bathroom arch peeling


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Old 10-18-11, 07:21 PM
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bathroom arch peeling

Hi - I'm a new first time homeowner and am so thankful to find a place like this! I have noticed a problem in my bathroom and want to fix it quick before it becomes even more of an issue. Here it is...

There is an arch over my bathtub. To the best of my knowledge this arch is drywall - nothing special to account for moisture. The paint on the underside of the arch is starting to peel and bubble. I cannot see any evidence whatsoever of mold at this point, but I want to take care of this before it gets any worse.

My question is this, can I sand and tile this archway even though it is drywall? I've read conflicting things about tiling over drywall in a shower. This is not exactly in the shower, but it is frequently exposed to moisture/condensation, so pretty much the same thing.

If the answer is yes, tile over it, what is the best way to go about doing that (do I need to use some kind of waterproof sealant, special grout, etc?)

If the answer is no, don't tile over it, how could I fix it instead?

Thanks for the advice!!

Also, here's a link to a couple pictures that may make things clearer... https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2498...0Arch?h=c80625
 
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Old 10-19-11, 04:13 AM
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Welcome to the forums Carla!

You should be able to use tile on the arch but I'm a painter not a tile guy.

The main reason for the damage is the wrong paint was used I suspect it was painted with a flat latex, it should have been a latex enamel. Interior flat paints can absorb moisture, enamels will repel moisture.

You'll need to do more than just sand I'd scrape off whatever is loose [prime if there is dust that won't wipe off] and then fill in the low spots with joint compound. Once the repair is done and sanded, don't forget to remove the dust, then prime with a latex wall primer followed by 2 coats of a latex enamel [any sheen] a bath rm paint would be even better. They have extra mildewcides and are formulated for the harsher environment of the bath rm.
 
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Old 10-21-11, 10:37 PM
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Carla, I'm not a painter or a tiler, but I've done enough of both to have a few opinions.

If your plan is to definitely tile the arch, I wouldn't worry about the peeling paint (unless you have some kind of unlikely leak in the attic--have you been up there yet to take a look?). You need to install a cement-based tile backer-board wherever the tile will be placed (get a recommendation from where you buy the tile), using screws made for that purpose. The curve of the arch should be no problem, as you can approximate the existing curve by scoring the back of the backer-board transversely. Thinner backer will be easier to work with than thicker. Use a thin-set tile grout also recommended by the tile supplier to set the tiles, allowing plenty of curing time before grouting the openings between tiles.

Should you decide to paint instead of tile, I agree with the previous post, but don't know if I'd go through all of the coats he's recommending. A good prime coat of Kilz followed by a quality topcoat of your choice should do the trick. After vigorously scraping all of the loose paint off first, of course.
 
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Old 10-22-11, 04:17 AM
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"don't know if I'd go through all of the coats he's recommending"

Normally 1 coat of primer and 1 coat of latex enamel would be ok but since there has been a issue with moisture deteriorating the paint and drywall coupled with the fact that there probably isn't an exhaust vent above the shower - I figure the drywall could use the extra protection...... and no bigger than the area is, it wouldn't be that much more work
 
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Old 10-24-11, 10:11 AM
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I almost always apply two coats of paint when I paint, it's not much more marginal work compared to the upfront work every time you start a new painting job.
 
 

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