding, what level of perfection you are looking for, what your budget is, and what level of shine your wall paint will have to remind you what was there before. Personally I would do what joecaption suggests, because that will pretty much guarantees a perfect professional looking job with possibly the same amount of work as coating it all over with compound. The trim will go back on pretty quickly, any recepticles can be easily adjusted, and the compound will be done easily and fast and the entire wall will look perfect. I have done it the other way also and trying to get a perfect quality look with all the feathering and touch up went beyond my level of patience especially when dealing with so much torn paper edges.
 
 

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