wallboard question

Old 10-08-12, 02:33 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New York, United States
Posts: 360
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
wallboard question

Had to open up a section of drywall, cut out a piece and glued/tacked a new piece of studs to support a replacement piece of drywall. Since d rywall has a beveled edge on each side and the fact I need onlly a scrap to make the repair, is there any way of putting a recess on each side so it will serve the same purpose in holding the tape and compound? I suspect such an exercise has been done by master drywallers so they have this imporant recessed area to hold compound so there is a smooth and level transition.

Any suggestions will be a great help. Wallboard is 1/2 thick
Old 10-08-12, 02:52 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Drywall is beveled on 2 sides and not beveled on 2 sides. If you look at your ceiling, there are just as many beveled joints as there are flush joints yet it looks smooth. Its the technique that hides the seams.

Cut your patch square (no bevel), tape the seams and feather out progressively further from the seam. Finish with a 12" drywall trowel and sand smooth. The key will be "thin coats", don't slather it on. It will only mean more sanding in the end.

Use a setting type of drywall compound (the kind you mix yourself). Do both verticle seams and let dry, then go back after its dry and do the horizontal ones. Setting type compound is fast setting so you don't have to wait too long before you can do the next coat (regular joint compound drys by evaporation which can take overnight between coats). Repeat process until you have feathered out far enough to sand and blend the patch into the surrounding wall.
Old 10-08-12, 02:55 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,670
Received 1,812 Upvotes on 1,629 Posts
If your scrap of drywall is 1/2" thick, and the surrounding drywall is 1/2" thick... recessing the scrap will not help. The hole you cut out is not recessed on any edge, so why would your repair piece need to be? Your repair will be just like a butt joint (where two 4' non-recessed ends of drywall meet). As such, you will just need to feather it out farther with a wider knife so that it doesn't look like a bump on the wall.

Put a little joint compound in your drywall pan and thin the mud with a little water so that it's just a little runnier than normal. Apply this over the top of the joint with a 4" or 6" knife so that it's about 1/8" thick. Lay paper tape into the wet mud. Hold the tape with one hand (so that it doesn't slide) while you wipe the tape down tight to the wall with the 4" or 6" knife. You are squeezing out all the excess mud from behind the tape. Do this on all 4 sides of the repair.

Once it's dry, come back with an 8" knife and try to lay a nice thin layer of joint compound over the tape. If you put that layer on too thin you will be able to see the tape through the mud- that's too thin. Apply just enough mud (1/8" or so) so that you can't see any of the white paper.

Also try and "kill the edge" on each side of that wet mud so that you aren't leaving a big glob on each side of the 8" knife. You do this by placing the knife mostly on the wall where you have NO mud, then put pressure on the outside of the knife, while slightly lifting the inside of the knife so as to taper the edge of the mud down to nothing.

After that's dry you should be able to skim down each side of the last coat with a 10" knife, coating the inside perimeter and outside perimeter of your repair. Once that's dry, you can sand it with a pole sander. Don't sand into the tape... if you do, your first coat probably wasn't thick enough! Once you're done sanding, if there are any imperfections, you can usually fix them with a skim coat and a small 6" knife. Once that's dry, give it one last quick final sanding.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: