I think I'm going to need to get access to the inside of an exterior wall to move a phone junction block, it is buried in there. Originally the basement was unfinished but we had the laundry room somewhat finished (it is in the lower level of a trilevel, so we do have the half foundation wall, we had the wood part drywalled only). I do have a drop ceiling I did myself and I want to stay below that. So I want to remove about a 2ft by 3ft section, I know there will be a plastic barrier sheet to contend with as well, and insulation under that.
So is there a way to just cut the drywall, then I assume I will need to cut the barrier sheet to get through the insulation, then tape that up after i am done? I need to get to the phone junction and get it up, probably attach it to a joist. It is all pretty hokey how it was all done, but I take part of the blame (locating the junction block that low, then never moving it before we had the walls drywalled. I can give the drywaller some credit too for not catching it.

Main question is how to open up the drywall, will a utility knife work? I'd like to save the drywall if I can but no biggie if I need to buy some more.

 

Why such a big hole? usually electricians will make the smallest hole possible that is needed to get their right angle drill or their flexible bit into the wall. They might make several small holes as needed. a 2x3 ft hole seems like overkill for a little tiny phone wire.

But you must have a reason... I'd probably mark the line and cut it out with a jab saw (like a keyhole saw for drywall). Save the piece, you can insert some 1x4 behind the joint and screw it to the perimeter, then put your cut out piece right back on.

 

A utility knife will work but a drywall/jab saw is quicker. I like to make my first cut with a utility knife and then switch to the drywall saw. The knife cut makes for a nice guide and a slightly cleaner cut edge. Reinstall like stated above, I have used 1xs, 2xs and even plywood - whatever was handy.

 

Just a rhetorical question, but any chance that all of the wires come in from the top of the wall, so that you can remove the outside ceiling in that area and see all of the affected wires? Not sure why you said that you want to stay below that, but if you can see all of the wires you could tie them back together up there, forget about what is buried, and not touch the wall.

 

Yeah it's a real can of worms. Got the camera out and took a couple pics for this thread and another one (things are really piling up on me, this is related to a phone thread I have and also a question about concrete repair later this year I think. But also painting a room, replacing a computer, list goes on and on this year, LOL)
Anyways, I think my phone problem is actually going to be outside the house. But the phone wiring I realy should get straightened out. I have had problems in the past, and now I messed with it some more and really finding a can of worms. I was in the top of the drywall (see pic on top where there is a corner broken off). The board (don't know proper term but it's I guess the sheathing of the house, the OSB panel) SEEMS wet, it could be just COLD, but also seems damp. NOTE the torn plastic sheet, that was also like that. Reason for all this is the ppl who drywalled the room (a furnace and laundry room) put the drywall right over the phone wire. This is a large sheet, what I think is a 4X8 sheet running long side horizontal. But I am to blame for the breaking part, to get the wire loose. And the sheet not being reattached and/or taped up. I am now hoping this might be the reason for the dampness. Not only furnace, not only laundry and a utility sink, but this is also the north side of the house, so probably the coldest wall. It is above the drop ceiling but I don't imagine that would matter, it will still be warm, possibly even humid, and now no plastic to keep this all away from a very cold wall, so probably got a bit frosty up there. All make sense (trying to think like Mike Holmes, LOL)?
So I want to open it up to inspect it all, get the phone junction out (I can't reach it from the top and I'm sure I screwed it down anyways), get it out of that area, then if I am lucky all I need to do is repair the plastic sheet and put the drywall back on (I'll be sure to do something to repair the broken corner, probably buy a 1/2 sheet or something.
To get around the drop ceiling frame, I will plan on making a horizontal cut just below the frame so i can install an unbroken piece in that area.
Hope the pics help you guys figure out my problem.

 

The wire you see more to the left is for a sensor for our Aprilaire.
So I am generally between that wire and the fuse panel. Second pic you can see the plastic sheet and also the phone wires.
I will get this down to just 2 lines for the phone in the house. We only need 2 now, there was more like 4 when we built the house.
Eventually we might drop even having a landline, for now we still need it, mainly so my mother in law can call us, she is in town and just a local call. Our cells would be long distance for her (she doesn't have a cell).

 

You may not want to do this but for others reading this thread it is always best to run individual telephone cables from each jack back to t a central location where the individual wires are connected to a "punch down" block. This then allows for extreme versatility in configuring all the various jacks to multiple "outside" lines and also for re-configuration is any particular cable is partially damaged.

 

I think what I did was what you are describing, there is a terminal block (not sure what a punchdown block is) behind the drywall. I think I put it there before they even insulated the wall. You can see a few phone wires coming out of the top of the panel, these go down the wall to a terminal block.

 

Drywall inspections are only required for gypsum board shearwalls and garage separations. There are several type of drywall inspection like drywall screw inspection, drywall nail inspection etc.