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Greenboard to Tub/Shower Transition...Pictures Included.

Greenboard to Tub/Shower Transition...Pictures Included.


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Old 04-06-11, 09:05 AM
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Greenboard to Tub/Shower Transition...Pictures Included.

Ok, so my wife and I bought our first house and are a few months in to a total remodel. I am currently working on the bathroom. I completely gutted it down to nothing but the studs. I put in a new window, new insulation, new plumbing, new electric with all GFI receptacles...I was feeling pretty good because no corners were cut and everything was looking decent. Last week, I installed a new tub, got all the plumbing connected, no problems. Today I was ready to install my shower surround, and I began to notice something. Rather than a nice flat lip (or maybe you would call it a flange) on the outside edges of my tub there is a somewhat beveled (or rounded) lip. In fact, it sits almost 1/4 inch higher on the stud. I always thought that the proper technique was to bring your backer board or greenboard over the lip and then caulk the gap for a nice smooth, tight transition. However, I don't think the lip is flat enough to do that. Additionally, the tub lines up with the corner of my "shower wall" and I now have no idea how to finish the wall and create a clean corner. I know none of this probably makes sense, but hopefully the photos help.

PS ignore any remaining drywall in the photos, it has since been removed.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as clearly I am lost here!

Thanks!
CS
 
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Old 04-06-11, 09:08 AM
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Old 04-06-11, 10:09 AM
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Not that I'm a Pro...but the pics are a little confusing ..poss cause they are so close. Are they the tub or the surround? Could you take one a bit further away? How does the surround attach? Is there any flange for screws?
 
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Old 04-06-11, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for the reply...this is one I had taken from further away. You can almost see the floor in the bottom of the picture. And notice how the flange tapers in width as it goes down towards the floor.

Anyway, it doesn't really matter, I just got back from Lowes where I opened up the box to the same exact model I have to find that it had *gasp* a nice flat flange that would fit flush against the stud. Mine is apparently a defect, which is why I had no idea how to overlap the flange.....well, at least I'm not a lunatic after all. So now I have to tear out my brand new tub to return it. Unbelievable.

 
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Old 04-06-11, 03:34 PM
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I would just add that you don't need to use greenboard. Regular drywall is just as good once it's been primed and painted with a latex enamel. Paint doesn't always adhere well to green board.
 
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Old 04-09-11, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
I would just add that you don't need to use greenboard. Regular drywall is just as good once it's been primed and painted with a latex enamel. Paint doesn't always adhere well to green board.
I know some of the "don't cut corners" crowd would poo-poo this...especially for minimum savings. But I just enclosed my shower/tub with more than appropriate waterproofing. The majority of the remaining drywall surface will also be covered by wainscotting. So with all that said, would it be a horrible idea to opt for the lightweight, non-greenboard drywall? Does anyone else disagree?
 
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Old 04-10-11, 12:10 PM
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As long as the new board is properly primed/sealed and mold resistant latex paint is applied I doubt you will have any issues. I assume you also have a good exhaust fan that is working properly to help in removing moist air from the room during shower times.
 
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Old 04-11-11, 02:29 PM
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Just wanted to wrap this thread up before I start a new one...I guess the moral of the story is to always check your purchases at Lowes before you leave the store, and certainly before you install them.

And thanks for the advice on the drywall...I already did the whole room in greenboard, but next time I might try to save a few bucks.

Thanks for the help everyone!

CS
 
  #9  
Old 04-14-11, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by csanberg View Post
Just wanted to wrap this thread up before I start a new one...I guess the moral of the story is to always check your purchases at Lowes before you leave the store, and certainly before you install them.

And thanks for the advice on the drywall...I already did the whole room in greenboard, but next time I might try to save a few bucks.

Thanks for the help everyone!

CS
Just to follow up...a gent in his homedepot smock talked me into using the greenboard with a redguard membrane around the shower. Given that the greenboard is really easy to work with...I went with it. Now I'm second guessing that choice after reading areas of this forum. I haven't tiled yet so it's not too late.

All seems are taped and sealed and the entire surround is covered generously with Redguard.
 
  #10  
Old 04-15-11, 05:04 PM
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Add a 2x4 or two to bring that wall out then install 1/2" drywall and finish like you would a normal corner. 1/2" drywall will bring the wall even with the surface of the tub lip. Then tile around the tub (covering the lip/flange) and caulk seams.
 
 

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