It seems my remodel project may be starting within the next few months. When installing drywall, what is the screw pattern to be used? How many on the edge and how many in the field? I have cathedrialized ceilings so I need to mate drywall at approx 45 degree angle. Should I leave the overlapping sheet with a square edge, or angle it to get a tighter fit?

 

I put 7 screws on the 4' ends, then in the field, I put 6 across- one on each end then pairs of screws about 3 - 4" apart, 16" OC. It would be like having screws at 14", 18", 30", 34" in the field. You can wipe and sand the pairs of screws with one motion each... instead of spacing screws at 12", 24", 36", having one less screw, and then having 3 spots to sand. Always use 5/8" rock on ceilings.

On the 45's, it works best to miter the drywall together. Cut it square, then cut about 1/4" of paper off the back side with your knife, using your thumb as a guide, ur just trying to backcut the back edge just a little bit here. Use your drywall rasp to straighten the cut edges... but don't hit the paper on the front edge with the rasp- also make sure you don't put a recessed finish joint anywhere corner bead will go.

 

As a full time drywaller for almost 20 yrs i have found using glue is a huge time saver. On walls we put a blob of glue every 16" instead of screwing the fields of the drywall. We screw the perimiter but unless the board feels loose in the middle i let the glue do its job. If it is a 14-16' sheet i might pop a couple screws in because it tends to bow a bit. Ceilings i would use a line of glue and screw every 12". As far as the joint at the peak of the cathederal ceiling you can attempt to score it and bend to make a finished corner but that rarely works and will give a weak joint. I use No-Coat because it gives a strong joint and gives you a perfect straight corner. No coat is a plastic/paper type of corner bead. Google it.

 

What's the reason for this? Seems like it would be a good way for the corner bead to not stick out past the drywall. Then you have a better chance at a 90 degree corner. Not that it will matter much in my case.

 

When you put corner bead on a recessed edge, the point of the corner does not always protrude sufficiently to get a good coat of mud over the entire corner bead. Depending on how tight it was pushed back to the wall when it was installed, it can even cause the metal to show through in spots when you try and sand it. It needs to protrude just a little, just like it does on a vertical wall corner where the drywall has been hung horizontally.

And I agree- the no-coat *is* the best product for the ridge joint and the 45's.

 

How is the no-coat installed? Just like paper tape? Lay some mud and then press it in?

 

Yep, you wipe it down just like you would paper tape. Theoretically it would take just one more coat after that to finish it, but an additional skim coat is almost always needed. They have videos on their web site.

The name no-coat is funny. Makes it sound like it doesn't take any work at all. LOL

 

Commercial guys are required to install screws every 8" on the edges and 12" in the field.