So I live in a condo that was originally an apartment, and my master bedroom is mirrored to my neighbor's bedroom. Here is the problem. I can hear everything that he does in there...EVERYTHING. I can hear him cough, his alarm wakes us up in the morning, and most importantly when he is out his small dog barks nonstop in the room, keeping us up at night.

The project is this... Demo the existing drywall to which I am assuming there is no insulation. Then apply 2 layers of insulation and redrywall. My question is what would be better than that? I know soundproofing is very expensive, I just want to make it as quiet as possible other options I heard were soundboard and using quietrock, which I hear is expensive.

Will my double layer of insulation work? is there a type of drywall that I can also apply to help? All help is appreciated.

PS I plan on starting this 7AM the morning after he gets home from his bender, its my only immature way to get him back before I do this project.

 

Welcome to the forums!

How do you intend to install 2 layers of insulation? are you going to frame out a new wall in front of the existing wall?

Insulation and sound proofing isn't my area of expertise but I've heard that you can install sytrofoam between 2 layers of drywall to get more sound proofing. I'm sure some of the others will be along shortly with better advice

 

Thank you for the welcome!

And no I plan on just reusing the existing wall studs, staple the insulation in there in opposing directions, I was directed toward the styrofoam route by a guy at the Home Depot, but I have read it is not as effective, I am not 100% sure if I am right though so I thought I would get some DIY input, thank you for the suggestion!!

 

The problem with forcing twice as much insulation in the wall framing is - when insulation is compressed, it's not as effective

 

Mark is right, you will make the insulation less effective by compressing it.
Are you sure that there is no insulation in the wall?
Your wall should be insulated and sheeted with either a single or double layer of fireguard drywall.........It would be odd for it to not be insulated.

You can add fiberglass insulation to the wall cavity if there is none and replace the drywall with fire resistant type.
You could also add more insulation by strapping the finished drywall with 2x2's, installing 1 1/2" closed cell foam-board then adding another layer of fire resistant drywall.

 

So you think addind a second layer of drywall with foam should do the trick? I am not sure if there is any insulation, I will give it a check tomorrow, I just can't see how there would be any in there if I can hear him so clearly. Plus I am so glad I am asking about this before I do it, I had no idea insulation is inaffective when doubled. What about some soundboard between those 2x2's? would that be more effective than foam? Thank you all again!!!

 

Compressing insulation does reduce the effectiveness when it comes to INSULATION, but does help a little regarding sound, Using proper cavity materials, like mineral wool (Roxul or similar) is far more effective than fiber glass because it is heavier and does not transmit as much sound.

The more mass is in the wall (drywall in your case), the more effective. Thicker drywall is better. Attaching it with resilient clips will greatly cut the sound transmission from vibrations.

Very often, the audible sounds (talking, coughing, breathing, TV) from adjacent rooms are transmitted through electrical boxes in the same stud cavity, so anything you can do to prevent sound from entering into or escaping the cavity is a big step forward.

Dick

 

I was thinking about the clips but I thought they were more for low freq sounds? And yes thank you I found this putty that you can form around the outlet boxes from the inside of the wall to prevent transfer, I am even caulking all of the edges with soundproof caulk. So what do you think Dick. Greg, and Mark, demo drywall, add a layer of roxul, putty the boxes, clips and a fireproof drywall??

 

The only way out, if it works at all is cork. Personally, I would sell & go somewhere else but if you want to take a shot at it, I would rent some equipment that measures decibels. Then see what material would be needed to kill the noise. The site below explains some of what you need to know.

Sound Control, sound deadening,Soundproofing How To

 

Before I took down the drywall, I'd check for insulation! You might be able to tell by removing the electrical covers and trying to look along or behind them. If that doesn't tell you much, cut a hole in the drywall to inspect. Try to be halfway neat with the cut so if it is insulated you can replace that piece of drywall.

If you add drywall/insulation on top of the existing wall you'll need to make provisions for the electrical. The make elec extension boxes but I don't know what sizes they come in. You might need to rehang the boxes so they work with the new wall. How old is the building?

 

Everyone is getting there so I will add my comments. There is insulation and isolation. If the studs you are connecting to are the same ones his walls are connected to you will need to isolate your sheetrock from his, ie the clips Dick mentioned.

The decibel meter could be a good place to start as you may have a hole between your units hidden in the wall for plumbing or electrical. Shame to tear everything apart for one small area.

I just installed my first Roxul and way above fiberglass on density. They even have a safe and sound product specifically for the job.

IMO, it won't be one thing that solves your problem, because it all adds up. Since you only want to do this once, do it all at once.

When everything is back together you can even hang some tapestry on the wall as an added measure.

Bud

 

All of our duplexes and townhomes are built with two walls between the units and the floor gets cut between them as well - solid materials transmit sound very well so we have done what can reasonably be done to isolate them from each other.

 

Bud,
I hate to tell people when they are wrong, but I opened up a small hole to take a peek and there is no insulation...They must have spent $10 making this place!! There is seperate framing and the studs are staggered, but nothing between the drywall, no wonder I can hear everything that is going on.

Mark,
The building is 10 years old, I don't think using a decibel meter is really necessary I am thinking now with seperate walls I have my game plan.

I am going to demo the drywall (can't wait) then put up the Roxul Safe and Sound, then QuietRock 510 1/2 inch drywall, with the sound deadening putty around the electrical outlets. I am going to try and record this process and maybe have it as an instructional video for people, the project will be started within the next 3 or 4 weeks, I have a hectic schedule with school, work, and school related volunteering. Thank you all so much for this information I got a lot from everyone and I will at the very least give some pics of before during and after for the project to let you see your help in action!!!

 

Sounds like a plan

I would have thought insulation between units would have been code in a bldg only 10yrs old..... unlike one built 40-50 yrs ago. Wonder what else they went cheap on

 

I am actually looking into that, it hit me that there is nothing in there at all but drywall, so I am going to my property manager tomorrow and see what he says, but I think I am going to have the county code enforcment fella come take a look and see what a possible plan of action is here, my step father was a contractor and is leading me in this new direction as he said the same thing you did. speaking of cheap...every unit has a sliding glass door either upstairs or downstairs, they were supposed to have balconies but they were over budget so we just have an awkward slding door that leads to nothing upstairs...i have no idea why we bought this place, it is in a very nice part of town and neighborhood and they look amazing, but they have their flaws for sure. I will let you know what they say tomorrow

 

i think the double layer on insulation will work, especially since you said you don't think their is any at all. you will probably be able to tell a big difference. i wouldn't go into all the hassle of sound proofing it though. hope your plan works out for you.