Options for attaching shelf uprights to crooked stud.

I'm putting some Rubbermaid Twin Track shelf hardware up in my garage. The total span is 6 feet, and I'm going to attach the uprights to every stud (16" centers), so I'll have 6 uprights. Because the garage is drywalled, I'm first going to attach a 1x4 to the wall, so the metal upright will bear on wood and not drywall. The problem I ran into is that one of the studs is crooked (not perfectly vertical), so I can't hit dead center for all the screws in the upright if the upright is perfectly vertical. The offset is maybe 3/4" from top to bottom of the upright. So, my idea was to 1) set the upright very slightly off vertical (not noticeable) to match the angle of the stud, and 2) position the upright so that I hit dead center with the screws near the middle of the upright, and then angle the top and bottom screws slightly so that theses screw will pass through the center of the stud. If you can visualize this, the screw may enter the stud maybe 3/8" from the edge, but the slight angle will make it end up near the center. Yes, I know it's not uncommon for people to miss the center of the stud and be that close to the edge, but I thought it would be better to angle it slightly. Thoughts and ideas?

 

If you are attaching 1x4 before the hardware, there's no reason for the hardware to be anything other than perfectly vertical. If the 1x4 is slightly off vertical, no big deal since it will still be solidly anchored and the the hardware will be solidly anchored to it.

Btw, I've never had an issues screwing directly to the sheetrock with no wood on top. The upper screws are the most important since the weight on the shelves is mostly down.

If the stud is bowed in the center, I'd just try to get as much meat under the screws as possible, dead center or 3/8 from the edge.

I think trying to angle the screws will pull your hardware to the side.

 

Thanks for the tips, Gunguy45!

 

Eh, well I took another look and the stud wasn't as crooked as I first thought. It's actually just bowed so I think I can work around it. So, last night I'm putting it up and hit a nail plate. Opening the wall a little I see the copper overflow drain for the water heater. So, I gotta move the screw location, again. So now I'm checking the entire wall with my detector, for other stuff.