I have a basement that has paneling. One of the walls is an exterior wall, and it has cinder blocks and then insulation and then the paneling. I am going to paint over the paneling ultimately.

Occasionally, there have been water leaks coming from that cinder block wall. I am going to remove the paneling and insulation temporarily and apply dry lock extreme to that wall.

My question is, since that cinder block wall is prone to water leaks, does it make sense for me to re-install new insulation. I think the insulation becomes abreeing ground for mold and mildew. Is there a type of insulation that can get wet and not be ruined? What do you suggest?

 

What makes sense is to stop the water from entering the wall from the outside. This can be accomplished by assuring proper rain water redirection away from the foundation, primarily. A proper seal on the outside of the wall with a weeping tile set up will carry water safely away should it get that deep.
Interior waterproofing is not what it is cut out to be. No insulation can take water and not show signs of mold or mildew

 

Thank you for the response. Part of the problem with stopping the water from the outside is that the house in that area is surrounded by a cement walkway and cement patio.

I dont know how to redirect the water with the cement there.

So, do you think it is better to go without the insulation in the basement on that exterior wall?

 

If the wall is below grade, yes, as it isn't needed. The temperature of the wall will remain constant anyway, year round. I would not build anything in the area such as framing until the water problem is solved.

 

A below grade basement wall is a wall that is entirely underground?

 

Maybe not entirely, but at least half-way.

What happens to the runoff in that area now?

 

Sounds like it may be a big project but I agree with Chandler - I wouldn't finish that area of the basement until the water problem was resolved from the outside.

 

The best way to deal with this, is to dig up the concrete and create a open ditch, round your home. Dig down to foundation level, wait for it to rain, and then ascertain where the water is coming from, and where its going.

Once you know exactly where the water is coming from, then you can come back for advice.

 

I wouldn’t use Drylock on the blocks. It just directs the water/moisture elsewhere to collect or pool. If impossible to redirect the surface water, either install an interior drainage system (Fig. 1) with drilling holes in the bottom of each block cavity to drain to a sump pump, exterior discharge. OR, if the water is slight, install XPS on the concrete with compatible adhesive and drywall over that. The foamboard will not mold and can take the wetness all season. Basements are +- 55* year round, the problem is the indoor air dew point will cause condensation at certain times of year, if not insulated. The insulation (f.b.) moves the dew point to the f.b./concrete block joint where it won’t have much effect (not in the cavity on batt insulation or wood framing). Page #4, next to Photo 2: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...g-your-basment

Left uncovered (no insulation), you will have condensation/pooling water unless the basement RH is controlled and/or the water problem.

Gary

 

Water vapor in the home is created by people, animals, indoor plants, fish tanks.
Take these away and there is no humidity, condensation.
The question therefore, is what are you going to use the space for?
What sort of heating will you have, how warm will it be,
what sort of ventilation will you have?
Have you checked for radon gas?
Radon gas causes lung cancer.