First Remodel - looks like the sheet rock guys messed up - advice please
#1
03-02-14, 07:08 AM
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First Remodel - looks like the sheet rock guys messed up - advice please
Doing my first remodel. The sheet rock company that my GC brought in hung, mudded and sanded. They left it ready for paint (or so they thought). So, I purchased Benjamin Moore primers and paints. After two coats of primer and two coats of paint we have remnants that look like this.
Is this even in the realm of acceptable? How would you handle this with a GC?
(Final payment has not been made).
Is this even in the realm of acceptable? How would you handle this with a GC?
(Final payment has not been made).
#2
03-02-14, 07:13 AM
Group Moderator
Don't know why you would continue painting over something that looked like that. Email the pics to the GC and let him know his drywallers suck and that you'd like another finisher to come fix their screw ups. And that you'll be happy to submit final payment upon completion.
#3
03-02-14, 07:20 AM
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Here's another wall.
Do these areas need to be re-sheetrocked or can this be fixed with sanding and mud?
Do these areas need to be re-sheetrocked or can this be fixed with sanding and mud?
#4
03-02-14, 07:33 AM
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It's pretty hard to sand down drywall mud that has been painted, which is why the painting should have stopped after the first coat of primer, when the rough edges first became obvious. It can probably all be fixed with additional skim coats, though.
All repaired areas will need to be primed and the entire wall (not just the repair) will probably require 2 more coats of paint.
All repaired areas will need to be primed and the entire wall (not just the repair) will probably require 2 more coats of paint.
#5
03-02-14, 07:51 AM
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Can this be fixed by professionals through sanding / texturing or is this a complete drywall replacement due to the ridges?
#6
03-02-14, 08:27 AM
Group Moderator
Sorry, let me repeat what I just said if you missed it.
The drywall does not need to be replaced. Texturing the walls would be an unnecessary expense. Texturing alone also does not hide a shoddy job of finishing. Sanding through paint is generally not possible. But they CAN feather the walls with additional skim coats and sand that new mud until it is smooth.
It can probably all be fixed with additional skim coats.
#7
03-02-14, 08:31 AM
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Thanks XSleeper - yes I did miss that. Bit overwhelmed. I will proceed with asking for additional skim coats.
#8
03-02-14, 08:40 AM
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Glad to help. Sorry you are having such trouble. It's hard to find a good drywaller/finisher that you don't have to babysit.
#9
03-02-14, 08:45 AM
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Drywall fix
Michael, Unfortunately(?) the screen images I am seeing do not show any serious drywall problems. Could be the glare created by the paint sheen. To me the latter two words are perhaps the main cause for your concerns. When I am not doing home improvement, I retail paint and I always caution my customers about the level of sheen they choose, as the more gloss introduced on a wall the more often the tiniest of imperfections will be highlighted. Short walls such as one would find in bathrooms are okay as reflective space is limited. Most walls in residences should be either eggshell or the newer mattes. The roughness around the electrical box is usually covered by the device plate(perhaps oversize when needed) and drywall finishers are in tune to that thus do not spend time to make it pretty. I agree with the statement whereas one should quit the painting after the 1st coat of primer if problems arise. As in autobody work, this is the point at which any repairs needed are made to the subsurface. If, by chance, you did not notice the problems, you now see, after the priming, recall my comment about finishing with a low sheen product. Your situation as you may see it, is easily cured. The question becomes: by whom. Good luck
#10
03-02-14, 09:32 AM
Welcome to the forums, Hardwaremike. Hate to disagree somewhat, but that finish job sucks. I do not like to finish sheetrock, but when I do, I don't leave glaring seams like this. The finishers are to "finish" the wall ,including around receptacles and switches. No excuse. I do agree, however, that a less glaring paint is in order and would smooth things out better. I don't paint, either. Thanks for the input, and bringing up the paint finish matter.
#11
03-02-14, 09:37 AM
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Hello Mike,
These sheens are all eggshell which is one notch above matte (then flat). The photos are takes at a reflective point on the wall to highlight the problems. The seams protrude from the walls so that if you take a level, the seam is the widest point on the wall.
These sheens are all eggshell which is one notch above matte (then flat). The photos are takes at a reflective point on the wall to highlight the problems. The seams protrude from the walls so that if you take a level, the seam is the widest point on the wall.
#12
03-02-14, 09:58 AM
Super Moderator
I'm no Pro...but I think even I could do a better job than what I see in a few of the shots. Looks like they either didn't sand well, or didn't extend the mud out enough on the 2nd or 3rd coat.
The work around the boxes is just horrendous IMO. No way the plate will cover it.
The work around the boxes is just horrendous IMO. No way the plate will cover it.
#13
03-02-14, 10:11 AM
I'm no Pro...but I think even I could do a better job than what I see in a few of the shots
Mike. If a level rocks over the seams, it needs skimming and refinishing to taper those spots.
#14
03-02-14, 10:20 AM
Super Moderator
No problem Larry...
Like Harry said...."A man's got to know his limitations". REAL Pro quality work is one of mine.
Like Harry said...."A man's got to know his limitations". REAL Pro quality work is one of mine.
#15
03-02-14, 10:24 AM
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In evening out the sloppy details, will standard drywall mud work or is a special compound needed because of the painting?
#16
03-02-14, 10:32 AM
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At this point you might consider buying a belt or vibrating sander and do the work yourself. Hold back final payment or reduced payment to the GC. However, and this is important, allow the GC to come in and make it right. If he can't or refuses then you have legal standing to not pay him.
#17
03-02-14, 11:26 AM
A scuff sanding should be done to help the j/c adhere well but as the others have stated - it can all be fixed by expertly adding more j/c and a little finish sanding. A coat of wet primer will almost always highlight any defects in the finish, it's best to remember where those areas are and fix them before adding more paint! The more sheen paint has the more it will highlight defects but any builder worth his salt shouldn't have any issues with bringing back the finisher to straighten it out.
Latex paint doesn't sand well and heat generated by an electric sander will gum up the sandpaper in short order. It's normally easier/better to add more j/c and then sand it.
Latex paint doesn't sand well and heat generated by an electric sander will gum up the sandpaper in short order. It's normally easier/better to add more j/c and then sand it.
#20
03-03-14, 05:14 AM
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If I point this out to my contractor and he replies that it is permissible to have some waves in the dry wall, is this a reason I can withhold payment? How about legally? I really don't understand what I can demand as a finished product.
Here is a link to the Florida Drywall Code:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Flori...%20Plaster.pdf
Here is a link to the Florida Drywall Code:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Flori...%20Plaster.pdf
#21
03-03-14, 05:19 AM
I didn't take the time to read the code but I'm sure it addresses structure and not aesthetics. A badly finished job covers the framing just like a nice job does. I can't imagine any decent contractor not being willing to fix the bad finishing you've shown in your pics!
Discrepancies in the framing can cause bows/waves in the drywall but that isn't what your pics show, they indicate a poor finishing job.
Discrepancies in the framing can cause bows/waves in the drywall but that isn't what your pics show, they indicate a poor finishing job.
#23
03-03-14, 05:58 AM
Have you paid him in full yet? that is your most effective recourse! As a customer you have the right to expect a job done to industry standards and that finish job isn't what I'd call acceptable.
If you've already paid and the contractor isn't willing to come back you could take him to small claims court but the expense/hassle might not be worth it.
If you've already paid and the contractor isn't willing to come back you could take him to small claims court but the expense/hassle might not be worth it.
#25
03-03-14, 06:09 AM
Then hold him to it! It's not like you are being unreasonable - I have had customers that pointed out defects that could only be seen at certain times of day under certain lighting conditions with your head at the right angle/height 
Your pics show poor finishing that a pro would have spotted prior to the primer being applied. Since you supplied the paint/labor don't expect any help on that BUT the GC shouldn't have any issue with bringing back the finisher [or a different one] to make it right!
Your pics show poor finishing that a pro would have spotted prior to the primer being applied. Since you supplied the paint/labor don't expect any help on that BUT the GC shouldn't have any issue with bringing back the finisher [or a different one] to make it right!
#26
03-03-14, 03:44 PM
Member
One last thought about payment. If for some reason you become indimidated and he "convinces" you that he can't or won't fix it, and you're afraid of your credit being jepordized, then write a check out to him for the payment but inscribe on the front that payment is in protest. That will still give you legal standing.
However, after all is said and done I think Marksr is correct and the GC will make it right. After all its in his best interest. I suspect your fears might be getting the best of you. Let us know what the GC says when you talk to him.
However, after all is said and done I think Marksr is correct and the GC will make it right. After all its in his best interest. I suspect your fears might be getting the best of you. Let us know what the GC says when you talk to him.
#27
03-03-14, 04:25 PM
Super Moderator
A bad rep is the hardest thing to repair. If the GC is reputable...he'll make it right and never use the original sheetrock finishers again w/o inspecting their work.
#28
03-05-14, 02:10 PM
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So, the best advice was to feather out the ridges with joint compound. The walls look great now.
Feathered
Sanded
Primed
Painted
All gone
Feathered
Sanded
Primed
Painted
All gone
