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Stairs + Exterior Cement Wall + Insulation + Gypsum in Least Space Possible

Stairs + Exterior Cement Wall + Insulation + Gypsum in Least Space Possible


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Old 07-26-11, 03:50 PM
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Stairs + Exterior Cement Wall + Insulation + Gypsum in Least Space Possible



I have a wall that I need to insulate and cover, but I do not want to sacrifice too much depth because it would eat into the width of the stairs. How can I minimize the amount of space while still insulating? I hope the pictures give enough information on what I need to do (click to enlarge them).

cheers.
 
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Old 07-26-11, 04:37 PM
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I have almost exact same situation! what is the width of that stringer-3/4"? I really don't think you can do more than putting the sheets of foam board style insulation and then drywall -probably 3/8 to save a little room or some kind of paneling that is even thinner. furring strips first using something like tap con, than foam between them. what is on other side of that concrete wall? in my house it is crawlspace so thinking of insulating that area.
 
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Old 07-26-11, 04:38 PM
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I have to do something similar in a house next week, except I need to build the stairs too! Here's what I plan to do:

First, I'll glue 4x8 sheets of 3/4" ISO Dow R-board to the cement wall, with the sheets oriented horizontally. Then I'll anchor a 1x2 strip vertically on top of the foam, using 3/16" x 2 3/4" tapcons. then I'll install 14 1/2" rips of the same foam r-board vertically, then place another 1x2 strip vertically, and so on. I imagine that this will give me the tightest air barrier, which is pretty important on an exterior foundation wall.

So I'll have 1 1/2" of foam on most of the wall, but only 3/4" of foam behind the furring strips. But I figured doing it that way would be far superior to using 1 1/2" foam, with 1 1/2" furring, since if you did it that way you'd have lots of air leakage around each piece of furring.
 
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Old 07-26-11, 04:54 PM
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good plan, but he doesn't have 1 1/2" + the depth of drywall/paneling for that to work though. I am guessing he only has 1" total to work based on photo 2. he could use great stuff or caulk to seal around the foam board where furring strips are-yeh don't use 2x for furring, use 1x as mentioned? since that is solid poured wall can't see much air leakage? caulk the space just under that joist where it sits on the wall for sure.
 
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Old 07-27-11, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for the great responses. I'm definately going to be using rigid foam board as I live in Calgary. I might use the rigid foam that has channels for metal furring strips. You can see them on the wall in this video, I couldnt find a good picture just this vid: ‪Basement renovation 2‬‏ - YouTube And then attach 3/8" GreenEboard, which is supposed to be ultral fire/mold resistant and can be used as a finishable surface (ie drywall finishing compound and paint.

I'll still have to figure out what to do with the stringer, as the wall will over-hang. Hammermash, the stringer is 1 inch, but that isn't enough. Making a faux stringer shouldn't be too hard (although how many times have I said that, :wink.
 
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Old 07-27-11, 11:52 AM
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since you only have 1" to work with, you could do the same thing I am doing, but start by trimming the stairway skirt with a 1x2 laid flat so that it is 1 1/2" wide. This will give you a wider surface to work with above the stairs, and it would just overhang the stair skirt by 1/2". Then sheet the wall using 1/2" foam. Install 1/2" plywood strips vertically and more 1/2" foam (14 1/2" wide) to fill the field. Once 1/2" drywall is installed, it would be flush with the front edge of the 1x2. You could then install a trim moulding flat onto the wall to cover this seam.

Of course your plan sounds like it will work too.

Hammerash, the air leakage I was thinking of is the warm humid air (from the house) that could potentially be making contact with a cold exterior wall in the wintertime. This would cause condensation and mold behind the furring, foam, and drywall. That's why I'm using that 2 layer technique in the house I'll be working on, so that air can't easily get past the cracks on either side of furring that is placed directly onto the cement.

Speaking of that, you might want to use basement board that is mold resistant, just as a precaution. Its worth a few extra bucks for peace of mind.
 
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Old 07-29-11, 12:07 PM
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Jus an update: I thought GreenE-board was made in N. America. It comes from Asia (the site does not say where exactly). After the toxic drywall thing a few years ago, I don't trust Asian building materials, so I'm going with traditional Canadian made drywall. Cheers.
 
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Old 08-09-11, 10:10 PM
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Same problem, same city. So did you find the rigid foam that has channels for the furring strips sold anywhere in Calgary? I found this: ABT Foam - but they are in NC.
 
 

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