painting knockdown texture on drywall
#1
09-15-12, 07:13 AM
painting knockdown texture on drywall
I had to put back up a 8 ft high x 1 1/2 wide piece of drywall after I had the epoxy injection because of a small water leak. I went to Sherwin Williams to have them match the paint type with the drywall so it was exact.
I used spackling & primer as well as spray knockdown texture (since the area was so small).
Why does the paint look shiny from the side? II put 2 coats on the left and rights lines. Then I added a second coat on just the left side to test out how much of the shine will be left over. It can't be the paint can it?
I used spackling & primer as well as spray knockdown texture (since the area was so small).
Why does the paint look shiny from the side? II put 2 coats on the left and rights lines. Then I added a second coat on just the left side to test out how much of the shine will be left over. It can't be the paint can it?
#2
09-15-12, 10:57 AM
Group Moderator
#3
09-15-12, 12:00 PM
Did you prime the texture? Also you say you had SWP match the paint, does that mean you don't know what paint was originally used? Any competent paint store can match most any color but each brand is subject to have slight sheen differences in the paint. There isn't an industry standard for sheen levels. You can have 2 gallons of satin enamel from the same manufacture but in different lines and the sheen can be slightly different.
The fix is easy - paint the wall from corner to corner. No one will be able to tell any slight differences in the new and old paint that way.
The fix is easy - paint the wall from corner to corner. No one will be able to tell any slight differences in the new and old paint that way.
#6
09-15-12, 12:31 PM
If it isn't BM Pearl, then it's their equivalent. I can see the lines in there too. I've had the same problem. I would go over it with an egg shell or washable flat version of the paint. If not, use the W method.
#8
09-15-12, 03:44 PM
Group Moderator
It is nearly impossible to match the finish from one batch of paint to another. If you want that wall to have the same sheen across it's whole width it needs to be painted with the same paint. If you have to switch to a different paint.
#13
09-15-12, 06:54 PM
The W method is when you paint Ws instead of straight lines. I only use it once on a textured ceiling. Otherwise I paint straight lines like you did. On the top pic that you posted, I can see lines & splotches where the paint didn't blend. I believe it's the paint, not anything that you did.
#16
09-15-12, 08:24 PM
I hear you. Now I'm just looking for solutions. I even went as far as using Goo Gone on a small part of this area because it's so small and it looks like it's working to take the shine out.
#17
09-16-12, 04:16 AM
I doubt there is anything wrong the paint other than it might not be the best base for the job.
The paint store can match a competitors color perfectly but it's not possible to perfectly match the sheen without using the same base. Eggshell isn't a color but rather a sheen definition, it's close to satin..... but since there is no industry standard when it comes to sheen, one brands satin can be shinier [or flatter] than another. This includes a matte finish - the sheen level will vary from brand to brand.
Short of using the original paint for touch up [and that's no garuntee over time] the best solution is to paint the entire wall.
The paint store can match a competitors color perfectly but it's not possible to perfectly match the sheen without using the same base. Eggshell isn't a color but rather a sheen definition, it's close to satin..... but since there is no industry standard when it comes to sheen, one brands satin can be shinier [or flatter] than another. This includes a matte finish - the sheen level will vary from brand to brand.
Short of using the original paint for touch up [and that's no garuntee over time] the best solution is to paint the entire wall.
#18
09-16-12, 05:48 AM
I guess my question is how many paint cans would I have to go through to figure out what wouldn't shine on my drywall?
Since the paint color that I have now from SW is perfect is there something I can use to simply remove the shine that is on the wall?
Since the paint color that I have now from SW is perfect is there something I can use to simply remove the shine that is on the wall?
#20
09-16-12, 05:52 AM
We are talking about a 8 ft high x 2 ft wide area of drywall versus a 1,300 sq ft Rec room. I don't really want to paint the entire basement for that reason.
#21
09-16-12, 05:55 AM
No need to reprime. I saw on TV a few days ago where Rick Dale [American Restoration] claimed that you could add baking soda to paint to get rid of the gloss. I've painted all my life and have never heard this before and don't know if it's true..... but maybe it's worth giving it a shot.
You don't need to repaint the entire basement, just the wall in question. The slight difference in sheen won't be noticeable from one wall to the next.
You don't need to repaint the entire basement, just the wall in question. The slight difference in sheen won't be noticeable from one wall to the next.
#23
09-16-12, 06:00 AM
Paint stores match the color but can only come as close as their bases let them as far as the sheen goes. Instead of trying however many paint brands to get it perfect, I'd just paint that whole wall. Once it's cut into the adjacent walls and has dried - you won't be able to tell the difference.
#26
09-16-12, 07:30 AM
The 1st paint can was what the original homeowner used to paint the drywall. Gloss level indicator says Eggshell. The second one is what I bought and it is too white when painted on the wall. As you can tell it's the same exact paint, but he must have had Menard's color match the paint.
My other problem is when I tried to make the drywall look as close as possible it didn't turn out so well....should I hire out a pro for that part?
My other problem is when I tried to make the drywall look as close as possible it didn't turn out so well....should I hire out a pro for that part?
#28
09-16-12, 04:46 PM
Menards has a piece of paneling that has the knockdown texture. But I would have to take the piece of drywall out again. Would I place the paneling over the existing piece of drywall? I believe this is what the original owner did. I will still have the problem with the lines on each side though.
#30
09-16-12, 07:57 PM
I'm not sure what you mean. How would put the paneling in ? I have to take off the existing 8 ft high x 1-1/2 ft wide piece of drywall off now to place the new piece of paneling on with new drywall or else it would stick out too much just like the 2 lines stick out now.
#32
09-17-12, 04:46 AM
The original paint was Pittsburgh Paint, it's been a lot of years since I've used any of their coatings but they do have good paint. Since the label changed, I wonder if the formula was changed any? Was the new can of paint tinted the same as the original can? Was the sheen [on the wall] the same?
I'd suggest taking the gallon of PPG paint back to the store along with a piece of your scrap painted drywall and get them to match it for you...... but I still think it would be simpler to just repaint the wall from corner to corner
I'd suggest taking the gallon of PPG paint back to the store along with a piece of your scrap painted drywall and get them to match it for you...... but I still think it would be simpler to just repaint the wall from corner to corner
#33
09-17-12, 04:53 PM
Seems as if the nature of the problem has changed. First the sheen of the new paint was different so the lines showed. Then the lines showed because the joint patching was not perfect. Paint will never hide a bad patch job.
Do what you have to do to get the patches right. Maybe sand and scrape and retape and finish a wider section and retexture. Then you will have a large enough area that you might as well paint the whole wall. If you don't like the sheen of the new paint get another can of paint in a sheen you like and paint the whole wall from angle or corner to corner or angle. A little difference of shade or sheen will not be noticeable if you paint the whole wall. The difference will be in the texture. Someone said once that "Texture is color and color is texture." This means that a difference in either will show up the other.
Do what you have to do to get the patches right. Maybe sand and scrape and retape and finish a wider section and retexture. Then you will have a large enough area that you might as well paint the whole wall. If you don't like the sheen of the new paint get another can of paint in a sheen you like and paint the whole wall from angle or corner to corner or angle. A little difference of shade or sheen will not be noticeable if you paint the whole wall. The difference will be in the texture. Someone said once that "Texture is color and color is texture." This means that a difference in either will show up the other.
#35
09-18-12, 09:28 AM
Isn't the easiest solution on the paint still to paint the whole wall. Even if the paint store gets a perfect match now which I think they can do it seems to me that in time the new paint will not match the older paint due to different amounts of wear, light exposure and oxidation on each. So putting new paint on the whole wall will give it a uniform coat that will all age the same.
But then I am only a plasterer.
But then I am only a plasterer.
#36
09-18-12, 09:32 AM
Group Moderator
I tend to touch up paint only if I still have some in the original can which painted the wall in the first place. If I have to buy new paint, I paint the whole wall.
#37
09-23-12, 09:20 AM
Got rid of the Sherwin Williams paint and I had Menards computer match my drywall. They wanted me to try flat paint before eggshell, if it doesn't look good they will just exchange it for the eggshell. So far the flat looks a bit darker.
#40
09-23-12, 03:34 PM
If the difference in color does not bother you then it is not worth the bother. If it does it is worth the try. The paint department should have some samples for you to look at to see the exact difference. Eggshell will have a little more sheen and a little more sheen MIGHT look a little lighter. I've always found Menard's to be most helpful in that department. Or you can paint the whole wall. Seems to me it would be quicker to paint the whole wall from angle or corner to corner or angle than making multiple trips to the paint store.
