Half wall question
#1
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Half wall question
I took a full wall between the dining room and kitchen down to 41" for a bar. Cut the studs, put on top plate, toed in the studs to bottom plate with screws, bottom plate to floor joist with carriage bolts and screws, put drywall (5/8) on one side and wall STILL has some movement to it... There will be granite going on top for bar so I am concerned about the wall moving. How much "play" is acceptable? There are cabinets, granite, sink, and dishwasher going on other side of wall but floor is tile, so I am not sure if that will help or if cabinets would "slide" on tile and not help... any ideas or will the cabinets fix things and I am overly concerned for nothing....
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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A regular wall is not built to provide stability in your application. First, I'll assume it wasn't a load bearing wall or suitable support was added. If your half wall is now a wing, supported at only one end, then the floating end will have only nails in the bottom of those studs. A new end post can be added and extended down into the joists below and secured there for some support. If there are any or if there is room for any partitions between the dishwasher and the cabinets that may also help.
Granite can be delicate, so IMO, you need to have a very good base for it before installation. Not something you want to replace.
Bud
Granite can be delicate, so IMO, you need to have a very good base for it before installation. Not something you want to replace.
Bud
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there is no room for partitions, the studs are attached with screws in addition to the original nails, I was thinking about putting a metal L bracket attaching the end of the wing to the floor joists (below subfloor) but wasnt sure if that would be enough. I like the idea of dropping the end-post but that would require taking it all apart which I will do if needed just as last resort...
And no is was not load bearing.
And no is was not load bearing.
#4
If I understand you right this is a stud wall behind what will be a set of cabinets. You plan to extend the granite countertop over this wall to make a breakfast bar.
If I am correct the only addition to what you already have would be to install blocking with the face (4 inch part) showing. Place it at the level necessary to tie the cabinets into it (the blocking). Place this blocking the full length of the wall. This way the cabinets and wall become one piece and it will be plenty solid to hold the countertop.
If I am correct the only addition to what you already have would be to install blocking with the face (4 inch part) showing. Place it at the level necessary to tie the cabinets into it (the blocking). Place this blocking the full length of the wall. This way the cabinets and wall become one piece and it will be plenty solid to hold the countertop.
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Ben - you are correct, however my fear of not wanting to do this twice has cause me to take out the final double stud at the end and I am going to replace with 4x4 and drop through the floor as Bud suggested. Any tricks to cutting a 4x4 square hole in the floor? I used a hole saw and sawzall to cut out the first 2x4 bottom plate but I am now hitting the floor joist under the 2nd floor plate...
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No, that is what I am trying to avoid, under this wall, there are two floor joists about 3" apart, where as the surrounding joists are what appears to be standard 16" OC should the joist be compromised with the cut it will be reinforced accordingly... Thoughts and ideas are welcome!
#8
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The 4x4 doesn't have to be right at the end. Are your joists perpendicular to the half wall or parallel? If perpendicular, then shift in so that your 4x4 is flush to the joist and built out to the end. If parallel, can you trim the 4x4 to less than 4" so it will be again flush with the joist. Hopefully you would still have at least half left. If neither is an option, consider a metal flange that bolts to the joist and extends up to secure the 4x4. If all goes together, then cross brace the joists below so 2 or 3 are providing the stability.
Bud
A little compromising should be fine.
I type too slow.
Bud
A little compromising should be fine.
I type too slow.

Last edited by Bud9051; 08-31-11 at 06:50 AM. Reason: addition
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OK, we are on the same page, the joists are parallel unfortunately so I was going to trim the beam to fit not the joist, then brace it like crazy below! I put metal T and L brackets on the studs to bottom plate and that did not help so I am hoping replacing this end post does as I am running out of options aside from hoping the cabinets fix the problem. In which case I plan on securing the cabinets to the wall and i was thinking about using adhesive to secure bottom to tiles under the toe-kick...
#10
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If you extend your post down to the bottom of the joist and then brace that joist to the adjacent ones on each side with solid blocking, then all that remains is securing your beam where it passes through the floor.
Bud
Bud