Can I install 1 x 6 wood planks directly over gyprock on walls and ceilings?
#1

Hello everyone. It's nice to be here. This is my first post. I reviewed different posts in the forum but didn't quite get the answer to this question. We bought an older house (67 years old) about 2 years ago and we are doing a bit of renovations. We tore down a small wall (non supporting wall) to make the living room better so the living room and little hall are now one. We did put a beam on the ceiling though to make it stronger and because both the ceilings are different. One is made of stucco and the other one painted.
We want to put 1 x 6 wood planks on the walls and ceiling if we can. On the wall, there is old drywall. Some of it appears to have several coats of paint from years past. There used to be a closet which we took down so the ceiling and wall in that area is uneven and that's why we decided to go with wood plank walls as an alternative because we didn't want to have to go through the mess of drywall, sanding and stuff. That being said,.......here is the question.
We want to install the wood planks vertically on the wall. Can I install them directly over the sheetrock (drywall). Three sides are on inside walls and a small part is on an outside wall where the front door is (in case this makes a difference). Thank you for your replies and I'd like to add that this forum is great and has all kinds of helpful hints.
Mokitag
We want to put 1 x 6 wood planks on the walls and ceiling if we can. On the wall, there is old drywall. Some of it appears to have several coats of paint from years past. There used to be a closet which we took down so the ceiling and wall in that area is uneven and that's why we decided to go with wood plank walls as an alternative because we didn't want to have to go through the mess of drywall, sanding and stuff. That being said,.......here is the question.
We want to install the wood planks vertically on the wall. Can I install them directly over the sheetrock (drywall). Three sides are on inside walls and a small part is on an outside wall where the front door is (in case this makes a difference). Thank you for your replies and I'd like to add that this forum is great and has all kinds of helpful hints.
Mokitag


#2
Welcome to the forums! If you are talking about tongue and groove planks, you can apply them directly to the ceiling without removing the sheetrock. You must ascertain where your joists are and angle nail with 2" nails directly into the joists, making sure your joints fall over a joist.
Now, as far as walls, I wouldn't. Largest reason is you will be changing the plane of the wall and all your door jambs will need to be extending. If you are planning on the walls, I would remove the sheetrock, perform any electrical modifications you need, then install perlins at the 2', 4', and 6' levels in each stud bay so you will have something to attach your vertical boards to, then apply the boards. Installing them horizontally, you won't have to install the perlins.
Now, as far as walls, I wouldn't. Largest reason is you will be changing the plane of the wall and all your door jambs will need to be extending. If you are planning on the walls, I would remove the sheetrock, perform any electrical modifications you need, then install perlins at the 2', 4', and 6' levels in each stud bay so you will have something to attach your vertical boards to, then apply the boards. Installing them horizontally, you won't have to install the perlins.
#3
Hello Chandler and thank you for your reply. There is only one outlet in the area to be covered. It's a light switch and that little wall has already been built (the structure) with the switch already in place so that it's not inward. As for the mouldings around the doors, that too is being taken care of.
The boards are 1 x 6 but not tongue and groove. Just your basic 1 x 6. These I want to put on the wall. Once I'm done that, I will deal with the ceiling and ask questions for that there but I will keep in mind what you have already mentioned regarding ceilings.
So if I don't have to worry about electricity, etc. and that it's being taken care of and doors as well, can I put the vertical boards directly over the sheetroc or do I need to put furlin or something before? Excuse the improper terminology as I'm French and I need to go to a translator sometimes to get the true meaning of words. Thank you in advance but I will seriously consider removing all the sheetrock first though.
Mokitag
The boards are 1 x 6 but not tongue and groove. Just your basic 1 x 6. These I want to put on the wall. Once I'm done that, I will deal with the ceiling and ask questions for that there but I will keep in mind what you have already mentioned regarding ceilings.
So if I don't have to worry about electricity, etc. and that it's being taken care of and doors as well, can I put the vertical boards directly over the sheetroc or do I need to put furlin or something before? Excuse the improper terminology as I'm French and I need to go to a translator sometimes to get the true meaning of words. Thank you in advance but I will seriously consider removing all the sheetrock first though.
Mokitag

#4
Welcome to the forums, again!
When you say
and
I wonder about receptacle outlets. It sounds like you might need to add some of those, and this is the time to do that.
I'm also wondering about insulation in the small part of an exterior wall, and the trim around any windows. And when you say
I just want to point out that it is standard practice to finish the ceiling first so that the material on the wall can help support the material on the ceiling. This would seem to be especially important when using a material as heavy as 1x wood.
Chandler was using "purlin" to refer to a horizontal piece of framing, installed between the vertical studs, that you will need to install in order to have something to attach your 1x6s to if you place them vertically.
In French, courtesy of Google Translate (that means I can only hope that it is intelligible!):
Bienvenue sur les forums, encore une fois!
Quand vous dites [QUOTE] Il ya une seule sortie dans la zone à couvrir. Il s'agit d'un interrupteur de lumière [/ QUOTE] et [QUOTE] Nous démoli un petit mur (non mur de soutènement) pour rendre le salon plus si le salon et la petite salle sont maintenant l'un ... Nous voulons mettre 1 x planches de bois 6 sur les murs et le plafond si nous le pouvons. [/ QUOTE] Je m'interroge sur prises de courant. Il semble que vous pourriez avoir besoin d'ajouter un peu de ceux-ci, et c'est le moment de le faire.
Je me demande aussi sur l'isolation dans la petite partie d'un mur extérieur, et la garniture autour des fenêtres. Et quand vous dites [QUOTE] Juste votre base 1 x 6. Ce que je veux mettre sur le mur. Une fois que j'ai terminé, je vais traiter avec le plafond [/ QUOTE] Je veux juste faire remarquer que c'est une pratique courante à la fin du premier plafond de telle sorte que le matériau sur la paroi peut aider à supporter le matériau du plafond. Cela semble être particulièrement important lors de l'utilisation d'un matériau plus lourd que le bois 1x.
Chandler a été l'utilisation de "panne" pour désigner une pièce horizontale de charpente, installé entre la verticale goujons, que vous aurez besoin d'installer afin d'avoir quelque chose pour attacher vos 1x6s à si vous les placez verticalement.
When you say
There is only one outlet in the area to be covered. It's a light switch
We tore down a small wall (non supporting wall) to make the living room better so the living room and little hall are now one... We want to put 1 x 6 wood planks on the walls and ceiling if we can.
I'm also wondering about insulation in the small part of an exterior wall, and the trim around any windows. And when you say
Just your basic 1 x 6. These I want to put on the wall. Once I'm done that, I will deal with the ceiling
Chandler was using "purlin" to refer to a horizontal piece of framing, installed between the vertical studs, that you will need to install in order to have something to attach your 1x6s to if you place them vertically.
In French, courtesy of Google Translate (that means I can only hope that it is intelligible!):
Bienvenue sur les forums, encore une fois!
Quand vous dites [QUOTE] Il ya une seule sortie dans la zone à couvrir. Il s'agit d'un interrupteur de lumière [/ QUOTE] et [QUOTE] Nous démoli un petit mur (non mur de soutènement) pour rendre le salon plus si le salon et la petite salle sont maintenant l'un ... Nous voulons mettre 1 x planches de bois 6 sur les murs et le plafond si nous le pouvons. [/ QUOTE] Je m'interroge sur prises de courant. Il semble que vous pourriez avoir besoin d'ajouter un peu de ceux-ci, et c'est le moment de le faire.
Je me demande aussi sur l'isolation dans la petite partie d'un mur extérieur, et la garniture autour des fenêtres. Et quand vous dites [QUOTE] Juste votre base 1 x 6. Ce que je veux mettre sur le mur. Une fois que j'ai terminé, je vais traiter avec le plafond [/ QUOTE] Je veux juste faire remarquer que c'est une pratique courante à la fin du premier plafond de telle sorte que le matériau sur la paroi peut aider à supporter le matériau du plafond. Cela semble être particulièrement important lors de l'utilisation d'un matériau plus lourd que le bois 1x.
Chandler a été l'utilisation de "panne" pour désigner une pièce horizontale de charpente, installé entre la verticale goujons, que vous aurez besoin d'installer afin d'avoir quelque chose pour attacher vos 1x6s à si vous les placez verticalement.
#5
Is that what I really said???
, Wow!! Nash is right, if you only have one receptacle presently, you should go ahead and bring it up to code and install additional ones for convenience. You will not be able to install the 1x lumber directly to the sheetrock, as there is nothing for the nails to bite into to hold the wood. In addition, you will have the crack between the boards, which can get bigger as time goes by, so you will need to paint the wall brown or tan or something that won't stand out in the cracks. You will be better off removing the wall sheetrock to install the perlins to fasten the vertical lumber to it, reducing your need to install jamb extensions on all the windows and doors as well as that receptacle.

#6
Hi Nashka. Thanks for the French translation. I was ok with the English though except for a few terms. We decided to do the boards horizontally finally as the studs are at 16 inches apart and so much easier to find. There is an exterior wall of this little area which ia bout 8 inches on one side of the door and about the same on the other side of the door. If we do the walls before the ceiling, we would have to leave a space of course for the wall boards to support the ceiling boards.
As for the light switchces and plugs, there is only one light switch and it happens to be on the wall we tore down and rebuilt using an arch so there is no sheetrock there. We already changed the switch system and the switch will be in the proper space to put the board there when we get there. As I said, this is only a very small hall space that we are opening to give the living room a bigger feeling but they are still seperate spaces because of the little rectangular arch way we did. So the only light switch we have to worry about is already on a bare wall without sheetrock so that will not be a problem. As for other outlets in the area, none are needed as there is one just turning the corner and one on the opposite end but on the living room side which is very easy to get too if a plug is needed.
I hope this answers your questions but if there is something else I need to know, I am definately open to suggestions. Is it ok if we do the walls since the 1 x 6 are already bought and ready to install? As for the ceiling boards, I would take something much lighter such as a tongue and groove which would be narrower than 1 inch for sure. I've seen some that you can buy in kits that contain 6 pieces for about $16.00 or something like that and they can be used for ceiling tiles
I'm open to suggestions however and thank you kindly for your advice
PS" I forgot to mention. The exterior of my house is made of brick but when you open the wall it seems to have a second layer of brick somehow, an air space and then a sort of black tar paper with a sort of fiber board on top. Of course I could insulate that little piece of wall but I'm not sure how to go about it so again, your suggestions would be welcome
Mokitag
As for the light switchces and plugs, there is only one light switch and it happens to be on the wall we tore down and rebuilt using an arch so there is no sheetrock there. We already changed the switch system and the switch will be in the proper space to put the board there when we get there. As I said, this is only a very small hall space that we are opening to give the living room a bigger feeling but they are still seperate spaces because of the little rectangular arch way we did. So the only light switch we have to worry about is already on a bare wall without sheetrock so that will not be a problem. As for other outlets in the area, none are needed as there is one just turning the corner and one on the opposite end but on the living room side which is very easy to get too if a plug is needed.
I hope this answers your questions but if there is something else I need to know, I am definately open to suggestions. Is it ok if we do the walls since the 1 x 6 are already bought and ready to install? As for the ceiling boards, I would take something much lighter such as a tongue and groove which would be narrower than 1 inch for sure. I've seen some that you can buy in kits that contain 6 pieces for about $16.00 or something like that and they can be used for ceiling tiles
I'm open to suggestions however and thank you kindly for your advice
PS" I forgot to mention. The exterior of my house is made of brick but when you open the wall it seems to have a second layer of brick somehow, an air space and then a sort of black tar paper with a sort of fiber board on top. Of course I could insulate that little piece of wall but I'm not sure how to go about it so again, your suggestions would be welcome

Mokitag

#7
You can do the walls first, although it is customary to install ceiling first and wall to support ceiling. If you do the walls first, you will need to trim the edges of the ceiling to make it look good. In a concurrent thread we have posted a couple of examples you can see for ideas on the beadboard and plank ceilings: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wa...e-ceiling.html
Yes, insulate all exterior walls no matter their size. Cold air will find it's way in. In an area that small you may get by with using minimally expanding foam sprayed in the cavity and in the jamb area.
Yes, insulate all exterior walls no matter their size. Cold air will find it's way in. In an area that small you may get by with using minimally expanding foam sprayed in the cavity and in the jamb area.
#8
Thank you Chandler. Your suggestions sound very wise indeed. I will review my things and install an extra plug, remove the sheetrock and start fresh.
Thank you.
Mokitag

Mokitag

#9
Moki, I don't know what your electrical code requires in terms of receptacle location. Here, the NEC requires that every section of wall that is 2' or more wide have a receptacle installed in it, and that receptacles in a room be no more than 12' apart; that is, within 6' horizontally of any load you want to plug in.
So I'm curious: How was Google's French? Did it make any sense at all?
So I'm curious: How was Google's French? Did it make any sense at all?