Drywall
#1
09-28-11, 04:42 PM
Drywall
Installing sheetrock around the front door and not sure whether to cut to the door jamb, or cut the sheetrock back to allow for the trim?
Also cut the opening for a 3 gang box about 1/4" too wide and the standard size cover does not quite cover the gap. Wonder if a quick fix would be to try and locate a large face cover plate; or, since the sheetrock is tacked in place with several screws whether it would be best to remove and install a small patch.
Any suggestions, comments appreciated!! dave
Also cut the opening for a 3 gang box about 1/4" too wide and the standard size cover does not quite cover the gap. Wonder if a quick fix would be to try and locate a large face cover plate; or, since the sheetrock is tacked in place with several screws whether it would be best to remove and install a small patch.
Any suggestions, comments appreciated!! dave
#2
09-28-11, 07:29 PM
Group Moderator
It is best to cut the rock to the rough opening. This will leave you a little room to install insulation between the rough opening and the finished door jamb.
A jumbo plate will work but I don't like the looks of them. Looks like a mistake to an electrician.
If you can fix it now before the taping it would be a cheap fix. Sheetrock is cheap.
BTW - If you just try to fill the gap with mud it will just break out when you install the switches.
A jumbo plate will work but I don't like the looks of them. Looks like a mistake to an electrician.
If you can fix it now before the taping it would be a cheap fix. Sheetrock is cheap.BTW - If you just try to fill the gap with mud it will just break out when you install the switches.
#3
09-28-11, 08:14 PM
Thanx for the suggestion, yes, as you mentioned, best to replace while in the beginning stage. Recently installed 1/2" sheetrock, as a 1st timer, in small kitchen and found going over patch repairs, etc., for the finishing coat can be time consuming. Also, now moved to the living room using 5/8th sheetrock and finding it not quite as easy to work with as the 1/2" and generally a big pain in the backside. Again, really appreciate your input.
Originally Posted by Tolyn Ironhand
It is best to cut the rock to the rough opening. This will leave you a little room to install insulation between the rough opening and the finished door jamb.
A jumbo plate will work but I don't like the looks of them. Looks like a mistake to an electrician. If you can fix it now before the taping it would be a cheap fix. Sheetrock is cheap.
BTW - If you just try to fill the gap with mud it will just break out when you install the switches.
A jumbo plate will work but I don't like the looks of them. Looks like a mistake to an electrician.
If you can fix it now before the taping it would be a cheap fix. Sheetrock is cheap.BTW - If you just try to fill the gap with mud it will just break out when you install the switches.
#4
09-29-11, 04:11 AM
Just a "too late" question, but why did you go with 5/8" sheetrock? Total PITA, heavy, and probably not necessary. As Scott said, replacing a piece of sheetrock around the box would look better than popped out mud 6 months from now. I use either a rotozip or other tool and run the bit along the rough framing. that opening needs attention for insulation, etc. and will be covered by case molding anyway.
#5
09-29-11, 04:41 AM
If you must patch the hole around the elec box with j/c - use drywall tape, it will give the repair a fighting chance.
The 5/8" drywall will help to make for a stronger, straighter wall. The older I get the more I'm starting to like 3/8" drywall
The 5/8" drywall will help to make for a stronger, straighter wall. The older I get the more I'm starting to like 3/8" drywall
#6
09-29-11, 07:25 AM
Member
If the overcut on the switch box is on the stud side you can fix it with mud and tape.
If it's on the other side just mud will eventually fail. Instead of taking down the entire piece of drywall think about enlarging the goof a bit and then cutting a patch to fit.
I was also curious about the 5/8" DW in a living room. I don't see the need. My next DW project will probably be done with the 1/2" lightweight stuff they sell at big orange.
If it's on the other side just mud will eventually fail. Instead of taking down the entire piece of drywall think about enlarging the goof a bit and then cutting a patch to fit.
I was also curious about the 5/8" DW in a living room. I don't see the need. My next DW project will probably be done with the 1/2" lightweight stuff they sell at big orange.
#7
09-29-11, 07:31 AM
Originally Posted by chandler
Just a "too late" question, but why did you go with 5/8" sheetrock? Total PITA, heavy, and probably not necessary. As Scott said, replacing a piece of sheetrock around the box would look better than popped out mud 6 months from now. I use either a rotozip or other tool and run the bit along the rough framing. that opening needs attention for insulation, etc. and will be covered by case molding anyway.
#8
09-29-11, 07:45 AM
There is no support behind the gap but fortunately I only tacked the panel inplace while contemplating a remedy. Probly best to make another attempt at cutting another piece and hopefully have better results. Appreciate the input!! dave
Originally Posted by Wayne Mitchell
If the overcut on the switch box is on the stud side you can fix it with mud and tape.
If it's on the other side just mud will eventually fail. Instead of taking down the entire piece of drywall think about enlarging the goof a bit and then cutting a patch to fit.
I was also curious about the 5/8" DW in a living room. I don't see the need. My next DW project will probably be done with the 1/2" lightweight stuff they sell at big orange.
If it's on the other side just mud will eventually fail. Instead of taking down the entire piece of drywall think about enlarging the goof a bit and then cutting a patch to fit.
I was also curious about the 5/8" DW in a living room. I don't see the need. My next DW project will probably be done with the 1/2" lightweight stuff they sell at big orange.
