Converting Garage to Bedroom - Need help framing ceiling
#1
07-25-13, 04:38 PM
Converting Garage to Bedroom - Need help framing ceiling
I am converting my garage to a bedroom (it will mostly be used as a playroom) and I have some question in trying to frame the ceiling out so I can put in recessed lighting and drywall on the ceiling. I have gotten a permit for the work so it will all be inspected and checked out, I just want to try and avoid making as many mistakes as possible.
So I went ahead and secured 2x8 ledgers all around the room (room is 20' x 10') and used 4" ledger locks every 12" to secure them to the top sill and studs of the existing walls. My question comes in what is the best and correct way to attach the ceiling joist. My plan is to use 2x8 every 16" oc that span the 10' length. What I am not sure is if I should use metal joist hangers to attach them directly to the ledgers or if I should just nail them directly into the ledgers.
Looking through the code it sound like the ideal situation is for the joist to sit on top of the sill or ledger, but A) I don't have enough room above my ledger for it to sit on top and B) I am not sure how to do that and get a flat wall and ceiling.
Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
So I went ahead and secured 2x8 ledgers all around the room (room is 20' x 10') and used 4" ledger locks every 12" to secure them to the top sill and studs of the existing walls. My question comes in what is the best and correct way to attach the ceiling joist. My plan is to use 2x8 every 16" oc that span the 10' length. What I am not sure is if I should use metal joist hangers to attach them directly to the ledgers or if I should just nail them directly into the ledgers.
Looking through the code it sound like the ideal situation is for the joist to sit on top of the sill or ledger, but A) I don't have enough room above my ledger for it to sit on top and B) I am not sure how to do that and get a flat wall and ceiling.
Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
#2
07-25-13, 04:51 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Need to post a picture or two.
The rafters should have been sitting on top of the top plates. Just have to cut the tops at an angle so they fit.
Where the old overhead door was there needs to be a row of block laid for the new wall to sit on or your going to have water coming in under the wall and the sidings going to be to close to the grade.
It's best to also get rid of the old apron.
The rafters should have been sitting on top of the top plates. Just have to cut the tops at an angle so they fit.
Where the old overhead door was there needs to be a row of block laid for the new wall to sit on or your going to have water coming in under the wall and the sidings going to be to close to the grade.
It's best to also get rid of the old apron.
#3
07-26-13, 12:43 AM
Member
Not sure what the previous poster is talking about, but here's my take on your garage conversion:
Do not try to toe-nail ceiling joists to the ledgers. Doing so is (usually) not code-compliant, and is prone to fail by splitting the wood at the ends of the joists. Under normal ceiling drywall loading, usually not a problem, but for the occasional localized overload, the joist connection(s) will fail. Galvanized steel joist hangers, properly sized, are the best way to go.
Have you already "flattened" the garage floor, to get rid of the slope that will make your furniture want to slide downhill, and could make walking difficult for someone accustomed to flat, level floors?
Do not try to toe-nail ceiling joists to the ledgers. Doing so is (usually) not code-compliant, and is prone to fail by splitting the wood at the ends of the joists. Under normal ceiling drywall loading, usually not a problem, but for the occasional localized overload, the joist connection(s) will fail. Galvanized steel joist hangers, properly sized, are the best way to go.
Have you already "flattened" the garage floor, to get rid of the slope that will make your furniture want to slide downhill, and could make walking difficult for someone accustomed to flat, level floors?
#4
07-28-13, 08:45 AM
Thanks Bridgeman45, that is what I was thinking, I am glad to have someone confirm it.
My next step is leveling out the floor, there is about a 3" drop from end to end. I was going to give self leveling cement a shot to fix that.
Joecaption1 I did put in a concrete footer where the door was to help with water and to have a continuous look along the front of the house.
I really appreciate the responses.
My next step is leveling out the floor, there is about a 3" drop from end to end. I was going to give self leveling cement a shot to fix that.
Joecaption1 I did put in a concrete footer where the door was to help with water and to have a continuous look along the front of the house.
I really appreciate the responses.
