Suspended ceiling grid
#1
10-15-13, 06:32 AM
Suspended ceiling grid
Hi all,
I'm trying to hang a suspended ceiling. Research online and talking to pros has me using main beams and 4' cross tees, besides the 2' cross tee sections (for 2x2 panels). Upon going to my local lumber yard with the measurements of the room, I was told that I only need the main beams, hanging every 2 feet, and the 2' cross tees, leaving out the 4' tees all together.
As I'm watching another DIY video, I can see the 4' sections pop in perpendicular to the main beams, whereas the 2' sections are parallel to the main beams. The way I was told at the lumber yard, the 2' sections are perpendicular to the main beams. Will that present a problem at all? Is this a case of six (of) one, half a dozen of the other?
TIA
I'm trying to hang a suspended ceiling. Research online and talking to pros has me using main beams and 4' cross tees, besides the 2' cross tee sections (for 2x2 panels). Upon going to my local lumber yard with the measurements of the room, I was told that I only need the main beams, hanging every 2 feet, and the 2' cross tees, leaving out the 4' tees all together.
As I'm watching another DIY video, I can see the 4' sections pop in perpendicular to the main beams, whereas the 2' sections are parallel to the main beams. The way I was told at the lumber yard, the 2' sections are perpendicular to the main beams. Will that present a problem at all? Is this a case of six (of) one, half a dozen of the other?
TIA
#2
10-15-13, 01:27 PM
Welcome to the forums! Sometimes local lumber yards and, yes, box stores don't have the most experienced people giving advice. By using main tees every 4', you save money right off the bat. In addition you will be gaining strength by crossing the main tees with 4' tees and then filling in the parallel sections for a 2x2 pattern with the 2' sections.
#3
10-15-13, 03:41 PM
Group Moderator
I agree with Larry and the "pros" you talked to. Main beam 4' apart, then divide everything into 4x4 with 4' tees, then divide the 4x4's into 2x4's with more 4' tees that are parallel with the main beam. Then 2' tees for everything else.
#4
10-15-13, 05:23 PM
Group Moderator
My father in law ran into the same thing at the big box. They told him to hang main runners every 2' since he was using 2x2 tiles. Not a good plan.
I have seen the pro's hang thousands of square feet of ceiling and it is done all the same. Mains 4' apart, 4' tees between the mains, 2' tees between the 4' tees to finish it out.
Just like Chandler and Sleeper describe.
I have seen the pro's hang thousands of square feet of ceiling and it is done all the same. Mains 4' apart, 4' tees between the mains, 2' tees between the 4' tees to finish it out.
Just like Chandler and Sleeper describe.
#5
10-16-13, 05:46 AM
Thank you all.
Are there significant differences in cost, easy of installation, or strength? They already delivered my supplies yesterday. Are the differences significant enough to warrant exchanging the parts now?
Are there significant differences in cost, easy of installation, or strength? They already delivered my supplies yesterday. Are the differences significant enough to warrant exchanging the parts now?
#6
10-16-13, 07:05 AM
Group Moderator
Likely the main runners will be more expensive than 4' tees, but how much I couldn't tell you.
Strength is not an issue as we described above, pro ceilings are installed with 4' tees
I think the biggest plus is ease of installation and the fact you can reconfigure the grid if you are installing 2x4 troffers.
Strength is not an issue as we described above, pro ceilings are installed with 4' tees
I think the biggest plus is ease of installation and the fact you can reconfigure the grid if you are installing 2x4 troffers.
#7
10-16-13, 04:08 PM
Group Moderator
If you have main beams every 2 ft, and you wire both of them in approximately the same locations, you will usually be cussing as you try and maneuver the 2x2 tiles into that center section, as they will be hitting wires as you try and put them into place. By placing main beams 4 ft apart, you don't have that problem.
Also, when you have the main beams 4 ft apart, and create a center section in the room that is 4x4, (or 8x8 in a larger room) you can measure the diagonals of that central square, and check that you have the grid square (not a parallelogram) and also at the same time check that it is centered in the room. Checking a 2x2 square isn't going to be very accurate... but depending what kind of tile you are using, dropping a few tiles into place will probably help square it up as well.
It will probably "work" the way you have it, but I would advise you to maybe stagger your main beam wires so that they don't line up with one another (alternate joists / not on the same joist).
Also, when you have the main beams 4 ft apart, and create a center section in the room that is 4x4, (or 8x8 in a larger room) you can measure the diagonals of that central square, and check that you have the grid square (not a parallelogram) and also at the same time check that it is centered in the room. Checking a 2x2 square isn't going to be very accurate... but depending what kind of tile you are using, dropping a few tiles into place will probably help square it up as well.
It will probably "work" the way you have it, but I would advise you to maybe stagger your main beam wires so that they don't line up with one another (alternate joists / not on the same joist).
#8
10-26-13, 12:12 PM
I ended up returning some main beams and 2 footers, and getting 4 footers to do it right. It worked very well. The whole ceiling came out beautifully.
Thanks for the advice. For my next project I'll know to check in here first.
Thanks for the advice. For my next project I'll know to check in here first.
