Garage ceiling....
#1
02-25-12, 03:30 AM
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Garage ceiling....
Attached 2-car garage 21' x 24'. I've removed the "popcorn" and re-mudded all seams, sanded smooth, ready to prime.
To that, read on-line that an oil based primer is best for garages. Local Sherwin Williams dealer says no way; latex primer to latex paint. True?
To the ceiling, I want something textured but don't want to spray. Same Sherwin Williams dealer recommends drywall mud mixed with some paint; apply with a textured roller and I'd be pleased. Then paint over it with color of choice, white for me.
Is that drywall mud solution effective? Enduring enough? Thank you. --Bryant
To that, read on-line that an oil based primer is best for garages. Local Sherwin Williams dealer says no way; latex primer to latex paint. True?
To the ceiling, I want something textured but don't want to spray. Same Sherwin Williams dealer recommends drywall mud mixed with some paint; apply with a textured roller and I'd be pleased. Then paint over it with color of choice, white for me.
Is that drywall mud solution effective? Enduring enough? Thank you. --Bryant
#2
02-25-12, 05:11 AM
I agree with your SWP dealer that oil base primer shouldn't be needed. Oil primer will give the drywall a slight moisture resistance advantage but a latex primer top coated with a latex enamel [any sheen] is almost as good and a lot easier to work with. Oil base paint can be applied over latex primer and latex paint can be applied over oil base primer. It all depends on the application as to which method/coating is preferred.
Joint compound thinned down and rolled on will texture the walls. The roller cover that is used will also determine the look of the texture. It is very important to roll it in a consistent manner/direction as that can affect how the texture looks. Texture rolled on will last just as well as sprayed on texture. IMO sprayed texture looks better and other than dealing with overspray is easier to do - any special reason you don't want to spray the texture? The equipment needed can be rented.
Joint compound thinned down and rolled on will texture the walls. The roller cover that is used will also determine the look of the texture. It is very important to roll it in a consistent manner/direction as that can affect how the texture looks. Texture rolled on will last just as well as sprayed on texture. IMO sprayed texture looks better and other than dealing with overspray is easier to do - any special reason you don't want to spray the texture? The equipment needed can be rented.
#3
02-25-12, 10:59 AM
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Mr Moderator: I am the spouse of armyaviator and am helping with the garage project.
We have had to re-tape and mud the ceiling and walls. I have painted and done normal sheetrock repir to paint for many years. There are hairline cracks in a number of places on the walls. I have sanded and added drywall mud and still some are cracking. The weather here in south Alabama has really dried up over the last 24 hours and I have found more cracks today. We are novices, at best, at drywall taping and mudding, and I resorted yesterday to gouging the cracks and adding more mud. Do I need to wait longer than 6 hours to add mud? Is there any other option than the gouging our redoing the tap to stop the cracks? The house is on a slab and the walls I have worked on doesn't seem to have any movement or play. I have worked on the same wall for about 5 days. I don't give up easily, but I have to say I am almost at my wits end. Please help.
We have had to re-tape and mud the ceiling and walls. I have painted and done normal sheetrock repir to paint for many years. There are hairline cracks in a number of places on the walls. I have sanded and added drywall mud and still some are cracking. The weather here in south Alabama has really dried up over the last 24 hours and I have found more cracks today. We are novices, at best, at drywall taping and mudding, and I resorted yesterday to gouging the cracks and adding more mud. Do I need to wait longer than 6 hours to add mud? Is there any other option than the gouging our redoing the tap to stop the cracks? The house is on a slab and the walls I have worked on doesn't seem to have any movement or play. I have worked on the same wall for about 5 days. I don't give up easily, but I have to say I am almost at my wits end. Please help.
#4
02-25-12, 01:47 PM
Welcome Pauline!
Are these cracks in the new j/c? or is it the old mud that has the cracks?
The 2 main causes of cracking j/c is settlement and/or applied too thick. Scratching out the cracks and refilling them is normally the best fix. If there is a drywall joint or crack - use drywall tape. It's best for the j/c to be completely dry before more is added. You can tell it's dry by the color. The j/c will be completely white when dry, if there is any gray, it's still damp.
Are these cracks in the new j/c? or is it the old mud that has the cracks?
The 2 main causes of cracking j/c is settlement and/or applied too thick. Scratching out the cracks and refilling them is normally the best fix. If there is a drywall joint or crack - use drywall tape. It's best for the j/c to be completely dry before more is added. You can tell it's dry by the color. The j/c will be completely white when dry, if there is any gray, it's still damp.
#5
02-26-12, 04:14 AM
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Sorry to have not made that clear; yes, the cracks are where the tape has been replaced. Some cracks run down the middle of the taped area and others run on either edge of where the tape is. As of yesterday, I am waiting at least over night to sand and reapply more mud. I am hanging in there. Thanks for the help/
