My daughter and her husband just purchased a house built in early 60's with an attached garage. It looks like sometime in the 70s (guessing by age of wood), someone cut a joist, boxed and installed an attic access ladder. Then they decked with lap&gap. The original joists are only 2x6 #2 and the span is 22' on 16" - obviously not a match, especially with a load. (Not only does it have the decking on top, it has 1/2 inch drywall - and the cut joist is already failing) My plan is to remove all the drywall and decking. Use 2x10 #2 joists joined to the existing (non-failing) 2x6s. Then use double 2x10 joist (and box) for the ladder. I don't recall what the term is for the center L-shaped 2x4 (bottom) and 2x10 that runs perpendicular to the joists, but that will go in as well. The ceiling will again be drywall (but probably the 3/8 or 1/4 inch). The question is, "Will this support decking and a some weight?" I looked at a book that put the 2x10 at 19'11" span, no weight, by itself, but will the joining of the existing 2x6 provide extra strength to handle this? TIA,

I'm in the processing of removing the soffit in my Kitchen that is over my cabinets. After removing most of the drywall, I saw that it was framed was 2' x 8' that expands the length of the kitchen. A friend who is helping thought that they might be load bearing. My house is a 1960's tri-level with a gable roof. The kitchen is on the main floor, no second floor over it. There main floor is 25' x 22' with a load bearing wall that divides the kitchen(11' x 13'),dining room(11' X 9') and living room (14' x 22). The soffit extends about 30" from the wall and housed recessed lights and L shape. The walls that the soffit is on: One wall backup against the upper and lower, and the second wall against the exteior (load bearing wall). As i stated, the framing consists of 2 x 8 on both walls. I will appreciate any help or advice. Thanks