Repair Jagged Bathroom Wall


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Old 06-17-12, 11:57 PM
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Repair Jagged Bathroom Wall

We're remodeling our bathroom, but when we did the demolition job around the tub/shower area (removal of bathroom tiles and backer), we also tore off some of the plaster wall and backing adjacent to the tiled area. We've installed the cement board in the area to be tiled, but I was wondering what would be the best way to repair the non-tiled wall area? Is there a simple patching solution?
 
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Old 06-18-12, 03:09 AM
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I gather this will be a demarcation point for the tile versus the painted surface. It doesn't look like plaster, but sheetrock. You may can achieve a decent result by installing a backer rod in the hole and taping with alkali resistant mesh tape, then a setting type sheetrock compound. It is harder and will set faster than the bucket type. It usually comes in powder form and you mix it to a peanut butter or less consistency.
 
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Old 06-18-12, 07:46 PM
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Thank you for the advice! There's about a 2 inch to 6 inch gap between the cement board and plaster wall depending on the area. The construction of the wall is weird too as in some areas, its layered as drywall/rock lath/plaster (in layer order from studs) and in other areas its drywall/plaster. Does backer rod come in a larger width to work well filling such large gaps? Also, can it be applied directly to the studs or should I cover the studs with a tarp or something?
 
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Old 06-19-12, 02:12 PM
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Back up one screen. 2 to 6" gap???? YOu need to cut it back, install backer lumber, replace the sheetrock/plaster. Your pix looked like a 1/2" or so gap.
 
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Old 06-19-12, 02:31 PM
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I was going to suggest that too Larry. So here's a little more detail for what he's saying:

you cut that gap open and make it wide enough so that you can insert some framing into the wall. So let's say that your cbu is plumb, and the end of it is screwed to a stud. You'll basically need to cut (with a reciprocating saw) a nice plumb line that is maybe 2" to the right of the edge of your cbu. take a 2x4 that is cut to length, and slip it into that 2" hole, then turn it sideways and slide it left until it butts into the existing stud. A little construction adhesive there might be a good idea. Screw a couple screws into the 2x4 if you need a handle to hold onto, while you screw one side of that 2x4 to the sheetrock on the right side of the cut you made and angle some screws through the 2x4 to catch the existing 2x4 on the left. Once you're done, your 2x4 will be the backer that you will screw some new drywall to, which you will then be able to tape and finish after your tile is installed.

If the gap is really 6" in places, you might be better off if you cut the drywall back to the next stud so that you can have access to the wall cavity, and then just add a new stud on each side and then you will have something on both sides to screw the new drywall to.
 
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Old 06-19-12, 04:32 PM
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My "word" man! Thanks...............
 
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Old 06-20-12, 07:04 AM
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Thanks for the advice. We did exactly what you said and it feels so good to have the edges flush now!
 
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Old 06-20-12, 02:03 PM
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Glad it worked out and glad XSleeper took the time to put things in order for you. Let us know how the project goes. We like to see finished project pix.
 
 

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