I had a person slip in the shower and break off the bath faucet. Fortunately, he wasn't hurt but when I went to check the damage I found that the 14 year old wall above the shower surround was swelling where it met the surround. Checked all three sides and found that each surface had some degree of water damage and also found a small bit of water damage just outside the tub at the floor (splashing???). Pulled the sheetrock out and found that the studs underneath were solid so my plan is to simply replace the damaged area. To my eye, it looked like regular sheetrock. I also didn't see any vapor barrier in place. Maybe that was OK in 1998?

My plan is to use Hardibacker to make the repairs. I've already picked up most of the materials but want to make sure that I install them correctly. First, I don't know what vapor barrier would be easiest to install. This is a rather small area. The rear wall is 58X20 1/2, the two sides are 31X20 1/2, and outside the tub I'll have two openings 16X92 going from floor to ceiling over to the first stud. I've trimmed the sheetrock along the stud and will sister a 2X4 to it to screw the new Hardibacker in place. Once the vapor barrier is installed I will use drywall shims to set the depth of the Hardibacker. Digging around on the forums it looks like I want to shim the studs so that the Hardibacker clears the insert flange and floats 1/4" above the top of the shower to provide a water contact gap. Once the bathroom is painted I'll caulk the edges.

Am I on the right track here. Doesn't look like this should be a difficult job but want to make sure my plan is sound.

Thanks,
Mike

 

You don't need hardibacker unless you plan on tiling the area. If you are simply going to finish and paint, you want moisture resistant sheet rock. Green board is common although there are several others on the market that are not green in color. Given the measurements given, you are repairing the area above the shower surround. You really don't need a vapor barrier, but if you want one, 15# felt paper or equivalent will work.

 

Regular drywall should be fine BUT it needs to primed and then top coated with a latex enamel. Enamel will repel moisture, flat latex paint can absorb moisture. I'd caulk the ceiling to the tile after the prime coat but before applying the latex enamel.

almost forgot welcome to the forums Mike!

 

Thank you both for the replies.

So, the Hardibacker is overkill for the intended repair? I think I'm still going to use it just for the moisture and mold resistance but I guess I could have saved a few bucks. Nice to know that I won't need a moisture barrier. I didn't see one when the old sheetrock came down so I guess I don't need to feel bad about not installing it. Going to take off work a few hours early and knock this out. Try to get it up and get the joints taped and mudded today, textured tomorrow, and paint in a few days.

Thanks again,
Mike

 

..... so you are using a setting compound, right? The tape coat needs to be dry before the next coat is applied or the weight of the fresh mud will pull the tape loose