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Help! I screwed up removing a bathroom tile and I don't know where to turn!

Help! I screwed up removing a bathroom tile and I don't know where to turn!

Old 02-17-13, 05:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Help! I screwed up removing a bathroom tile and I don't know where to turn!

I had the stupid idea to try to replace my 2 broken bathroom tiles by myself. I broke up the offending tile with a hammer (which is what someone told me to do) but now the wall is broken too!

What should I do? I don't really want my husband to find out what I did if I can help it. I'm attaching a picture below.

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Old 02-17-13, 05:29 PM
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Hi Willow.. -Welcome to the forums...
You got yourself in a pickle....- It's going to be a little tough to get that repaired in such little time...depending on whe your husband is getting home...!! I would try to 1st repair the damaged drywall (obviously) - I would use a piece of flat wood, like a paint stir stick.. about 6"long. Put a screw into it..about mid-way along the 6".. get some construction adhesive/wood glue even, and put the glue on the stick, same side as the screw..and slip in in, behind the broken drywalll and pull the drywall out, towards you..to try a level it off in the back..and bring the front pieces together.. Let that adhesive dry complete.. Hold it for a while..maybe tape around and across the screw.. to hold it in place till the glue dries.. Once its dry...leave the screw (in the stick) there...while you work on the damaged drywall.. Its probably too big a got to just mud it up..so use some fibre/mesh tape to cover the area..then apply some mud (plaster/fill) around the area...wroking it slightly into the mesh tap..and build up the area a layer/bit at a time..so each (thin ) layer will dry ....trying to keep the outside smooth.. Once you've gotten a good part of the area patched.. you might be able to install your new tile over the area....Keeping in mind that the patched area should be smooth and flat, in relation to how the tile will sit in the patched area....
That's how I think I would try it.. - before going to extremes...!!
Good Luck...
Old 02-26-13, 03:17 PM
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I know it has been a week but..

Since you should need more than one day to fix this hole I believe I would go a bit farther along the lines indicated by jatco. The picture looks like a standard ceramic tile, 4 inch by 4 inch, at the edge of the fiberglass tub/shower wall. It was applied to the regular ½ inch thick drywall since it is outside of the wet area of the tub.
To make a permanent repair you will need: a replacement tile; a hacksaw blade to cut out the old drywall; 4 strips of wood approximately 8 inches long by 1 ½ inches wide and ¾ inches thick(this is a 1” x 2” x 36” board cut into 4 pieces 8 inches long) ; either a just under 4 inch by 4 inch piece of ½ inch thick drywall or plywood to fill in the hole; construction adhesive to stick two of the wood strips to the backside of the hole and the hole filler and replacement tile to the repair; 4 screws 2 ½ long to apply pressure and secure the boards in place until the construction adhesive dries; string to tie to one of each of the screws used to hold the boards while placing them; tape to secure the end of your string safety lines; a drill with bits and a screw driver.
Remove the broken drywall completely. Use a hacksaw blade and cut on the back stroke with the teeth facing you and remove all the way to the undamaged tiles surrounding the hole. Put tape on the blade or use a thick glove to protect your hand from the teeth. Take care and reach in with your finger to support the drywall as you cut to prevent breaking out more drywall from behind the remaining tiles. Remove any loose backing paper from the hole and behind the remaining tiles. On all four of the 8 inch wood strips measure up from one end 2 inches and pre-drill a screw hole in the center of the strip all the way through the strip. Measure from the other ends 2 ¼ inches and pre-drill in the center of the strip for the second screw hole all the way through the strip. Install a screw in only two of the strips in the 2 inch end. You only need to drive the screw to the other edge of the board because you will be removing it later. Tie at least a 2 foot length of string to each these screws as a “safety line” to keep from losing the board inside of the wall cavity. In the remaining 2 strips install a screw in the 2 ¼ inch end. Drive these screws through the boards and an additional ¼ inch.
Now we will apply the wood strips so you will either need a helper or need to place within reach the wood strips, construction adhesive, tape and screw driver.
Use several pieces of tape and tape the “safety string” of one of the boards below the hole. On the screw side of the board apply construction adhesive to both ends of the board up to the screw hole and the screw and also along the left face to the center line of the board. (The left face is when the 2 1/4" end is to the top) Holding the screw with your left hand, insert the strip into the hole, the long end first, until you can put the end you are holding into the hole. Move the board to the left side of the hole and put the screw into the lower left corner. Put your right fingers into the hole behind the board to line up the top screw hole with the left edge of the hole. Take one of the boards that has the screw in the 2 ¼ inch end and line up the screw with the screw hole. Use the right hand thumb to hold this board in place and drive the screw into the board that is behind the wall. When it is close to being snug, remove the bottom screw, line up the holes in the two boards and screw the two boards together. Now screw the two boards tight. To put the second board in place repeat the above steps and switch the hands. If there is not enough room to have part of the board behind the right side of the hole, move it to the right as far as possible and only apply construction adhesive to the ends up to the screw hole and the screw. Allow the adhesive to dry overnight.
Remove the screws. Make sure the stack up of the hole filler (drywall or plywood) and the tile will end up flush with the surrounding tiles. Apply adhesive to the exposed backer boards and install the piece of drywall or plywood. Apply adhesive to the replacement tile and install. Apply tape across the tile to hold it in place until the adhesive dries, which will take at least 24 hours. After removing the tape you can apply caulking or grout to the edges of the replacement tile.

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