"Blind" attachment of drywall to wood studs
#1
03-29-13, 02:33 PM
"Blind" attachment of drywall to wood studs
How would you attach 4' x 8' x 5/8" gypsum board to 2x4 wood studs with no room for a hammer, screw driver, or nail gun?
For floating wall in basement that at one point has only a 6" horizontal clearance between a wide box duct on the furnace (floor to ceiling) and the studs. I can nail/screw drywall to remaining studs.
1.) Drywall clips? If so, what ones and how?
2.) Adhesive (Liquid Nails) on the suds I cannot get to? If so, how do I put pressure on the sheet rock to firmly adhere it?
3.) other
Spans 3 studs. i.e. 32" and only at one end (not the middle.) I can use screws on the rest of the 8' sheet. Very cramped space, but seems safer to have sheet rock on this side. Maybe even required by Code not to have exposed wood studs here.
For floating wall in basement that at one point has only a 6" horizontal clearance between a wide box duct on the furnace (floor to ceiling) and the studs. I can nail/screw drywall to remaining studs.
1.) Drywall clips? If so, what ones and how?
2.) Adhesive (Liquid Nails) on the suds I cannot get to? If so, how do I put pressure on the sheet rock to firmly adhere it?
3.) other
Spans 3 studs. i.e. 32" and only at one end (not the middle.) I can use screws on the rest of the 8' sheet. Very cramped space, but seems safer to have sheet rock on this side. Maybe even required by Code not to have exposed wood studs here.
#2
03-30-13, 05:09 AM
Welcome to the forums!
I'm not sure I understand what/how you need to install drywall on. If the wall goes to a tight point it would it might be better to frame up a short wall to eliminate the need to go into the tight area. If you can't get in there to hang the drywall it sounds like it would also be a bear to finish and paint it too.
Pics might help clarify things - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
I'm not sure I understand what/how you need to install drywall on. If the wall goes to a tight point it would it might be better to frame up a short wall to eliminate the need to go into the tight area. If you can't get in there to hang the drywall it sounds like it would also be a bear to finish and paint it too.
Pics might help clarify things - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#4
03-30-13, 08:31 AM
Photo of condition
Thanks. Unfortunately a wedge would damage the duct. Sorry . . . I made a misstatement: the space (gap) is actually 4 inches.
Adhesive seems to be the solution. Perhaps with a 2x wedge that spans the space and held in place by temp nail/screw at either end.
Adhesive seems to be the solution. Perhaps with a 2x wedge that spans the space and held in place by temp nail/screw at either end.
#6
03-30-13, 09:14 AM
Member
#7
03-30-13, 10:22 AM
I don't think there would be room enough for an angle drill AND the screw .... but I'd never turn down an opportunity/excuse to buy a new tool 
I agree with toolman - fasten one sheet on both ends with adhesive in the middle.
I agree with toolman - fasten one sheet on both ends with adhesive in the middle.
#9
03-30-13, 12:51 PM
Furring out (actually constructing more wall) would require around water heater too and not planning on that much wall construction. Although, an alternative! Thanks.
