Blueboard Ceiling (320sf) with SHEETROCK Joint Compound used over taped joints.
#1
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Blueboard Ceiling (320sf) with SHEETROCK Joint Compound used over taped joints.
What exists now: USG Blueboard installed, taped at joints, joints and screw heads covered with USG Sheetrock Joint Compound. Person who did this work bailed on the job and is no longer in the picture.
New guy says the Blueboard and Sheetrock Joint Compound (SJC) are a mis-match. Blueboard made for plaster finish and if plaster applied now SJC will loose its bond because of the moisture content of the plaster. Only way to proceed is to sand off ALL the SJC, re-apply drywall compound at joints and screw holes and then plaster. I called USG and they confirmed... do not plaster over Blueboard/SJC.
The perimeter and taped joints add up to 190 linear feet of heavily applied joint compound which should be entirely removed by hand sanding. This seems an awful awful task. I think it would be less labor and overall an easier job to tear down the 320sf of ceiling and start again.
Is there another way out? New guy says because of porosity of the blueboard painting over it would require many coats and likely would still see difference between paint over just blueboard and paint over SJC.
Any suggestions other than tearing all down and starting again or sanding 190 linear feet would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy_L
New guy says the Blueboard and Sheetrock Joint Compound (SJC) are a mis-match. Blueboard made for plaster finish and if plaster applied now SJC will loose its bond because of the moisture content of the plaster. Only way to proceed is to sand off ALL the SJC, re-apply drywall compound at joints and screw holes and then plaster. I called USG and they confirmed... do not plaster over Blueboard/SJC.
The perimeter and taped joints add up to 190 linear feet of heavily applied joint compound which should be entirely removed by hand sanding. This seems an awful awful task. I think it would be less labor and overall an easier job to tear down the 320sf of ceiling and start again.
Is there another way out? New guy says because of porosity of the blueboard painting over it would require many coats and likely would still see difference between paint over just blueboard and paint over SJC.
Any suggestions other than tearing all down and starting again or sanding 190 linear feet would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy_L
#2
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What is your wall finish going to be? Are you doing some kind of plaster veneer?
Sanding the old stuff off would be pretty easy with a drywall sander. You can rent them at most rental places.
The pros will have more suggestions I'm sure.
What is your wall finish going to be? Are you doing some kind of plaster veneer?
Sanding the old stuff off would be pretty easy with a drywall sander. You can rent them at most rental places.
The pros will have more suggestions I'm sure.
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At this point I don't need the quality / hardness of a true plaster ceiling. I'm just looking for a way to proceed where I can end up with a good looking painted ceiling. Even if that means priming / painting a couple of times.
#4
If it was mine I'd double check for any flaws in the taping and patching, fix that first and just prime with Zinsser 123 and two coats of finish paint.
I've never had an issue painting over blue board.
I've never had an issue painting over blue board.
#5
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I agree with Joe. I have on rare occasion painted over blueboard that was finished like regular drywall and didn't have any issues with the paint job. If you skip the plaster veneer - you should be fine.
IMO, 1 coat primer and 1 coat finish is good enough for most ceilings.
IMO, 1 coat primer and 1 coat finish is good enough for most ceilings.
#6
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Your contrto remove it might be as eqactor and USG are right. If you intend to plaster it should be removed. To remove the Jc on the joints might be as easy as getting started pulling the tape off and continuing pulling.
Sanding will take care of the rest/\.
I concur with marksr and joecaption1 that it should paint just fine. Do a first class job taping and finishing then if you want to minimize the difference in suction between the veneer plaster base board and the taped and finished joints skim the whole lid. The somewhat greater suction in the blue board will actually let you skim and smooth it down a little better than ordinary drywall board in my opinion. You can camoflage the differences a bit more with some texture.
Everything I can think of sounds easier than taking the board off the ceiling.
Sanding will take care of the rest/\.
I concur with marksr and joecaption1 that it should paint just fine. Do a first class job taping and finishing then if you want to minimize the difference in suction between the veneer plaster base board and the taped and finished joints skim the whole lid. The somewhat greater suction in the blue board will actually let you skim and smooth it down a little better than ordinary drywall board in my opinion. You can camoflage the differences a bit more with some texture.
Everything I can think of sounds easier than taking the board off the ceiling.