Minimizing wall damage when tearing out lathe and plaster ceiling
#1
07-15-13, 10:18 AM
Minimizing wall damage when tearing out lathe and plaster ceiling
We are about to embark on the project to tear out the lathe and plaster ceilings on the 1st and 2nd floors of our 1895 Victorian. We've already done this in the basement, which was a major hassle due to all the plumbing, conduit and other obstacles. The living areas should be much more straight forward once we get all the furniture and things out of the way. This project is a precursor to installing a new under-floor hydronic heating system.
The reason for my post is to ask if anyone has a good idea on how to minimize wall damage when removing the ceiling. In the basement I tried to use an angle grinder to cut through the lathe along each wall but this wasn't very successful. All the walls are lathe and plaster as well and we would like to keep this intact as much as possible.
Thanks,
Joe
The reason for my post is to ask if anyone has a good idea on how to minimize wall damage when removing the ceiling. In the basement I tried to use an angle grinder to cut through the lathe along each wall but this wasn't very successful. All the walls are lathe and plaster as well and we would like to keep this intact as much as possible.
Thanks,
Joe
#2
07-15-13, 11:28 AM
Group Moderator
I have used a shingle removal tool same as this one with very good success: 48" D Handle All Steel Shingle Flooring Carpet Remover | eBay
Once you get a hole in the lath and plaster, find a framing member and use that to pry the lath and plaster off in one motion. I'm sure other shingle removers would work, but this is the one I have used.
To limit the damage to the ceiling you need to cut the plaster at each corner. Use a diamond blade in your grinder. This will not cut through the wood though.
Once you get a hole in the lath and plaster, find a framing member and use that to pry the lath and plaster off in one motion. I'm sure other shingle removers would work, but this is the one I have used.
To limit the damage to the ceiling you need to cut the plaster at each corner. Use a diamond blade in your grinder. This will not cut through the wood though.
#3
07-16-13, 07:30 PM
In a house that old there might not be expanded metal cornerrite in the angles. If there is not then almost anything should work to cut the angle. If you mess up the plaster on the sides it is easily fixed. I like a hatchet or I have a little air chisel that works pretty well. You can sharpen it from time to time if you want a cleaner cut.
#4
07-17-13, 04:33 AM
Thanks for the replies. I guess I should clarify the issue a bit more. The whole house is 100 year old lathe and plaster so there is certainly no metal tape joints. And getting the tear out started is the easy part. The issue I'm trying to avoid is when the ceiling lathe extends past an interior wall. When I try to pull down and remove the lathe, it exerts pressure on the wall causing the wall plaster to crack and crumble. I have a Diablo blade for my angle grinder I was planning to try but thought I would check to see if anyone had a better idea.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
#5
07-17-13, 11:04 AM
By whatever means you use, make the cut in the angle before you start pulling the ceiling down. I suppose when you take off a 100 year old ceiling that the additional dust liberated by sawing or grinding the angle is a small matter. I like to cut by hand. It is slower but cleaner.
WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR. CLOSE OFF AS MUCH OF THE HOUSE AS YOU CAN.
WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR. CLOSE OFF AS MUCH OF THE HOUSE AS YOU CAN.
#6
07-17-13, 01:12 PM
Thanks for the input. Since we're doing the entire ceilings on the 1st and 2nd floor, 'closing off the house' isn't really an option. But we do have good respirators.
Joe
Joe
#7
07-17-13, 01:51 PM
Member
A chipper hammer with a flat tile blade will snap the wire lathe and not damage to walls. I have cut through more than my share of lathe demo'ing bathrooms with tile walls.
The plaster is pretty thick and will leave you a rather ugly mess to deal with in the corner of the ceiling. Drywall will not cover the entire hole left from the ceiling demo. Short of furring out the ceiling prior to hanging drywall, you could always install crown molding to cover the joint.
The plaster is pretty thick and will leave you a rather ugly mess to deal with in the corner of the ceiling. Drywall will not cover the entire hole left from the ceiling demo. Short of furring out the ceiling prior to hanging drywall, you could always install crown molding to cover the joint.
#8
07-17-13, 04:43 PM
Plaster is applied over LATH. It might be wood lath, or metal lath of a couple different types or over gypsum lath with or without holes in it but it is all lath. Plaster might also be applied over surfaces that are not lath like brick or CMU.
A lathe is a machine used to turn mostly wood or metal to make pretty or useful round things
A lathe is a machine used to turn mostly wood or metal to make pretty or useful round things
#9
07-28-13, 06:20 PM
I recently ripped the plaster and lath off 4 walls and ceiling in my kitchen and ran into the same problem...pieces of lath extending past the wall I was demoing into other rooms. I used a dremel with a good cutting blade to cut the lath behind where the new wall would go. It was a little tedious but I avoided cracking any of the plaster on other walls. In the corners where the dremel couldn't reach as well i just scored it really good and I was able to snap it off. Tarp off any doorways you can, the dust is 10x as bad as you think it might be...good luck!
#10
07-28-13, 07:04 PM
I assume you are talking about wood lath since this is an 1895 house. I would consider using a handsaw, not electric, just a plain old fashioned handsaw. It will cut wood lath with very little effort is it is sharp. Cut on the upstroke only, cutting downstroke will grab the lath and damage the wall plaster. If you have a keyhole saw, it will fit in between the slats. You might want to save all the lath and use it to fur out the joists to bring your sheetrock down to cover the crack. If you are talking about wire lath, then I just wasted a lot of keystrokes.
