Problem: Exterior Door/Casing to Interior Wall?

Faced with a situation not sure how to resolve and thought I would check to see if any member's have suggestions before I make it any worse? .

Hopefully able to make sense from the pic's where the exterior door casing is recessed approx approx. 5/8" X 2 1/2" from the interior wall. The door/casing is flush with the studs and recessed by 5/8" drywall. Also, I used paper/metal edging on the outside edges of the drywall.

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In the pic's below I cut trim pieces to fill the gap along the top and sides; thereby, the door/casing is going to be recessed the depth of the drywall, it is what it is?

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If using the trim filler is about the best option then it's a matter of what to used to blend, or fill the gap between the trim pieces (wood) and drywall; as well as, the gap between the filler piece and door casing (wood). Unless member(s) have another suggestions I thought I would use a vinyl putting/paste then sand, prime and paint. Suggestions appreciated; please keep abusing comments to a minimum? Thank you dave

 

You need to install a jamb extension from the edge of the door frame to a plane equal to the flat of the sheetrock, then fill in the area behind the jamb extension with sheetrock to bring everything flat. Then install your door trim.

 

It's not a good idea to use spackling or joint compound to fill the gaps and holes - sooner or later it may crack and/or fall out

The gaps between 2 pieces of wood should be caulked with a siliconized acrylic latex caulk [it's paintable] the nail holes should be filled with painter's putty.

 

If this is a new door...it should have been set flush with the interior...and the extension added to the outside. As done, the door will never be able to open more than about 90 degrees...probably less.

 

Gunguy: plumbed the door to the studs rather than to the interior wall and now faced with trying to 'fix it' It's an old cabin built in the late 50's; although old enough to be the original owner, I am not; rather, a novice 'do it myselfer' and it has definately been a slow learning experience; newspaper for insulation, can lids to plug holes, insulators used for interior wiring, nother square or plumb, 1 interior wall did not even have studs, to name a few, wish I can say I now know better but at my age probly forget by tomorrow. As for the hidge side of the door, don't intend using filler since there's little, if any, gap between the hinge and drywall and the door opens all the way.

Marksr: thanks for the input on type of sealer!

Chandler: if understand correctly, rather than using a trim piece to fill the 2 1/2" gap (edge of the existing jamb/casing to the sheet rock the length of the door) I need to extend the existing casing which is approx. 3/4" and extend it out approx. 5/8", which would put it flush to the interior wall, and then cut a piece of drywall to fill the gap. Again, if understand correctly this would consist of a piece roughly 3/4" X 5/8"X 72" and assume screw or nail directly into the existing casing along the top and door jamb side and roughly 1 7/8" drywall to fill the gap?

Really appreciate the input!!

 

You got it my friend. Finish nails on the jamb extension to keep it from splitting.

 

Online shopping and noticed home improvement supply stores have what is described as 'door jamp extension' kits, not sure if talking about the same type of application but might as well take a look see. While at it see if they offer a wider/longer stricking plate? Again thank you for the information!

 

Thought I would take the opportunity to thank 'U' all for the help. Now just a matter of putting the final finish to the area. Having to go back and redo is not making the dim light at the end of the tunnel any brighter. As soon as I can recall why I did not take the drywall to the edge of the door casing I will post the info; unless, it's too embarassing?

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Again thank to all f0r input, it was very helpful!!

 

We've all been there although there might be times we won't admit it