Behind my Drywall
#1
09-03-13, 04:25 PM
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Behind my Drywall
I have a leaking outside faucet. After troubleshooting and replacing the internal parts of the faucet, I determined the leak is in the wall. I created a large hole in the drywall to view behind and found yes another wall. I assume this is backer board (see picture). Do I dare start cutting into this backer board to troubleshoot the leaking issue? whew! Is it difficult to repair the backer board? I have to assume the issue is behind the backer board, because this is what membrane that would keep the water from reaching the drywall. Correct? Any posts are helpful.
#2
09-03-13, 04:32 PM
Group Moderator
Looks like a 2nd layer of drywall. That's sometimes done in a furnace or mechanical room because of fire codes, or sometimes on ceiling for sound- especially in multi-family units. Just be cautious when cutting in the event there is any wiring in the wall behind.
#3
09-03-13, 04:33 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
The area in red looks like double sheet rock. If you faucet is behind it..... cut it out.
You should try to cut the sheetrock on the center of the beam so that you can refasten the pieces after the repair. There should be insulation behind that second layer of sheetrock.
Is that a wall beam I circled in blue ? Shouldn't be spliced like that. Possibly it's extra wood added on to an exisitng beam to pack out the corner for sheetrock attaching.
The area in red looks like double sheet rock. If you faucet is behind it..... cut it out.
You should try to cut the sheetrock on the center of the beam so that you can refasten the pieces after the repair. There should be insulation behind that second layer of sheetrock.
Is that a wall beam I circled in blue ? Shouldn't be spliced like that. Possibly it's extra wood added on to an exisitng beam to pack out the corner for sheetrock attaching.
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09-03-13, 04:58 PM
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#6
09-04-13, 12:51 PM
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Drywall Question
This forum has been a lifesaver! Now...all I have left to do is patch up my drywall. Having never taken on this task, I have included a few pictures of my project-to-be. Based on the pictures, can anyone point me in the right direction for a resource or have any tips given my situation? I have three holes I am dealing with.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#7
09-04-13, 01:54 PM
I merged your threads so they wouldn't become dangling participles.....I had a teacher once that hated that 
Glad you got it fixed. I would cut some 1x4's slightly shorter than the vertical parts of your repairs, insert them and screw them behind the sheetrock allowing half of it so show past in the opening. then you can cut your sheetrock to fit and screw it to the boards, and apply your tape and mud.
Glad you got it fixed. I would cut some 1x4's slightly shorter than the vertical parts of your repairs, insert them and screw them behind the sheetrock allowing half of it so show past in the opening. then you can cut your sheetrock to fit and screw it to the boards, and apply your tape and mud.
#9
09-05-13, 11:42 AM
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Thank you for your quick reply. I do have a couple follow-up questions:
1) Do I need to find/remove any existing drywall tape around my openings or just tape over the existing tape?
2) The wall finish is orange peel. Do I need to sand down the finish to the drywall before applying the tape or simply tape over the fishing. My walls are painted with a satin finish.
Thank you, again!
1) Do I need to find/remove any existing drywall tape around my openings or just tape over the existing tape?
2) The wall finish is orange peel. Do I need to sand down the finish to the drywall before applying the tape or simply tape over the fishing. My walls are painted with a satin finish.
Thank you, again!
#10
09-06-13, 03:38 AM
While it's ok to tape over well adhered tape, generally it's best to cut and remove the tape @ the repair area.
I'd rough sand the texture/paint with 80-100 grit - mainly to promote good adhesion. You can replicate the orange peel with thinned down joint compound or buy texture in an aerosol can.
I'd rough sand the texture/paint with 80-100 grit - mainly to promote good adhesion. You can replicate the orange peel with thinned down joint compound or buy texture in an aerosol can.
