Cracked drywall celing
#1
08-22-13, 01:12 PM
Cracked drywall celing
We recently renovated our kitchen this involved a new drywall ceiling to be installed. Our contractor installed 1/2" drywall over 24" rafters. I have since learned that 5/8" drywall would have been a better choice.
We have cracking at the seams. His suggestion for fixing this is supporting the drywall in the attic with braces.
"the trusses are 24. Inches apart and need to be braced. What I plan on doing is reinforcing them by adding support in between so that there is no shifting. And also have solid wood on the seams so I can screw the drywall tightened there is vapor barrier, and a lot of insulation"
What do you think of this solution.
We have cracking at the seams. His suggestion for fixing this is supporting the drywall in the attic with braces.
"the trusses are 24. Inches apart and need to be braced. What I plan on doing is reinforcing them by adding support in between so that there is no shifting. And also have solid wood on the seams so I can screw the drywall tightened there is vapor barrier, and a lot of insulation"
What do you think of this solution.
#2
08-22-13, 02:52 PM
Group Moderator
I don't like the solution, 5/8" is indicated with 24" OC structure.
Have you paid the contractor in full yet?
Have you paid the contractor in full yet?
#4
08-22-13, 03:37 PM
Group Moderator
I agree with mitch. 5/8" drywall. The trusses do not "need to be braced". This is probably not the fault of the construction... it's more than likely the fault of the contractor. Anyone worth their salt knows to use 5/8" on ceilings. The weight of the insulation will cause future problems otherwise.
If the ceilings cracked quickly, its probably also a crummy job of taping, with fiberglass tape that was not set in a setting compound. If it's cracking at the wall-ceiling joint, (this usually happens in the winter) it is because the drywall on the ceiling (when the ceiling joists are the bottom chord of a roof truss) should not be attached within 12" of the perimeter of the ceiling... it should be left to float.
If the ceilings cracked quickly, its probably also a crummy job of taping, with fiberglass tape that was not set in a setting compound. If it's cracking at the wall-ceiling joint, (this usually happens in the winter) it is because the drywall on the ceiling (when the ceiling joists are the bottom chord of a roof truss) should not be attached within 12" of the perimeter of the ceiling... it should be left to float.
#5
08-22-13, 04:27 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
I think trusses do not need to be braced.
I think the "contractor" is a hack. That's a building 101 mistake.
To do it right it all needs to come down. There's 0 reason you have to do it, it's his mistake.
I think the "contractor" is a hack. That's a building 101 mistake.
To do it right it all needs to come down. There's 0 reason you have to do it, it's his mistake.
#6
08-23-13, 08:34 AM
Thanks for all your replies.
The kitchen is finished so replacing the ceiling involves removing the upper cabinets and risking damage to hardwood floors.
I am not sure if the contractor is just looking for a way to avoid displacing us from the home. But I only want to do this once.
The kitchen is finished so replacing the ceiling involves removing the upper cabinets and risking damage to hardwood floors.
I am not sure if the contractor is just looking for a way to avoid displacing us from the home. But I only want to do this once.
