Expanding a header in a load bearing wall
#1
01-03-12, 03:09 PM
Expanding a header in a load bearing wall
Okay,
I have a load bearing wall. The current header is 6'4" wide. I want to increase the opening to 10'4". The wall is vaulted on one side and flat on the on other.
In the attic there are two 2x6 stood up from end to end running from the top plate of the wall to the ridge of the roof. They are seperated by 10' or so.
The current header is (2)2x6.
Questions:
1. How do I support the vaulted side while I replace header.
2. How large of a header do I need to go back with. (2)2x10
I have 11.5" from bottom of current header to bottom of wall plate.
I really need help figuring out how to brace up and still allow room to ger a 2X10 header in place.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
JPeePaul
I have a load bearing wall. The current header is 6'4" wide. I want to increase the opening to 10'4". The wall is vaulted on one side and flat on the on other.
In the attic there are two 2x6 stood up from end to end running from the top plate of the wall to the ridge of the roof. They are seperated by 10' or so.
The current header is (2)2x6.
Questions:
1. How do I support the vaulted side while I replace header.
2. How large of a header do I need to go back with. (2)2x10
I have 11.5" from bottom of current header to bottom of wall plate.
I really need help figuring out how to brace up and still allow room to ger a 2X10 header in place.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
JPeePaul
#2
01-03-12, 03:35 PM
Group Moderator
Assuming that the ceiling joists on the flat ceiling and the floor joists in the floor run perpendicular to the new header, I would build a temporary wall on each side of the opening that will be at least as long as your new header will be. Do this about 12" away from the wall on each side so that you have about 24" between walls to maneuver. Screw a top plate to the ceiling on each side, set a sill plate on the floor and attach all your framing to the top plate and sill plate with screws. Cross brace the wall diagonally on each side, placing the crossbracing in opposite directions on either side of the temporary wall. Once the temporary walls are built, you should be able to remove the existing header and wall.
If I was doing it, I'd get two 2x12x11' LVL's and use them for your header. You'll want to plan to have 2 trimmers under the new header on each side, so your header should be 6" longer than your rough opening is wide.
I am assuming that the vertical framing in the attic is temporary bracing to help hold up the ridge (or other roof framing) as the house was being built. You probably don't have to worry about that bracing being load bearing, but if you wanted to snap some pictures of it and upload them to a site like picasa or photobucket, you could paste the link to the pics in your next reply and we'll take a look at it.
If I was doing it, I'd get two 2x12x11' LVL's and use them for your header. You'll want to plan to have 2 trimmers under the new header on each side, so your header should be 6" longer than your rough opening is wide.
I am assuming that the vertical framing in the attic is temporary bracing to help hold up the ridge (or other roof framing) as the house was being built. You probably don't have to worry about that bracing being load bearing, but if you wanted to snap some pictures of it and upload them to a site like picasa or photobucket, you could paste the link to the pics in your next reply and we'll take a look at it.
#3
01-03-12, 07:30 PM
Ok so I can build a temporary wall on the catherdral side as well? I was unsure if the angle would allow the temporary wall to hold any weight.
Pardon my novice, what is a LVL?
Now that you mention the vertical framing in the attic possibly being temporary makes perfect sense as it appears to be impossible to hold any real weight.
Thank you for your time.
Pardon my novice, what is a LVL?
Now that you mention the vertical framing in the attic possibly being temporary makes perfect sense as it appears to be impossible to hold any real weight.
Thank you for your time.
#4
01-03-12, 07:38 PM
Group Moderator
Both walls together should hold any live load. A LVL is an engineered lumber that is stronger, and straighter than nominal SPF lumber. Two of them glued and nailed together would form your header, and since they are 1 3/4" thick, there is no need for a plywood spacer.
You will want to open up the floor and check that you have solid blocking under your king studs and trimmers so as to transfer the weight of the header to the framing below. If it's a load bearing wall, the floor joists will usually have blocking installed between them directly below the wall plate.
You will want to open up the floor and check that you have solid blocking under your king studs and trimmers so as to transfer the weight of the header to the framing below. If it's a load bearing wall, the floor joists will usually have blocking installed between them directly below the wall plate.
