Hello Everyone,

I am trying to install my house's baseboards after a couple of tries outsourcing the job. I keep getting better at it every day I do one but the reality is that takes time and knowledge of other areas. So, here I am trying to find answers from the experts.

I have attached a picture that shows the dilemma I am facing. I am using Pine baseboards which are difficult to bend and until I tried to install it I didn't realize that the drywall is not level up. Having said that, I only see two ways out:
1. Replace the piece of drywall
2. Use compound to try bring the drywall to level

Could you tell me if you see any other way to do this I am not seeing? What would be the best solution here?

I appreciate everyone's help. Rafael.

 

Assuming it will draw up a little when nailed, I'd just caulk it, paint and call it done.

 

I tried doing that but when I nailed one edge the second one won't go in without taking the nails out. I'm using nail guns.

The gap is bigger than it looks like in the picture.

 

What size nails are you using?

 

Make sure you are shooting nails into the studs and use at least 2 1/2" finish nails (16ga.). It should pull it in somewhat if you are hitting good wood. Then caulk and paint.

Alternates are you can take and make a series of 1/4" relief cuts vertically on the back of the board. It will narrow the actual width of the stock and make it easier to flex.

You can also scribe the drywall at the top of the molding with a utility knife. Pull the molding aside and shave the drywall some so that the molding will inset slightly into the wallboard.

You can also rummage through the stock at the store and find one that is bent in the direction that works for you and cut a new piece.

 

...also, start at the o/s mitred corner and work your way in to the butt @ the casing. The outside corner obviously has the stud so 3 pins there as well as 1 or 2 on the edges of the 2 at the mitre pinning both edges together. - Then pin the butt end at the casing. - Its looks like 1x5.. You could also use a piece of MDF there instead.. its more flexible...!

 

Those outside corners look way off. If you can get those tight just add base cap molding and the gap will be invisible.
Base Cap Moulding :: Architectural Moulding Profiles :: Tilo Industries

Walls are never perfectly flat or straight.
Drywallers almost always leave blobs in the bottoms of the outside corners, just knock them off with a putty knife.

 

...could be a lot of bace cap mouldings to cover all the base.. You could also extend the right base beyond the corner of the 'out of square' wall to meet the other. Once the tops are caulked filled and painted..all will be could. Ive had to do this hundreds of times..cos as joecap above said.. walls are seldom perfectly 'square' to each. Drywallers often dont bother being as 'technical' as finish carpenters Have to be...! Ive been doing this for Years...!!!

 

...anything new from the OP..?? - How'd it go..?!?!?

 

I really appreciate everyone's reponse and I apologize for my tadiness but work has occupied a lot of my time.

I like to moden look of the baseboard so I prefer not to terminate it with any base cap; although, I have to admit is a great idea. One problem that I find myself having is discovering the studs. Can someone recommend a good stud finder? I have a $20 one from Home Depot but it doesn't do the job. It is my understanding that in the perfect world each stud should be about 16" (or 19") apart from each other. A good stud finder is going to help me big time an ensure I put the nails straight into the stud. Also, I am not a pro like you guys. I am indeed using 2 1/2" finish nails (16ga.) with my super nail gun

I agree with you guys, it is frustrating to try to do something neat after such a bad finish. Nothing seems to be easy to do in a house. I'll try to do something this weekend and I'll post back to let you know how it went.

Thank you, guys....don't forget recommending a good stud finder.