Bout ready to begin taping and applying the joint compound. Ranging from 1-5 my level of experience would be between 1 and 2. Purchased a drywall book but there's no mention of a recommended sequence to follow when taping; i.e., ceiling joints and corners, then walls. I went to purchase a box of premixed all purpose compound and the sales person said it could be diluted and used for texturing. There was also joint compound described as 'light weight' with 'dust control' and wondered if any member(s) is familar with the product, it's decribed as reducing dust when sanding, which I assume is good, but wondered if any thoughts whether it would require higher level of experience. Appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Thank you, dave

 

I'll let the pros get you going, but want to point out (IMO) that the number one most common mistake is too much joint compound. As soon as I see the word "sanding I know the person is in trouble. Pros need to get done quickly, thus three coats max. Beginners working on their own home, they can cheat.

1. Extremely thin coats. So it takes 4 or 5, you'll learn and get a much better job. The 2 and 3 coat guys are really good at it.

2. Don't do two perpendicular joints in the same application. By removing as much mud as you can near where the other joint joins, you can come back the next day and do that joint and blend it in without destroying the nice neat job on the first joint.

3. When you second coat a joint, work each side separately without adding any mud to the center. This will feather the joints out to each side without raising the center. There is plenty of time to skim a finish coat over the middle.

4. Don't chase the small things. A minor imperfection will quickly be covered with the next coat. Small bumps or lines are simply removed with the blade after they are dry and before the next coat.

By taking the "go slow" approach, you learn good techniques and rarely have to deal with "sanding". Also, pick up a palette, it just makes for an easier and better job.

Bud

 

Adding to Bud's good advice, you want to use the all purpose j/c for the taping. It has better adhesion than the light weight mud, either can be thinned down and used for texture. If you buy the j/c in a box, you should transfer it to a bucket with a lid. The j/c tends to dry around the edges of the plastic making for little nasty boogers in your mud

It also helps to thin the mud slightly. That will make the mud flow a little better making it easier to get a neat job. You need to make good and sure your tape coat is dry before applying more mud - if it isn't dry, the fresh mud may lift the tape off of the wall!

There really isn't any way around the sanding dust. You could use a wet/damp sponge [no dust], it softens the mud and moves it around to make it smooth BUT that only works if the mud is applied evenly! A novice is better off using a sanding pole [or anything that holds the paper flat] That will help you to get an even finish. I prefer a sanding screen over sandpaper - it lasts longer. The screens are sold next to the packets of sandpaper that fit a sanding pole.

I'm not sure what Bud means by a 'palette' maybe he means a hawk, I prefer a mud pan but either will work. Personally, I'd rather apply an extra coat of j/c than do any extra sanding.

 

LOL, the pros can tell I'm not a pro. So that is what it is called. It functions like a artists palette by holding the mud right where you need it. 12" square with a handle in the center, you carry your supply with you. You can also frequently wipe off your knife and pick up a fresh supply of mud. After each pass the mud is all over the knife so a couple of cleaning passes and adjustments for the next load and it is where you want it and only where you want it. Sometime you want the mud to the left, sometimes to the right.

I think I'm see the advantages of a video for explaining this .

Bud

 

I believe plasterers (wow that word looks spelled wrong...lol) and stucco guys use a hawk much more than sheetrockers. They normally apply much more of the material at one time.

 

OK, how do I keep the mud from drying out half way through the small 3' taping job. Is there some trick to slowing down the drying process so that I can smooth out the mud & remove the excess.
Thanks,
Roger

 

roger 100 welcome to the forums! What kind of mud are you using? Hopefully not the dry bagged 15 minute setting type Depends on how slow you are, too. A 3' taping job should take about 15 seconds.
Bud, don't worry, "pallette" isn't used in East Tennessee, anyway :: Most pros don't use sandpaper/screen until they get ready to walk out. Three coats, no sanding....that's how thin it is.

 

Not a pro, but have done plenty of taping and have picked up lots of tips from the pros I work with on commercial jobs. Here are the only tips I can add:

I only use Plus3 in the blue bucket (Or box). I have never had any problems with it sticking to any wall/ceiling. All the commercial jobs I would on the pros do the same.

Not sure how big your job is but a Banjo and paper tape is the best way to go to avoid bubbles under the tape. I only use fiber mesh to reenforce corner bead. For the people who don't like fiber: The mesh is buried very deep on corner bead and I have seen what a pain it is to rip out when demoed.

I add one sponge full (like you would use for grouting) of water to a bucket of mud. I add a bit more if the mud is for the Banjo. Mix well with a paddle mixer.

For sanding I suggest renting a Porter Cable Drywall sander. It is one of the best things ever invented. I ended buying one after spending WAY too much time sanding two bedrooms. Snagged it off Craigslist for $175 (WOOT!)

Roger - Regular mud should take house to dry. Your using setting type mud.

Here are some more good tips/info:
Drywall Taping - DIY Projects | The Family Handyman

 

Thanks for the reply..I'm using sheetrock joint all purpose compound. Luckily I am retired & not trying to make a living at this, just trying to save a few bucks, plus I like to learn new things. I know I am bad at this & you can only learn so much on "U tube", but I'm going to keep trying. If it didn't dry so fast, I think I could turn out a fair looking job. Right now it's going to take a lot of sanding. Any hints or suggestions would be appricated.
Thanks again,
Roger

 

Roger, you say you are working on a 3' joint? How long is it taking you to put on the thin layer of sheetrock compound? Like I said, 15 seconds would kill it. And mud takes a long time to dry. You are using it out of a bucket, right? Premixed? Are you putting it on thick? Thin is better.

 

Roger, are you using j/c in a bag? or premix in a bucket/box?

If it's a setting compound [powder you add water too] you need to mix up a smaller amount or buy a bag that has a longer work time. Most setting compounds are 20 minute, 45 min and 90 minute.

If you are using a premix you can add a little water to the mud and remix it in your mud pan.

 

I'm using j/c out of a bucket..premixed. I think I am putting the mud on pretty thick..probably way too thick, but I don't want the tape to come loose. I have added water to where the mud is about as thick as pudding. Now I am not using a mud pan & maybe that's my problem. I'm kinda dabbing it on out of the bucket.
Do I hear groans ?
Thanks,
Roger

 

I appreciate the information from all, really found it helpfull!! Purchased couple 5 # boxes of all purpose j/c and other taping supplies. Thanks Bud, I am going to have to work hard at notching it down considerably and be patient, slow is not in my DNA and it usually results in making a task more labor intensive. Picked up a couple different types of corner beads to see which works best for me; metal, and the other is made of a fabric type material with a metal strip running down the center. I will be working on the kitchen, intend using the bead for framing the windows and several inside/outside corners, not to mention couple sheetrocked beams; having said that, really looking forward to getting into it. The house is a vintage (old) cabin where nothing is lever or square and on 1 of the corners there's a separation between the sheetrock that's probly slightly over 1/4" at one end to nothing at the other and wondered if there's a compound used to fill the gap, perhaps a flexible thin set, or something simular, or is it best to cut a thin long wedge to fill the gap then add a corner bead, suggestions appreciated. Again, can't thank everyone enough for the help.

 

Lightspeed: The outside corner bead with the two metal strips works fine. Not as sturdy as the metal corners, though. Kids and trikes will destroy it in pretty short order. It would work fine on the beam outer corners. 1/4" in the corner won't present a problem. Be sure to mud it and apply tape and press the tape in.
Roger100: You apply a layer of mud on the seam, then apply the tape. Use a 6" knife to strike it down into the mud. Switch to a 9" knife and apply a coat over it all, smoothing it out to non-existence on the edges, leaving only the tape and the indentation of the sheetrock. Still don't see how it is drying so fast. How long is it taking you to put it on? Post a picture of what you are doing. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html

 

Hi Chandler...I now have a mud pan & have finished the job except for painting. I would rate my quality of work as a low 3, but I'll get better. Now, I have a few stress cracks (clay soil & a slab foundation) that I have got to do with perfection (wife will inspect) My problem is, these cracks open & close with the season. I have seen a product on the market called "good-bye cracks" & another called "stress crack tape". Have you any experience with them ? Will the cracks reopen in time ? Do you have any suggestions ?
Thanks again,
Roger

 

Using the same tape you used on the drywall joints will help in hiding any cracks elsewhere. Just applying mud to the crack usually results in the crack reappearing later