Hanging drywall for the first time.
#1
10-29-13, 09:36 PM
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Hanging drywall for the first time.
I've always been decent building with my hands. Redoing walls, putting up wood paneling, installing custom electrical (to code), etc. However, i've never put up drywall and lucky me my first time will be not only on a ceiling but doing it solo. So after watching many DIY video's, i've come down to having two questions.
1) I saw some professional's from a HomeDepot video say you must use liquid nail. Their reasoning is that over time gravity will reveal the screw's and it'll look bad. I've also read that this is overkill and if done right you won't have this problem. Which is it? I've read reasons for not doing so (replacement issues), and reasons to do it. Some contractors say it's required, some say it's not. But does it really matter? Does it make that much of a difference?
-- Followup to this question: The beams are metal studs. So even if liquid nail is added help would it even work on the metal beams? I've always had the impression that liquid nail is for wood-to-anything but metal surface.
2) As mentioned prior, I will be doing this solo. I probably could call a buddy to come over but because of time constraints and scheduling it would just be easier to do it solo. Lol ... "easier." Anyways, after watching many DIY videos of people putting up sheetrock by themselves they always create devices to help them, most of them using one or more T's. This one guy just held the whole thing up with one arm and his head. But ever video was the same. They all had great difficulty and rightfully so. Putting up drywall by yourself isn't easy. Anyways... so here is my question. Why not cut the 4x8 drywall into 4x4's? With the studs being 2 feet (center) spaced apart, then why not? Sure there would be more taping but wouldn't it make doing it all solo easier?
1) I saw some professional's from a HomeDepot video say you must use liquid nail. Their reasoning is that over time gravity will reveal the screw's and it'll look bad. I've also read that this is overkill and if done right you won't have this problem. Which is it? I've read reasons for not doing so (replacement issues), and reasons to do it. Some contractors say it's required, some say it's not. But does it really matter? Does it make that much of a difference?
-- Followup to this question: The beams are metal studs. So even if liquid nail is added help would it even work on the metal beams? I've always had the impression that liquid nail is for wood-to-anything but metal surface.
2) As mentioned prior, I will be doing this solo. I probably could call a buddy to come over but because of time constraints and scheduling it would just be easier to do it solo. Lol ... "easier." Anyways, after watching many DIY videos of people putting up sheetrock by themselves they always create devices to help them, most of them using one or more T's. This one guy just held the whole thing up with one arm and his head. But ever video was the same. They all had great difficulty and rightfully so. Putting up drywall by yourself isn't easy. Anyways... so here is my question. Why not cut the 4x8 drywall into 4x4's? With the studs being 2 feet (center) spaced apart, then why not? Sure there would be more taping but wouldn't it make doing it all solo easier?
#2
10-29-13, 09:41 PM
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Welcome to the forums.
Bite the bullet Thomas. Don't cut the sheets in half..... get help. Metal studs don't allow for much of a seam and you certainly don't want to create any more seams than absolutely needed.
I've never glued sheetrock to the ceiling because I only use screws. If I'm not mistaken you glue the rock if you plan to use nails.
Bite the bullet Thomas. Don't cut the sheets in half..... get help. Metal studs don't allow for much of a seam and you certainly don't want to create any more seams than absolutely needed.
I've never glued sheetrock to the ceiling because I only use screws. If I'm not mistaken you glue the rock if you plan to use nails.
#3
10-29-13, 10:10 PM
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I am not a builder and I have never heard or read of using adhesive on ceiling drywall. Rent a drywall lift and you can do it by yourself. It WON'T be easy but it can be done. Use the proper screws for metal studs, fine thread rather than coarse and follow the instructions concerning screw spacing.
Do NOT cut into smaller panels. Taping is at best a pain in the rear and taping butt joints is more difficult than taping tapered joints.
Do NOT cut into smaller panels. Taping is at best a pain in the rear and taping butt joints is more difficult than taping tapered joints.
#4
10-30-13, 12:54 AM
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Hey guys, thanks for responding. The Home Depot guy I was talking about saying you need to use adhesive is here:
How to Hang Drywall Ceilings - YouTube
Asking a friend to help is going to be a problem. The only one that I think would have any knowledge or skill to help has very limited availability. The rest of my friends are... well... not someone I would trust with more than a paintbrush. I like the tip about fine thread instead of course. I didn't think about that.
I love the tip about renting a drywall lift. I didn't even know they had such a thing! I saw Home Depot rents them out at about $30 a day. Funny, all the guys that built their own rig out of wood to hold it up would have cost $30 in wood.
How to Hang Drywall Ceilings - YouTube
Asking a friend to help is going to be a problem. The only one that I think would have any knowledge or skill to help has very limited availability. The rest of my friends are... well... not someone I would trust with more than a paintbrush. I like the tip about fine thread instead of course. I didn't think about that.
I love the tip about renting a drywall lift. I didn't even know they had such a thing! I saw Home Depot rents them out at about $30 a day. Funny, all the guys that built their own rig out of wood to hold it up would have cost $30 in wood.
#5
10-30-13, 03:44 AM
I've never used a drywall lift but I'm sure if you have much to hang solo - that's the way to go!
A T shaped prop shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. The ones I have made were just a 2x4 leg with another 2x4 turned sideways on the top. You want the entire set up to be about an inch shorter than the ceiling height. Works good once you get the hang of it ..... providing you are still young and fit - not old and wore out
Your help doesn't need to be highly skilled. As long as they can hold the board in place while you screw it - that's all you need
A T shaped prop shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. The ones I have made were just a 2x4 leg with another 2x4 turned sideways on the top. You want the entire set up to be about an inch shorter than the ceiling height. Works good once you get the hang of it ..... providing you are still young and fit - not old and wore out
Your help doesn't need to be highly skilled. As long as they can hold the board in place while you screw it - that's all you need
#6
10-30-13, 05:56 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
A drywall lift is the only way to go when hanging a ceiling.
For those of you that have never used one try it next time, you'll never go back to the old way and your back and arms will thank you.
With a lift you can hang 12' sheets solo if need be. (far better with two people to load it)
The drywall glue will help a lot to prevent screw pops and sagging.
It's drywall adhesive not construction adhesive, it's thinner in consistency.
Make sure your hitting the joist, screws in just drywall to drywall will do nothing.
Lay the ceiling out first to make sure you do not end up with a narrow piece on the end of the row.
Offset the end seams.
Use paper not webbed tape.
Do not have any gaps!
The row in the first sheets needs to be 100% straight, if not the rest will be off. A simple caulk line will work as a guide.
For those of you that have never used one try it next time, you'll never go back to the old way and your back and arms will thank you.
With a lift you can hang 12' sheets solo if need be. (far better with two people to load it)
The drywall glue will help a lot to prevent screw pops and sagging.
It's drywall adhesive not construction adhesive, it's thinner in consistency.
Make sure your hitting the joist, screws in just drywall to drywall will do nothing.
Lay the ceiling out first to make sure you do not end up with a narrow piece on the end of the row.
Offset the end seams.
Use paper not webbed tape.
Do not have any gaps!
The row in the first sheets needs to be 100% straight, if not the rest will be off. A simple caulk line will work as a guide.
#7
10-30-13, 09:07 AM
Group Moderator
Also keep in mind that with 24" OC structure, you're going to need 5/8" rock - that is heavy stuff.
A couple T braces made from 2x4 would help you out quite a bit if you don't want to rent a lift (the lift is definitely better).
Also, I think Joe meant CHALK line, not CAULK line.
A couple T braces made from 2x4 would help you out quite a bit if you don't want to rent a lift (the lift is definitely better).
Also, I think Joe meant CHALK line, not CAULK line.
#8
10-30-13, 07:17 PM
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If i placed the studs 16" apart instead of 24" would 1/2" drywall be ok? I just assumed to put the studs at 24", i'm not sure which is better.
#9
10-30-13, 09:36 PM
Group Moderator
Studs on 16" centers is always better and especially on the ceiling. 1/2" drywall would be ok on 16" spacing.... that would be a normal application.
In that video....they are attaching to wood beams... not metal. One of the guys in the video says if you don't glue it you'll get nailpops from screws and nails.
Nails yes.... screws no. I've never had a screwed in ceiling pop.
I'm not sure I would glue to metal studs. I've never seen it done commercially but I'll let the carpenters handle that one.
In that video....they are attaching to wood beams... not metal. One of the guys in the video says if you don't glue it you'll get nailpops from screws and nails.
Nails yes.... screws no. I've never had a screwed in ceiling pop.
I'm not sure I would glue to metal studs. I've never seen it done commercially but I'll let the carpenters handle that one.
#10
10-31-13, 04:04 AM
I like to preset nails around the perimeter of the drywall, that way once you have the drywall up against the ceiling joists you can quickly secure it. Then go back and screw the rest of it. The tape coat will help prevent any nail pops along the perimeter.
#11
10-31-13, 07:32 AM
I just made some notes as I read the thread. I'm a contractor, not a pro drywaller.
Ceiling first and then lift the walls up tight to prevent sagging over the gap.
Remove burrs from any cut pieces (but ends) and I like to angle the edge back to allow room for the mud to push into the space. Think v-notch. There is a tool for this, a rasp.
New construction of remodel and how large a project?
What is in the ceiling you are attaching to, wood joists or trusses?
Will it be an 8' ceiling? You will need some short horses and good planks or other way to make you 7' tall. Remember, taping will need those horses as well. Make them safe.
As stated, absolutely a lift. With a few tricks one person can do the job easily.
As Joe said, preplan the job. Often some 12' pieces will reduce the number of seams. Although taping looks easy, it is really the more difficult task to get a good looking job.
Are you going to measure and cut for electrical? Or use a rotozip?
Any wiring or plumbing within 1.5" will need a nail plate.
Wiring through those metal studs requires bushings or conduit and single conductors.
There are all kinds of considerations for insulation and air sealing that need to be in place before the drywall.
If there is a long way to carry the new drywall, consider having it delivered, like second floor through a window.
Vapor barrier or not, don't know what climate you have.
Bud
Ceiling first and then lift the walls up tight to prevent sagging over the gap.
Remove burrs from any cut pieces (but ends) and I like to angle the edge back to allow room for the mud to push into the space. Think v-notch. There is a tool for this, a rasp.
New construction of remodel and how large a project?
What is in the ceiling you are attaching to, wood joists or trusses?
Will it be an 8' ceiling? You will need some short horses and good planks or other way to make you 7' tall. Remember, taping will need those horses as well. Make them safe.
As stated, absolutely a lift. With a few tricks one person can do the job easily.
As Joe said, preplan the job. Often some 12' pieces will reduce the number of seams. Although taping looks easy, it is really the more difficult task to get a good looking job.
Are you going to measure and cut for electrical? Or use a rotozip?
Any wiring or plumbing within 1.5" will need a nail plate.
Wiring through those metal studs requires bushings or conduit and single conductors.
There are all kinds of considerations for insulation and air sealing that need to be in place before the drywall.
If there is a long way to carry the new drywall, consider having it delivered, like second floor through a window.
Vapor barrier or not, don't know what climate you have.
Bud
#12
10-31-13, 10:48 AM
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Bud:
This is a remodel of a poorly done job making an add-on room. Essentially they made an enclosed patio with insulated walls and roof, leaving the thin steel roof used for the patio is the main roof. After 30 years there was about 30 leaks. Horrible. You name it, I found it. Rat droppings and rat burrows in the insulation, piled of roach droppings, mold. Terrible. I ripped it all out. All that is left is the steel roof and its steel beams, and the walls with their insulation.
The ceiling is 8' tall with steel studs that will be 24" apart. I have a few horses of my own from projects i've done in the past (i.e. building our deck and gazebo).
As far as lighting I was going to prewire for 8 Remodel Housing recess lighting fixtures. I have a websites that's already told me where to place the wiring down to the exact inch. Once fully wired with plenty of excess for installing the lights, i'll put up the sheetrock and then rotozip the holes out.
Way ahead of you on the conduit's. I'll be using a non-metalic liquid tight conduit for the whole thing.
AFC Cable Systems 1/2 in. x 25 ft. Non-Metallic Liquidtight Conduit-6002-22-00 at The Home Depot
For insulation I already have the covered.
I have a truck which I planned on using to transport the drywall but since i'm going to need 9 sheets it will probably be best to have it delivered. Good idea.
I live in Houston, Tx so there will be a vapor barrier.
This is a remodel of a poorly done job making an add-on room. Essentially they made an enclosed patio with insulated walls and roof, leaving the thin steel roof used for the patio is the main roof. After 30 years there was about 30 leaks. Horrible. You name it, I found it. Rat droppings and rat burrows in the insulation, piled of roach droppings, mold. Terrible. I ripped it all out. All that is left is the steel roof and its steel beams, and the walls with their insulation.
The ceiling is 8' tall with steel studs that will be 24" apart. I have a few horses of my own from projects i've done in the past (i.e. building our deck and gazebo).
As far as lighting I was going to prewire for 8 Remodel Housing recess lighting fixtures. I have a websites that's already told me where to place the wiring down to the exact inch. Once fully wired with plenty of excess for installing the lights, i'll put up the sheetrock and then rotozip the holes out.
Way ahead of you on the conduit's. I'll be using a non-metalic liquid tight conduit for the whole thing.
AFC Cable Systems 1/2 in. x 25 ft. Non-Metallic Liquidtight Conduit-6002-22-00 at The Home Depot
For insulation I already have the covered.
I have a truck which I planned on using to transport the drywall but since i'm going to need 9 sheets it will probably be best to have it delivered. Good idea.
I live in Houston, Tx so there will be a vapor barrier.
