1/2" Sheetrock Ultralight good for 24"OC kitchen ceiling?
#1
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1/2" Sheetrock Ultralight good for 24"OC kitchen ceiling?
Hey all,
removed my old plywood and plaster ceiling in my kitchen and dining room which had no insulation in it...
I'm adding insulation and am now ready for drywall but need a bit of help.
Rafters are 24"oc, Im looking at getting this:
SHEETROCK brand UltraLight 48 in. x 10 ft. x 1/2 in. Gypsum Panel - 14113411710 at The Home Depot
It's "Ultralight" so I'm hoping it wont kill me when installing it, and it says it's good for 24"oc spacing.
I just wanted to verify with you all before I get it.
Thanks all!
removed my old plywood and plaster ceiling in my kitchen and dining room which had no insulation in it...
I'm adding insulation and am now ready for drywall but need a bit of help.
Rafters are 24"oc, Im looking at getting this:
SHEETROCK brand UltraLight 48 in. x 10 ft. x 1/2 in. Gypsum Panel - 14113411710 at The Home Depot
It's "Ultralight" so I'm hoping it wont kill me when installing it, and it says it's good for 24"oc spacing.
I just wanted to verify with you all before I get it.
Thanks all!
#3
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I wouldn't bother with moisture resistant but I've always heard you need 5/8" rock on a ceiling with 24" spacing
That said, I have no familiarity with the particular product you mentioned
That said, I have no familiarity with the particular product you mentioned
#4
A kitchen can often be a moist place and I would, regardless of what board or thickness you go with, at least consider spending a few minutes to bridge the trusses with some 2x4 to provide added nailing surfaces to further eliminate a sagging possibility later. 24 OC cross bracing would be enough. It wouldn't take you long with some 3" screws and a good driver gun. I have had sagging issues with wall board in the past when installed overhead with 24 OC structure so that is why I am more cautious now.
#5
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A kitchen can often be a moist place and I would, regardless of what board or thickness you go with, at least consider spending a few minutes to bridge the trusses with some 2x4 to provide added nailing surfaces to further eliminate a sagging possibility later. 24 OC cross bracing would be enough. It wouldn't take you long with some 3" screws and a good driver gun. I have had sagging issues with wall board in the past when installed overhead with 24 OC structure so that is why I am more cautious now.
Thanks again!
#6
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I'm not familiar with the light weight drywall but according to their web site it says it can be used on 24" providing you texture the drywall - to me that sounds like they expect it to not stay perfectly flat.
5/8" stays flat/rigid better than 1/2" does. 1/2" usually does ok with 16" centers although adding nailers as equinox suggest should help.
5/8" stays flat/rigid better than 1/2" does. 1/2" usually does ok with 16" centers although adding nailers as equinox suggest should help.
#7
If you are considering using 5/8" drywall, you might as well use 1/2" regular. I didn't see the ultralight offered in 5/8", but if it were, I figure it would weigh as much as regular 1/2".
#8
It was 5/8 regular product board but was in an area that was exposed to some moisture as yours will be. As I suggested earlier also, regardless of what you decide to go with, adding some extra bridging nailers between the trusses will only help reduce potential future sagging failure and will take very little time to install. I originally thought that using 5/8" would solve my 24 OC sag concern, but it didn't. Extra nailing did in the end.