My wall is framed and drywall is hung, now I need help!
#1
01-30-12, 08:31 PM
My wall is framed and drywall is hung, now I need help!
I decided to build a wall between my dining room and living room. There was already a 1 ft divider coming down from the ceiling, so I framed the wall to attach to this, and to lower it another foot. Everything went well, it's framed and the drywall is up, but now I have some problems I've run into:
1. The original wall divider was rounded at the edges, so I have a small gap between the rounded edge of the existing wall and the square edge of my drywall. Do I just mud the gap and carry on?
2. Do I have to do anything (sand, etc.) the existing walls in order to mud and tape the corners where the new wall meets it? Or will I be OK just mudding and taping? The walls have the orange peel texture to them and are already painted.
3. Do I use corner bead on the inside and outside corners? I saw an item at Lowes that looked almost like a metal corner bead, but it had tape attached to it. Could I use this instead of having to screw the corner bead in? Which would be easier? Can corner beading be used on the outside AND inside corners?
And I do want to apologize if I haven't describe this correctly.
Any help and/or advice will be greatly appreciated!
1. The original wall divider was rounded at the edges, so I have a small gap between the rounded edge of the existing wall and the square edge of my drywall. Do I just mud the gap and carry on?
2. Do I have to do anything (sand, etc.) the existing walls in order to mud and tape the corners where the new wall meets it? Or will I be OK just mudding and taping? The walls have the orange peel texture to them and are already painted.
3. Do I use corner bead on the inside and outside corners? I saw an item at Lowes that looked almost like a metal corner bead, but it had tape attached to it. Could I use this instead of having to screw the corner bead in? Which would be easier? Can corner beading be used on the outside AND inside corners?
And I do want to apologize if I haven't describe this correctly.
Any help and/or advice will be greatly appreciated!
#2
01-30-12, 09:10 PM
Group Moderator
Its almost ALWAYS best to remove existing corner bead BEFORE you frame and drywall up against the existing, so that you can butt drywall to drywall. Corner bead and the successive coats make the wall a bit thicker than your standard framing (1/2 + 3 1/2 + 1/2), which will leave a hump in the wall unless it's removed. If it's too late to do that, then yes, you would need to prefill that space (use durabond setting compound to fill this gap) and let it dry prior to bedding your tape.
You do not have to sand the painted surfaces prior to adding more tape and mud. You may have trouble matching the texture as you try to blend the new and the old, however. If that's the case, the entire wall could be sanded, skimmed twice (once vertically then sand, once horizontally, then sand) and retextured.
Generally you only use metal corner bead on outside corners, not inside corners. On inside corners you use just the paper tape, crease it, and bed it into the corner. The corners with the tape are fine for outside corners if that's what you want to use, I prefer the plain old metal ones. And if the corner bead is metal, you don't screw it on you nail it on. Screws tend to dimple the corner bead when you try to countersink them and the corner bead may dimple as a result.
You do not have to sand the painted surfaces prior to adding more tape and mud. You may have trouble matching the texture as you try to blend the new and the old, however. If that's the case, the entire wall could be sanded, skimmed twice (once vertically then sand, once horizontally, then sand) and retextured.
Generally you only use metal corner bead on outside corners, not inside corners. On inside corners you use just the paper tape, crease it, and bed it into the corner. The corners with the tape are fine for outside corners if that's what you want to use, I prefer the plain old metal ones. And if the corner bead is metal, you don't screw it on you nail it on. Screws tend to dimple the corner bead when you try to countersink them and the corner bead may dimple as a result.
#3
01-30-12, 10:07 PM
Dang it. It is too late to remove the rounded corner bead 
I do have some durabond that I'll use to fill the gap, thank you!! For some reason, the wall doesn't seem to hump out, maybe I got lucky somehow! I used 5/8" drywall, maybe that's why?
The texture shouldn't be an issue (did I just jinx myself?), as I'm going to use the spray can orange peel. I've already used it on my bathroom walls with much practice, but with success. I'd have to skim and sand 3 walls, which I really don't want to do. haha
Thank you so much for the advice on the corners! I think I'm going to go with the metal that's attached to tape, it seems like it's easier. If you disagree, please let me know. I've never used it before so I'm open to opinions. You don't nail in the metal/tape corners, do you? Also, do you mud over the metal corners, or do you tape then mud over them? And is it OK to use a 4" knife to do all the mud work or should I buy other ones?
I do have some durabond that I'll use to fill the gap, thank you!! For some reason, the wall doesn't seem to hump out, maybe I got lucky somehow! I used 5/8" drywall, maybe that's why?The texture shouldn't be an issue (did I just jinx myself?), as I'm going to use the spray can orange peel. I've already used it on my bathroom walls with much practice, but with success. I'd have to skim and sand 3 walls, which I really don't want to do. haha
Thank you so much for the advice on the corners! I think I'm going to go with the metal that's attached to tape, it seems like it's easier. If you disagree, please let me know. I've never used it before so I'm open to opinions. You don't nail in the metal/tape corners, do you? Also, do you mud over the metal corners, or do you tape then mud over them? And is it OK to use a 4" knife to do all the mud work or should I buy other ones?
#4
01-31-12, 05:30 AM
do you mud over the metal corners
You'll need a wider knife! I usually use an offset 3" for the tape coat, then a 6" and apply the finish coat of mud with a 10" or 12" You need at least an 10" knife for the final coat of j/c.
#5
01-31-12, 09:36 AM
Yes, I meant the corner beading (sorry!).
So, does this mean that you just prime/paint/texture right on top of the metal?
I went ahead and bought a 10" knife, thanks for the suggestion!
Also, what does j/c stand for?
Thanks!
So, does this mean that you just prime/paint/texture right on top of the metal?
I went ahead and bought a 10" knife, thanks for the suggestion!
Also, what does j/c stand for?
Thanks!
#6
01-31-12, 03:16 PM
j/c = joint compound ..... lazy man's way of saving a few key strokes 
You apply j/c over the corner bead. Basically you use the edge as a guide for one side of the knife as the other side floats the mud out over the drywall. Once 2-3 coats of mud is applied, you shouldn't be able to tell the corner bead is there other than the thin strip of the edge that may or may not show. The very point of the edge doesn't normally get covered with j/c and once primed and painted, it won't show.
You apply j/c over the corner bead. Basically you use the edge as a guide for one side of the knife as the other side floats the mud out over the drywall. Once 2-3 coats of mud is applied, you shouldn't be able to tell the corner bead is there other than the thin strip of the edge that may or may not show. The very point of the edge doesn't normally get covered with j/c and once primed and painted, it won't show.
