wall/ceiling joint drywall repairs
#1
05-17-13, 09:28 PM
wall/ceiling joint drywall repairs
So, I am somewhat new to home ownership. My wife and I just bought our first house which was built in 2006. It had some drywall issues we did not notice initially which will need repair. Aside from three popped drywall screws in one spot, the downstairs is in good shape. The upstairs, however, is a different matter. Every bedroom has, to some extent, seam issues where the wall meets the ceiling. In a few places, the joint tape is pulled away from seam between the wall and ceiling about 1/4”-1/2”. In other places, there are a couple of screws popped, which have separated the joint tape around it from the wall for about an inch in each direction near the wall ceiling joint. There is also one seam about 2’ long in the bathroom that is separated from the ceiling by about 1/4” and is just an open crack. I guess I have a couple questions.
1. Is there any underlying structural issue I should be worried about other than some settling of the home or initially a crappy drywall job?
2. How do I go about fixing these? I have done a few small drywall patches but have never done seam taping or other major repairs. I have seen how corners are done during installation and it doesn’t look extremely complicated. I can’t find anything on repairs for corners though. The fact that the whole area is already textured and painted leaves me with questions on how I should go about preparing the area to redo the joints and how to redo them and make them match the surrounding texturing which is all spray on texturing that has been flattened. Will there be adherence issues with either the texturing or drywall compound? Just want to get some feedback from professionals and other DIY folks with more experience. Also, maybe there are other “how to” resources I haven’t found that relate to this. Thanks in advance for any info.
3. If I were to have a professional come in and repair these, how much could I expect to pay? This is obviously going to be a range and is probably difficult to answer, but any input on how much charges for labor (hourly rates to expect?) are regarding something like this would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any info.
1. Is there any underlying structural issue I should be worried about other than some settling of the home or initially a crappy drywall job?
2. How do I go about fixing these? I have done a few small drywall patches but have never done seam taping or other major repairs. I have seen how corners are done during installation and it doesn’t look extremely complicated. I can’t find anything on repairs for corners though. The fact that the whole area is already textured and painted leaves me with questions on how I should go about preparing the area to redo the joints and how to redo them and make them match the surrounding texturing which is all spray on texturing that has been flattened. Will there be adherence issues with either the texturing or drywall compound? Just want to get some feedback from professionals and other DIY folks with more experience. Also, maybe there are other “how to” resources I haven’t found that relate to this. Thanks in advance for any info.
3. If I were to have a professional come in and repair these, how much could I expect to pay? This is obviously going to be a range and is probably difficult to answer, but any input on how much charges for labor (hourly rates to expect?) are regarding something like this would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any info.
#2
05-18-13, 04:12 AM
Welcome to the forums Josh!
#1 - really hard to say especially since we aren't there to inspect it
#2 - basically you cut out what is loose and retape. Paper tape has a crease down the middle where you fold it to make the angle. The tape is pressed into [and smoothed out] a thin bed of wet joint compound. Apply another coat when dry, repeat, sand and add mud if/where needed. There are various types of texture, some easier than others to duplicate. If you can tell us what type of texture we can help you match it. Pics might help - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#3 - prices can vary widely especially from one locale to another. It's best to get multiple quotes and check references. Expect to get charged extra for each time he has to come out. Taping and texture normally means 4 trips but using hot mud [fast drying] can cut that down to 1 or 2. A lot depends on what has to been done and how long it will take.
#1 - really hard to say especially since we aren't there to inspect it
#2 - basically you cut out what is loose and retape. Paper tape has a crease down the middle where you fold it to make the angle. The tape is pressed into [and smoothed out] a thin bed of wet joint compound. Apply another coat when dry, repeat, sand and add mud if/where needed. There are various types of texture, some easier than others to duplicate. If you can tell us what type of texture we can help you match it. Pics might help - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#3 - prices can vary widely especially from one locale to another. It's best to get multiple quotes and check references. Expect to get charged extra for each time he has to come out. Taping and texture normally means 4 trips but using hot mud [fast drying] can cut that down to 1 or 2. A lot depends on what has to been done and how long it will take.
#3
05-18-13, 06:18 AM
Thanks for the info. Pictures will have to wait, I had to leave for a family emergency and won't be back for a while. I will post pictures when I get back though. Is it better to just redo the entire seam rather than the area that has pulled away? Also, the texturing is just the spray on spattering that is then flattened with a compound knife. Is there more info you need on the texturing? I have seen the aerosol cans you can use to spray on texturing and then wait a bit and flatten. Is that sufficient for small jobs? Thanks again.
#4
05-18-13, 06:38 AM
Member
Crown molding hides a world of sins that may be present from taping issues. 
The challenge with texturing is matching what some contractor did 7 years ago. He probably had a large hopper machine. The consistency of the joint compound he sprayed dictated the size of the splatter on the wall and how it would "lay down" when a paddle was pulled across it. Wouldn't hurt to buy a can and practice on some scrap drywall before you commit to the wall repairs. Some people have a gift for these things, some are fast learners, and others have no business being around a can of texture (if you follow).
The challenge with texturing is matching what some contractor did 7 years ago. He probably had a large hopper machine. The consistency of the joint compound he sprayed dictated the size of the splatter on the wall and how it would "lay down" when a paddle was pulled across it. Wouldn't hurt to buy a can and practice on some scrap drywall before you commit to the wall repairs. Some people have a gift for these things, some are fast learners, and others have no business being around a can of texture (if you follow).
#5
05-18-13, 11:50 AM
I like the crown molding idea 
While I've done well with matching/blending textures using a hopper, I've never had much luck with the rattle cans of texture but as noted - it works for some. Sometimes on small repairs a brush or sponge does a decent job of applying the texture.
It is hard to say if it's better to 'patch' the tape or completely replace. If the rest of the tape is good, patching is fine but sometimes it's easier to remove and start over.
While I've done well with matching/blending textures using a hopper, I've never had much luck with the rattle cans of texture but as noted - it works for some. Sometimes on small repairs a brush or sponge does a decent job of applying the texture.
It is hard to say if it's better to 'patch' the tape or completely replace. If the rest of the tape is good, patching is fine but sometimes it's easier to remove and start over.
