Removing stone(?) from top of fireplace
#1
Removing stone(?) from top of fireplace
How difficult do you think it would be to remove this stone from the top half of our fireplace? It looks as though it's already coming off a bit on the edges, anyone have any idea how these are put on? Also, is drywall behind this?
I'm aware that I just need to rip it off in order to find out, but just wanted to see if anyone had experience with similar setups, or if you had any tips, thanks!
I'm aware that I just need to rip it off in order to find out, but just wanted to see if anyone had experience with similar setups, or if you had any tips, thanks!
#2
Group Moderator
I can almost say with certainty that you do not have drywall behind the stone. How difficult it will be to remove will depend a bit on the tools you have available. With a chisel and hammer I'd say it will be a workout and cost a smashed finger. With a rotary hammer and chisel bit it could all probably be down in an hour.
#3
Member
Probably the stone is applied over metal lath or woven wire lath and a Portland cement scratch coat. It is stuck with Portland cement mortar. There is likely drywall behind the lath and there might or might not be tar paper or building paper between the lath and drywall. The lath or woven wire will be nailed or maybe screwed to the studs or whatever structure is there. There is a good chance that you can break the bond between the scratch coat and the mortar that holds the stone or break the bond between the stone and the mortar that holds it. Then you can see how best to remove the lath and scratch coat. You will probably destroy the drywall in the process. Not to worry. That is easy to replace
Maybe the stone is adhered with mastic adhesive either to drywall or to cement backer board. If if is adhered to the drywall you will probably destroy the drywall. If it is adhered to cement backer board it will likely be unscathed.
Maybe the stone is adhered with mastic adhesive either to drywall or to cement backer board. If if is adhered to the drywall you will probably destroy the drywall. If it is adhered to cement backer board it will likely be unscathed.
#4
In any event, prepare both your mantel, the hearth and surrounding flooring for impact of large pieces of stone/mortar. I would surround myself with 2" XPS foam on all horizontal surfaces to take the impact. You may be controlling one piece of loosened stone while another, larger piece decides to give way. Not pretty.
Also prepare for destruction of all the wall behind the stone, regardless of what it is. It is all repairable. What do you have plans for this wall? You haven't installed your hardwoods yet, have you
Also prepare for destruction of all the wall behind the stone, regardless of what it is. It is all repairable. What do you have plans for this wall? You haven't installed your hardwoods yet, have you

#7
Thanks for all the advice, I still haven't decided on whether to demo or not, thinking it may be too much trouble. Another option is to just paint it white, if I decide to go this option, what do you all recommend using?
Chandler, I know, haha, I'm just looking ahead, this is on the first floor, once I've finished the 2nd floor, I'll get started on this project (before putting in the hardwood, of course!)
Chandler, I know, haha, I'm just looking ahead, this is on the first floor, once I've finished the 2nd floor, I'll get started on this project (before putting in the hardwood, of course!)
#9
Forum Topic Moderator
I'm not sure how well it would look but the stone can be painted. It would probably take 3 coats. You could either use most any latex primer or thin the finish paint about 10% with water and use it as a primer. Then 2 coats of your choice of latex for the top coat.
You'll likely be stuck with a brush to apply the paint. Spraying is an option but it involves a lot of cover up as overspray can travel a long way [including adjoining rms] and 1 or 2 coats would need to be back brushed in order to work the paint into all the crevices to give you full coverage.
You'll likely be stuck with a brush to apply the paint. Spraying is an option but it involves a lot of cover up as overspray can travel a long way [including adjoining rms] and 1 or 2 coats would need to be back brushed in order to work the paint into all the crevices to give you full coverage.
#11
Why anyone would paint perfectly good-looking stone work (having a few normal shrinkage cracks or installation imperfections) will always be a mystery to me. Trust me--doing so will not improve the value of your property, but rather just the opposite. And paint will not hide cracks, either, so they'll still be there, but just more visible.
Why not just tuck-point the mortar imperfections and cracks with a matching mortar? Easily done in half a day. You could hire it out if you don't want the challenge of making things look pretty.
Why not just tuck-point the mortar imperfections and cracks with a matching mortar? Easily done in half a day. You could hire it out if you don't want the challenge of making things look pretty.